iAqualink 2.0 Antenna - red power light on only on the antenna. System is offline.

[sixsmarts]

We were hit by lightening and our pool company upgraded the board. They said there is power going to antenna -- not impacted by lightening. We use Wired not Wifi for the last 4 years. I have tried both wifi and wired and no change in lights. So far no matter what I tried, have only the red power light. I have confirmed that the internet cable works by plugging it into a different device.

I can't seem to find anything that helps me troubleshoot if it is a synching issue between new board and antenna, fried antenna (but why red power light?) or something else. Any help is appreciated.

 

[HermanTX]

I would start fresh just to rule out any other connection issues.
See this quick start on the Jandy website

https://cdn.fluidrausa.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/jandy/automation/h0698700.pdf?rev=065c5b97926a4e53a5ab06edcf6d0ebd

 

[ajw22]

Which connection method have you tried?

Note this - NOTE: If the iQ30 is having communication issues with the RS it may be due to a interference issue on the RS-485 serial bus. To verify, use a OneTouch controller connected to the RS and see if the IQ30 is listed in the equipment section of system status and help. If its not, line resistance may be required by adding a closed jumper shunt to the pins at location J5 on the IQ30.

 

[sixsmarts]

Thank you -- tried wired, wifi hotspot and wps -- no change in lights on antenna. I will try again with the instructions. We still ahve the 2.0 antenna but the system was upgraded to 3.0. Maybe they are not compatable.

 

[ajw22]

It is only the antenna that determines if you have iAqualink 2.0 or 3.0. There is no difference in the board.

Post pics of the antenna and the RS-485 antenna connection on the Aqualink board.

 

[HermanTX]

Thank you -- tried wired, wifi hotspot and wps -- no change in lights on antenna. I will try again with the instructions. We still ahve the 2.0 antenna but the system was upgraded to 3.0. Maybe they are not compatable.

The antenna connection process is the same for either 2.0 or 3.0. The only difference between the 2 antennas is that the 3.0 was the upgrade to work better with mesh routers such as Eero or Linksys, etc.
I would power down the whole system, check the antenna connections on the RED connector and then go through the connection process on the instructions.
The PCB will connect to either antenna..

The red connector with the 4 wires is the antenna.
You can only have 2 different devices (with either 2 or 4 wires each) connected to 1 red connector - so the new PCBs have 2 red connectors which allow 4 devices - such as an antenna, a pump, a SWCG, and 1 other such as a 2nd pump.