IC and IPH not communicating

[KS Krafted]

So I had this all working last year for about a week or two, but then my IC died. I thought maybe something I had done had fried my IC. Well, I was not happy, because they're about 8 bills now. But then the water got cold and I just ignored the whole mess. The Winter Mode was working, though, so I got to enjoy auto-acid-dispensing all winter. But then spring sprung and so last weekend I knew I had to see what I had done.

I remembered from another thread here that there was a known issue with the IpH and IC. Something about the IC drawing too much power through the IpH, and then pooping out. I thought I could fix that problem, or if not, the IpH controller is a cheaper replacement than the IC. So I crossed my fingers. But then I uncrossed my fingers because I couldn't work the screw driver. I disassembled the IpH controller and there it was, just as I had seen in someone else's post:

View attachment 394966

Pentair is well aware of this issue. I think they now state not to use the IpH with an IC60, because of the excessive current draw of the 60. Guess what Pentair, it happens with an IC40, too! They should have recalled every last one of these!
== END OF RANT ==

Others here have pursued how to replace that connector. But I figured why do that? Just so it can happen again? My plan was to remove it and solder the wires to the board.

So I sliced off the connector with my Dremel. I managed to do that without slicing through the board, too. Man, those Dremels can MOVE. I almost sliced through that white component next to the connector, but it survived! I left the eight pins soldered to the board.

I tried to solder the wires to the pins, but that was a no go. The wires are fat, and stranded, and the pins are neither. I got a few soldered, but then they started popping off. Solder was bridging between the pins. The pins started melting out of the board. It was a real mess, and very frustrating.

So I abandoned that idea. On to plan B. I desoldered the pins and cleared out their respective holes in the board. I re-stripped the wires: I bared about 3/8", then I cut most of the strands at about 1/4". I left about 5 or 6 strands poking out about 1/8". These I used to thread through the holes in the board, which were too small to accommodate all of the strands. I didn't expect those few strands to carry the current, rather just to hold the wire in place while soldering. The solder flowed down all the strands, through the board and made a good connection.

View attachment 394979

I abused the board so much, doing this twice, that I fully expected it to be fried. I soldered and desoldered and re-soldered and bridged holes and cleaned and scraped. Normally I'm quite skilled at this kind of thing, but the wires are so fat and the holes so close together... ugh. But I held my breath and powered it up and son-of-a-gun it worked. And still is working. So I pulled it off.

This repair is not for the faint of heart, for sure. But it's possible, and I still contend that soldering the wires to the board is better than replacing that connector, even if you could find one somewhere. That said, I still put a pox on you Pentair!!

@Dirk Thank you so much for your post, this along with the other posts about the IC and the IPH not communicating really helped me troubleshoot my problem. I do have a question - this is on an IC40 (your soldering solution) correct? Is this a possible solution to an IC60 with an IPH? I didn't know about the incompatibility (excess power draw). I originally had it setup with an IC20, but it really wasn't keeping up (we have a lot of hot, sunny days here in Arizona), so, instead of going with the IC40, we figured we'd just go with the IC60 - which is why we didn't know about the incompatibility (power draw). If this is not a viable solution to the problem, do you have another recommendation for connecting the IC60 thru the IPH or is this not even possible? Thank you in advance for all your help! (I basically have the same issue as "Oakwater" in a series of posts from March 2022 - IC and IPH don't communicate, IC is almost brand new, opened up the IPH and it appears there is scorching on the connector by the red & black wires). - K.

 

[KS Krafted]

PS. Know that buying a new controller, or just replacing the circuit board, will not fix the over-current problem permanently. It's probable that it'll just happen again in some number of years.

I replied to a message in another thread, but, there hasn't been a post on their in quite some time, so, if you see this as a duplication, I'm sorry. Will this solution (of bypassing the white connector) also work for an IC60? - in other words, can the Intelliph board handle the IC60 power draw if you use the soldering bypass you have above? (I hope I'm explaining that correctly - I currently have an intelliph (with a very obviously fried connector) and an IC60(out of warranty)) so I was curious if the soldering bypass that works for the IC40 would also work for the IC60 or if the power draw on the IC60 is too much for the intelliph board itself?
- K

 

[ajw22]

IC60 works as well as the IC40 with the same wiring.

Power draw for the IC60 should not be a problem if you bypass the Pentair connector with one of the @Dirk hacks.

 

[Dirk]

Yes, my IC is a 40.

As Allen describes, the power bypass should solve the scorching issue for any IC model (20, 40 or 60).

