IC-40 salt reading much lower than TF-Pro test kit

[KirkWSB]

Hi everyone,

My IC-40 has been reporting my salt level in the range of 2800-3200 ppm while my TF-Pro test kit shows the salt in the range of 3600-4000 ppm (last recorded as 3600 on 7/6). The IC-40 is consistently around 800 ppm lower than the kit.

I ran the IC-40 diagnostic (by holding down the "More" button), and the Cold Water light did not turn red at all. I ran that diagnostic a few times to be sure.

Should I care about the discrepancy? I've just been ignoring what the IC-40 shows so far. My OCD would be happier though if the numbers weren't so far apart. Any thoughts?

I've been running the pump around 15 hours a day with the IC-40 at 30%, and my chlorine levels have been consistently 4-5 all season with very clear water. So I'm not concerned about a water quality problem to chase, but since this is my first season as a pool owner, I'm wondering if there's an equipment problem here that I should chase.

Thanks

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

If the cell is happy and generating then all is good.

Measurements by two very different techniques are not likely to agree.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Kirk,

I agree with Allen above..

That said, tell me how you end your salt test.. Do you stop the instant the milky color changes to a solid color, or do you keep adding drops until the color no longer changes?

The K-1766 salt test is +/- 200 ppm and the salt reported by the cell is +/- 500. So, nothing to worry about..

Changing the Cell's flow switch can often get the two number closer, but not something I would suggest unless the two numbers are so far apart that the cell no longer works because it 'thinks' the salt level is too low.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[KirkWSB]

Kirk,

I agree with Allen above..

That said, tell me how you end your salt test.. Do you stop the instant the milky color changes to a solid color, or do you keep adding drops until the color no longer changes?

The K-1766 salt test is +/- 200 ppm and the salt reported by the cell is +/- 500. So, nothing to worry about..

Changing the Cell's flow switch can often get the two number closer, but not something I would suggest unless the two numbers are so far apart that the cell no longer works because it 'thinks' the salt level is too low.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Hi Jim,

I try to follow the letter of the instructions when ending the salt test. I don't stop with the first subtle color change; I wait until it makes that jump to milky salmon (which is typically just one more drop), but I don't keep adding drops to turn it brown (which seems to happen with another drop or two).

-Kirk

 

[Jimrahbe]

Kirk,

I was just looking for any reason that your test might be a little high. I assume you are using a speed-stir, which is almost a requirement to run a good salt test..

When I run the test, when I get close to the actual salt reading, the milky color will change to salmon, for just a second or two and then change back. The very first time it changes and does not change back is where I stop.. I don't try to make any specific color...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[JamesW]

I ran the IC-40 diagnostic (by holding down the "More" button), and the Cold Water light did not turn red at all. I ran that diagnostic a few times to be sure.