IC40 Doesn't seem to be producing

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File a warranty claim citing a failed temperature sensor.

By citing the temperature sensor, they're not going to worry about phosphates unless they claim that phosphates affect the thermistor.
 
James,

I was under the impression that the cold water sensor was inside the cell and different from the thermistor in the flow switch.. Is that correct or not???

Either way, I like your idea of reporting the cell for not working due to the cold water light and eliminating the phosphate excuses...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Torrente said:
In my case the tap water is CH=50, TA=50, pH=7.3 but I only use it on the dry season during the rest of the year I drain pool water due to rain. In this case what would be the recommended CSI range?

Thank you!
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between -0.3 and 0.0 for a gunite pool with SWCG.
 
Spoke w/Pentair and they report that the reason I'm seeing the "off" light is due to the fact that I'm watching it right after the pumps turn on and theres a setting to not turn on IC for 5 minutes after pumps have been turned on. Been monitoring and haven't seen "off" light on during normal operation.

I do have one more thing to throw out there and I'd like some opinions. Depending on the test method and based on how much salt I added I think my salt level is between 2850 and 3100. I've used two digital testers, a strip and pool store and this is the range I'm in. The IC40 reports anywhere from 3650-3950 depending on the day. Manual suggests 3600. Manual also states the IC reading could be off +/-400-500 (can't remember exactly).

Should I toss another bag of salt in? Also, I'm losing about 1 FC per day in this hot Vegas sun, so it's producing, just not as much as it should be based on prior three seasons.

Thanks!
 
Pressing and holding the “More” button launches the System Status Mode. When the lights finish scrolling, the percent lights indicate hours of usage in 1,000s. For example, if the 40% light lights, that indicates 4,000 hours.

Version 3.1 on adds the ability to determine system temperature. Pressing the “More” button after the display shows 1,000s of hours of usage, will show temperature as follows:

Lights…………….....………Temperature
No LEDs………….…..………Below 30F
40%..........................36 to 45F
40% and 60%............46 to 55F
60%..........................56 to 65F
60% and 80%............66 to 75F
80%.........................76 to 85F
80 and 100%............86 to 95F
100%.......................96 to 99F
100% blinking……..….over 99F
All LEDs blinking……...Sensor bad
 
QingGuy said:
Spoke w/Pentair and they report that the reason I'm seeing the "off" light is due to the fact that I'm watching it right after the pumps turn on and theres a setting to not turn on IC for 5 minutes after pumps have been turned on. Been monitoring and haven't seen "off" light on during normal operation.

I do have one more thing to throw out there and I'd like some opinions. Depending on the test method and based on how much salt I added I think my salt level is between 2850 and 3100. I've used two digital testers, a strip and pool store and this is the range I'm in. The IC40 reports anywhere from 3650-3950 depending on the day. Manual suggests 3600. Manual also states the IC reading could be off +/-400-500 (can't remember exactly).

Should I toss another bag of salt in? Also, I'm losing about 1 FC per day in this hot Vegas sun, so it's producing, just not as much as it should be based on prior three seasons.

Thanks!
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Salt testing is not very accurate and different methods give different results. As long as the cell does not show low salt it is happy and generating.

Throwing a 40 lb bag of salt in will raise your salt 150 - 200 ppm. Cant hurt and will make no visible difference.
 
I suspect that the temperature reading is too low. That would explain why the Cold Water light goes on when the water temperature is actually ok.

It can also explain why the salinity is reading too high.
 

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JamesW said:
I suspect that the temperature reading is too low. That would explain why the Cold Water light goes on when the water temperature is actually ok.

It can also explain why the salinity is reading too high.
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Can you confirm the temp probe is part of the flow switch assembly that is replaceable? Or is it in the cell and not repairable?
 
Added a bag of salt yesterday. During the day (108 degrees here in Vegas), 5 people in pool for 3 hours and it maintained the FC level, no loss. Ran pump overnight from 9:00 p.m. - 6:00 a.m., tested around 5:45 a.m. and gained .5 FC. Seems low to only gain .5 running 9 hours with no sun. IC40 was at 100%.

Current numbers:
FC - 6
CC - .5
pH - 7.5
TA - 70
CYA - 80
 
JamesW said:
Check cell temperature as described.

Check chlorinator diagnostics to see what that shows.
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Not sure if I did this right. Held "more" button down, after all lights stopped flashing this is what remained lit prior to going back to regular mode. I also recorded it so you could see the entire process as I'm not sure I did it correctly. Video is here - https://youtu.be/PIocFv4j3YI

IC40_Troubleshoot.jpg
 
JamesW said:
Ok, you did that part correctly. That shows cell hours. However, immediately after the cell hours shows, you need to press the More button again to show cell temperature.
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I follow you now, sorry I didn't catch to press it again. If I'm reading this correctly I'm getting 100% flashing which is IC40 Temp Sensor is bad. Correct? - Here's the video of the second part of the diagnostics - https://youtu.be/uvXGTPEX8xg
 
Correct, it's a bad temperature sensor.

I suspect that the sensor began to drift low causing the Cold water shutoff.

If the sensor data goes outside certain limits, the software assumes that the sensor has failed and ignores the sensor.

When the software assumes that the sensor has failed, it uses a temperature of about 75 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit as the default temperature.

The sensor data is probably fluctuating on the border of low and out of bounds
 
I'm back! Pentair sent me a flow switch/sensor no charge due to the fact that my unit was just out of warranty. Got it replaced last night, everything seems to be working correctly, however, I ran a test over night and from when I took my test at 9:00 p.m. and 6:30 a.m. my FC had only gone-up .5. I figure I lose about .5 overnight so I'm guessing it generated about 1. FC in just over 9 hours with no sun on water. Does that sound about right?

Here are my numbers from the test I did this morning:
FC 4
pH 8 (lowered to 7.6 after this test)
TA 80
CYA 80
CH 350-400

Any thoughts? At this rate it will never keep-up with the Vegas sun burning off the chlorine. Prior years no problem at all, in-fact if memory serves me correctly I only ran the system at 60%, I ran at 80% last night.

Cell looks great, clean, all lights green etc. Also, I don't over clean the one time I do a year. I use recommended ration of acid:water from Pentair. Everything looks good.
 

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