Coincidentally, I just got around to doing mine!! In the thread of mine you found, you've seen how I solved the problem by ripping out the scorched connector and soldering all eight wires directly to the board (giant wires into tiny holes!!). That was a real test of my soldering skills! Some of us on the forum later came up with the much simpler solution of connecting the wires (in any of various ways) before they even get to the board. I always meant to go back in to redo mine like that, and I finally did on Monday! Hey, better late than never!!

Wago connectors would be the absolute simplest method. But I prefer soldering, to eliminate any future possibility of corrosion developing. I soldered mine on Monday (just like I illustrated it). But that's just me. If you use dielectric grease on each of the contact touch-points in the Wagon, or inside the wire nuts, that should keep them healthy for a good, long while.

This is what I've been using:

Amazon.com

I now put that stuff on all contacts: ethernet connections for all my outdoor cams, the IntelliChlor and IntellipH connectors, my variable-speed pump's com connector, etc. Anything outside, or subject to any kind of moisture.

 

[Dirk]

Or you can use the wire nuts made for irrigation wiring, that you'll find at any big-box store. They have the goo built in.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rain-Bird-10-Pack-Brown-Wire-Connectors/3643912

DryConn is another brand of corrosion-resistant wire nuts.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DryConn-Aqua-Red-5-Pack-Aqua-Wire-Connectors/3377350

Six bucks and you're golden.

 

[Dirk]

Did anyone mention? This hack will very likely void the Pentair warranty. If you're still under warranty, make Pentair give you a new IpH instead. Sometimes they'll just send you one, and let you throw away the old one. If they do: install the new one and fix the old one and you'll have a backup IpH controller.

Even if they want the old one, you should still pursue a new one. The scorching sometimes reaches other components on the IpH circuit board (we've seen that a few times). If that happened to you, but the IpH is still working, maybe those components will later poop out (out of warranty, of course).

 

[Dirk]

I replied to a message in another thread, but, there hasn't been a post on their in quite some time, so, if you see this as a duplication, I'm sorry. Will this solution (of bypassing the white connector) also work for an IC60? - in other words, can the Intelliph board handle the IC60 power draw if you use the soldering bypass you have above? (I hope I'm explaining that correctly - I currently have an intelliph (with a very obviously fried connector) and an IC60(out of warranty)) so I was curious if the soldering bypass that works for the IC40 would also work for the IC60 or if the power draw on the IC60 is too much for the intelliph board itself?
- K

Answered in your new thread. The bypass keeps all that current from ever getting to the IpH circuit board. So the draw from any model of IC doesn't matter, it never gets to the PCB.

 

[KS Krafted]

Yes, my IC is a 40.

As Allen describes, the power bypass should solve the scorching issue for any IC model (20, 40 or 60).

Coincidentally, I just got around to doing mine!! In the thread of mine you found, you've seen how I solved the problem by ripping out the scorched connector and soldering all eight wires directly to the board (giant wires into tiny holes!!). That was a real test of my soldering skills! Some of us on the forum later came up with the much simpler solution of connecting the wires (in any of various ways) before they even get to the board. I always meant to go back in to redo mine like that, and I finally did on Monday! Hey, better late than never!!

Wago connectors would be the absolute simplest method. But I prefer soldering, to eliminate any future possibility of corrosion developing. I soldered mine on Monday (just like I illustrated it). But that's just me. If you use dielectric grease on each of the contact touch-points in the Wagon, or inside the wire nuts, that should keep them healthy for a good, long while.

This is what I've been using:

Amazon.com

I now put that stuff on all contacts: ethernet connections for all my outdoor cams, the IntelliChlor and IntellipH connectors, my variable-speed pump's com connector, etc. Anything outside, or subject to any kind of moisture.

Thank you so much for the super quick reply! I'm hoping nothing else is damaged on the board (seems to work except for the communication to the IC), but, it's a pretty good scorch I'm pretty good at electricity (wired my husband's new pool years ago and rewired some of mine), but my husband is better at solder work So, between the two of us I think we can get it done. Thanks for the info on the grease. We don't have much corrosion here in AZ because it's so dry, but, it does happen, so, I'll be sure and pick some up. Here's some pics. I angled the first shot in the sun so you could see the heat mark across the board (green), hopefully the component above it is okay. The connector was so fried I had a heck of a time getting it unconnected.

 

[KS Krafted]

Answered in your new thread. The bypass keeps all that current from ever getting to the IpH circuit board. So the draw from any model of IC doesn't matter, it never gets to the PCB.

