Ic40 always reads about 400ppm low

MCF50

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2020
192
Houston
So at what point does the IC40 stop making chlorine? I don't to add salt when it is reading 2800ppm (low salt) when I know I have 32-3300ppm of salt. Thanks! Also, normal to have to add salt after 2-3 heavy rains??
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
34,605
Laughlin, NV
Low salt concentration below 2600 ppm will cause the unit to turn of.
Overflow due to rain will cause salinity to fall. Rain water will also sit on the surface of your pool such that the IC, if initiated at pump start up, could be seeing a lower level salinity than the bulk pool water.
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
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Jul 7, 2014
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Bedford, TX
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You have to make the cell happy.. It does not matter what the actual salt level is, it only matters what the cell thinks the salt level is..

The manual says the tolerance is +/- 500 ppm..

The only fix is to replace the flow switch assembly.. Maybe you will get one that is closer, but maybe not..

If your cell is out of warranty you can take the thermistor out of the circuit and add an additional water temp probe in its place..

Temp probe hack.jpg


Thanks,

Jim R.
 

setsailsoon

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TFP Guide
Oct 25, 2015
3,800
Stuart/FL
Pool Size
12800
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-30 Plus
Another option is to just get a K 1766 test kit. After a couple downpours that you get in Houston check the salt level since that's what causes the salt loss. Eventually you'll learn how many downpours you can go before you need to top off with salt. Only other time you lose salt is with a manual draining.

Chris
 
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Jimrahbe

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To go along with what Chris said about a K-1766... In my opinion, having a K-1766 is an absolute must no matter how well your SWCG's salt sensor is working.. It is very important to know the "actual" salt level vs. the salt level that the cell reports.. Relying on test strips, or pool store testing, is just not good enough in most cases.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

MCF50

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2020
192
Houston
Test kit shows 3000ppm salt. SWCG showing 2650ppm and low. Will this hurt the SWCG? I don't want to add salt if not necessary.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
22,012
I would add enough salt to get the reading above 2,800 ppm.

Salt Level Status LEDs

The IntelliChlor SCG checks the pool salinity water daily and displays the levels as follows:

Green LED: Good salt. The pool water salt level is between 2800 ppm and 4500.

Green LED (Flashing): Salt level is above 4500 ppm. The salt level is high which increases the risk of corrosion and deterioration of pool equipment and surfaces in and around the pool.

Red LED: Low salt. The water salt level is below 2800 ppm. The IntelliChlor SCG will be producing chlorine at reduced efficiency. It is highly recommended to add salt.

Red LED: Very low salt. The water salt level has fallen below 2600 ppm. The IntelliChlor SCG will not produce chlorine until salt is added. The IntelliChlor SCG is OFF

https://www.pentair.com/content/dam...al_Version_3_units_after_Nov_2011_English.pdf
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
22,012
You want a solid green "Salt" light and a solid green "Cell" light.

The cell has a 5 minute cycle. Depending on the setting, the cell light should be solid green for part of the 5 minutes and then off for the remainder of the 5 minutes and then back on solid green etc.

Cell: Shows the status of the IntelliChlor SCG.

• Green (flashing): The IntelliChlor SCG needs to be inspected. The blades may have calcium buildup.
The IntelliChlor SCG is not producing chlorine.

• Green: IntelliChlor SCG is good and producing chlorine.

• No Light: IntelliChlor SCG is off and not producing chlorine. It may be in an off-period of the sanitizing cycle and will return on shortly.

The five (5) LED indicators display as a bar graph to show the cell output in either 2% or 20% increments, the percentage of the total output capacity of chlorine being produced. Percentages from 2% to 10% are represented by blinking LEDs. Percentages from 20% to 100% are represented by solid LEDs. In BOOST mode, these LEDs scroll from left to right

0% No LEDs lit - No chlorine produced - IntelliChlor SCG is off.

2% 1 LED blinking Produces chlorine for 64 seconds of every hour.

4% 2 LEDs blinking Produces chlorine for 127 seconds of every hour.

6% 3 LEDs blinking Produces chlorine for 16 seconds of each 5 minute period.

8% 4 LEDs blinking Produces chlorine for 21 seconds of each 5 minute period.

10% 5 LEDs blinking Produces chlorine for 27 seconds of each 5 minute period.

20% 1 LED solid Produces chlorine for 53 seconds of each 5 minute period.

40% 2 LEDs solid Produces chlorine for 106 seconds of each 5 minute period.

60% 3 LEDs solid Produces chlorine for 159 seconds of each 5 minute period.

80% 4 LEDs solid Produces chlorine for 212 seconds of each 5 minute period.

100% 5 LEDs solid Produces chlorine for 265 seconds of each 5 minute period
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
22,012
The salinity readings are within the accuracy of the tests.

If the salinity readings begin to diverge, then that could point to a failing temperature sensor in the flow switch.

I would add one 40 lb bag of salt, which should get the reading to about 3,000 ppm.
 

MCF50

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2020
192
Houston
Thanks. Anyone to have the swcg come on when a feature is active? Right now the swcg only comes on with pool or spa and I can adjust % for each. I created a feature call High Flow (runs around 40gpm for 2 hours in morning for skimmer and water sound on patio). I went into settings on panel and don’t see any way to have swcg active with a feature.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
34,605
Laughlin, NV
For the SWCG to work, you need to be in Pool Mode. So set your base schedule in Pool. Then set a schedule with a Feature Circuit at a higher RPM for your High Flow. The SWCG will operate.
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
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Jul 7, 2014
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Bedford, TX
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The system is designed on purpose to only turn on the SWCG when in the Pool mode or Spa mode..

You just don't have your speeds set up right. Set the lowest speed your ever want to run as Pool (or Spa), and then while leaving Pool (or Spa) on, start turning on additional speeds.

The pump will run the faster of the speeds the pump is told to run.. As an example here are my speeds...




Thanks,

Jim R.
 

MCF50

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2020
192
Houston
50,

The system is designed on purpose to only turn on the SWCG when in the Pool mode or Spa mode..

You just don't have your speeds set up right. Set the lowest speed your ever want to run as Pool (or Spa), and then while leaving Pool (or Spa) on, start turning on additional speeds.

The pump will run the faster of the speeds the pump is told to run.. As an example here are my speeds...




Thanks,

Jim R.
Thanks....what I have is the rpm higher in morning so my waterfall is better sounding for morning coffee - that is what I created as 'High Flow' feature. Then during the day I have it run slower to create chlorine. So scheduled 'High Flow' in the morning and 'Pool' in the afternoon and evening. Can you schedule 'Pool' at different times with different speeds? I didn't even realize the SWCG was not on with 'High Flow' until this morning so I am still making enough chlorine in the afternoon and evening with SWCG currently set at 30%.
 

MCF50

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2020
192
Houston
Another question...understanding is this time of year uses about 0.3ppm of chlorine a day. The IC40 can make up to 1.4lb/day. So according to pool math if I want to maintain my current chlorine level of 3.2, I need to have the SWCG at only 14% of the SWCG is running 4 hours a day. This seems a little low? Thoughts??
 
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