I have a couple of questions, one, can you remind me what the PCB is? We are going to go the solder route, and with that being said, we only need to solder a single red wire to pin 1 on the board and a single black wire to pin 2 on the board, correct? (not also soldering it to pin 5 and 6 respectively?) - I just want to be crystal clear on our process here. Essentially clipping off the 2 red wires from the connector and the 2 black wires from the connector (connector is so toast!), then soldering the two red wires together, along with another red wire that will be soldered onto the board only at pin 1 and then the same process with the black wires, then soldered onto the board at pin 2.

I also went back and tried to find hand drawn schematic for the board in the forums (couldn't find it), can someone tell me what the D3 chip is for on the board (about an inch directly to the right of the connector)? I think mine is also toast So, the soldering might not help this sad board. - K

 

[Dirk]

I'm hoping nothing else is damaged on the board (seems to work except for the communication to the IC)

I believe the area I circled is responsible for the communications, so I would have to guess you did not, in fact, escape with nothing else damaged. This is what I was referring to when I mentioned that other components sometimes also get fried. @ogdento, what do you think, and didn't you once mention that those chips could be replaced?

can you remind me what the PCB is?

Printed Circuit Board

We are going to go the solder route, and with that being said, we only need to solder a single red wire to pin 1 on the board and a single black wire to pin 2 on the board, correct?

Yes.

I just want to be crystal clear on our process here. Essentially clipping off the 2 red wires from the connector and the 2 black wires from the connector (connector is so toast!), then soldering the two red wires together, along with another red wire that will be soldered onto the board only at pin 1 and then the same process with the black wires, then soldered onto the board at pin 2.

100% correct.

can someone tell me what the D3 chip is for on the board (about an inch directly to the right of the connector)? I think mine is also toast So, the soldering might not help this sad board.

Wait until Tom (ogdento) weighs in. If you're going to salvage that board, I think you'll need to replace those chips, too.

along with another red wire that will be soldered onto the board only at pin 1

You'll find that the gauge of wire used in the connector will not fit into the holes of the PCB. I had a heck of a time with that. But if you connect the fat wires together before they get to the board, then the gauge of wire that connects from that splice to the PCB can be much smaller, as it now only has to carry the current that the board needs, not the current that the IntelliChlor needs. I didn't know any of that when I fixed my board, Tom figured all that out after I had done what I did. The white and green wires don't carry much current either, those are the comm wires, so they can be smaller, but they don't get spliced together. All four (two white and two greens) must each be soldered to the board separately.

Or if you're planning on still using the connector for the white and green wires, that'll work, too. I didn't do that because I didn't trust the pins in that connector, even for the white and green. My theory is that those pins are cheap metal and they corrode, which then starts to act like a resistor, which then gets hot, then too hot, then melts the connector and breaks the connection. The white and green pins will never get that hot, but I expect they could still corrode, which might someday play havoc with the comms that are flowing through those pins.

I first tried cutting off the pins from the connector that is attached to the board, and soldering on to those. But the heat of my iron desoldered the pins from the board. So I took out all the pins and soldered the wires directly to the board. And I didn't use a smaller gauge (I didn't know to), and that took every bit of decades of soldering experience I have to pull off. I was sure I had fried my board with all the solder attempts that required. But I got away with it. That's the risk if you remove that connector and try to solder all six wires to the board. I would likely do it the same way again, but I now know to use a smaller gauge wire, and so the soldering would be a lot easier.

Do what you think is best, based on what you think you can do without making things worse...

 

[ogdento]

d3 and d4 are TVS (transient voltage suppression) diodes that protect the data lines on the comm chip (u5)... yours are definitely dead - but it seems like you figured that anyway. there's a very good chance that U5 is also dead, and a possibility that the relay (white block) that switches the data lines in/out... but you'll be able to tell once you get it connected back up.

if you're talking about my janky pencil-drawn schematic it's here:

Intelliph issue and lousy schematic

Hey folks, wasn't sure what thread to put this under but I was working on a dead Intelliph and discovered some interesting things... but first, here's a rough (and I do mean rough) schematic that I drew: What I noticed is that not only were the comm chip (U5), protection diodes (D3, D4) and...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Dirk]

Just keep the following in mind. This system is not "home automation" that controls a few house lights. It's a mission-critical component of your pool water maintenance that has some serious dangerous potentials. If the IpH fails to stop the acid pump as intended, it could theoretically dump four gallons of acid into your pool without you even knowing it. Or worse, it could theoretically pump acid into a generating SWG, which theoretically could end up producing poisonous, explosive gas inside your pool plumbing.

I repeat "theoretically" so much, because this is all farfetched. But I'm just pointing out that connecting a couple sets of wires inside the IpH (which are already electrically connected on the PCB) is one thing. But trying to resurrect a badly fried board back to mission-critical status is another.

Then there is the somewhat-likely possibility where you could go through considerable effort (in addition to what you have already) and still end up with a dead board, or one that is ready to die due to compromised components, at some later, certain-to-be inconvenient, date. And then have to buy a new one anyway!

In other words, what is the risk vs reward of this endeavor?

Here's an example of a complete replacement of the board and faceplate for three bills. What's your time worth?

🔥 521513 Pentair IntellipH Faceplate and PCBA Board

Get 521513 Pentair IntellipH Faceplate and PCBA Board from Best Pool Shop online or locally

bestpoolshop.com

EDIT: oops, on that same page was a link to the entire controller, which was cheaper!

🔥 522711 Pentair IntellipH Controller Unit

Get 522711 Pentair IntellipH Controller Unit from Best Pool Shop online or locally

bestpoolshop.com

And maybe you could shop around for a cheaper deal, or a used one, before you go any further with your kindling...

 

[Dirk]

@ogdento, @ajw22, do either of you know what this is, and/or what it does? It's only $65 bucks.

Pentair Controller Upgrade Kit 522478Z

The Upgrade Kit allows you to upgrade your IntelliChem controller to enable you to use the new Acid and Chlorine Tank Mounted Pumps.

sunplay.com

 

[Dirk]

521513 Pentair IntellipH Faceplate and PCBA Board – PoolAqua.com

poolaqua.com

Down to $273.

I can't/don't endorse any of these online parts shops. I've been burned before. Be sure you buy only from reputable sources. Trying to save $10 or $20 bucks is not always worth it. I'm down to buying almost everything only on Amazon. Their return policy makes just about everything a no-risk dealio.

PS. You can always ask here about a particular on-line shop, to see if anyone has had a good or bad experience with it.

 

[Dirk]

Weird, same store as above, for $269? That might be a red flag.

522711 Pentair IntellipH Controller Unit – PoolAqua.com

poolaqua.com

The entire controller is about $300, that's pretty consistent across many online stores.

 

[ajw22]

@ogdento, @ajw22, do either of you know what this is, and/or what it does? It's only $65 bucks.

Pentair Controller Upgrade Kit 522478Z

The Upgrade Kit allows you to upgrade your IntelliChem controller to enable you to use the new Acid and Chlorine Tank Mounted Pumps.

sunplay.com

Nope.

The IntellipH Installation Manual Pentair has on its website is from 2015. That is no help for updates or parts.

 

[Dirk]

Nope.

The IntellipH Installation Manual Pentair has on its website is from 2015. That is no help for updates or parts.

Thanks anyway. That webpage claims it's for both IntelliChem and IntellipH, but I suspect it's just IntelliChem...

 

[ajw22]

Thanks anyway. That webpage claims it's for both IntelliChem and IntellipH, but I suspect it's just IntelliChem...

Other sellers say the same...

Pentair 522478Z Intellichem Controller Tank-Mount Pump Upgrade Kit

The Pentair 522478Z Intellichem Controller Tank-Mount Pump Upgrade Kit is an excellent choice for your needs! Get it today at Pool Warehouse!

www.poolwarehouse.com

For use with : IntelliChem Water Chemical Controller, Intelliph Chemical Controller Container

Here is the upgraded pump...

Pentair Tank Mounted Pump Upgrade Kit, 522474

Pentair Tank Mounted Pump Upgrade Kit, 522474 (PAC-451-2474), 788379869298

www.eztestpools.com

And its manual is attached that shows the upgraded Controller Board...

 

[Dirk]

Thanks. I think what the pages are saying is that the board is compatible with both the tanks/pumps of the IntelliChem and IntellipH (they are virtually the same exact part). Not that the board is intended for use with the IntellipH controller. It looks to be some interface for the IntelliChem system.

 

[ajw22]

Thanks. I think what the pages are saying is that the board is compatible with both the tanks of the IntelliChem and IntellipH (they are virtually the same exact part). Not that the board is intended for use with the IntellipH controller. It looks to be some interface for the IntelliChem system.

Yup, typical Pentair speak.