I think my IC-40 is finally giving up the ghost ... now IC-60 Installed

[JoyfulNoise]

At almost 4 times your pool gallons, you'll be running that thing at 5%. Hope you have automation, or I guess you could run your pump less.

I’d estimate around 25% output based on previous IC40 settings. I have an EasyTouch 8 panel and an IntelliFlow pump so I typically run low % output and long hours at low RPM.

 

[JamesW]

At almost 4 times your pool gallons, you'll be running that thing at 5%. Hope you have automation, or I guess you could run your pump less.

The cell can be set to 4% or 6% from the cell.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

The cell can be set to 4% or 6% from the cell.

I forgot they added that feature. My IC40 was from 2013 before they added the low % output control. Now if they’d only make all diagnostic info available … not-holding-breath

 

[JamesW]

It would be nice to get the voltage, current, temperature, total runtime, and any other data that could be derived from the cell.

 

[proavia]

I best you could have gotten a better deal if you bundled the IC60 with Screen Logic. Then you could adjust the pool from the comfort of you kitchen or office (lab).

Or maybe you've had SL for quite some time and "forgot" to mention it.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I best you could have gotten a better deal if you bundled the IC60 with Screen Logic. Then you could adjust the pool from the comfort of you kitchen or office (lab).

Or maybe you've had SL for quite some time and "forgot" to mention it.

As @Jimrahbe knows well, hades will freeze over and swine will sprout wings before anyone can pry my RF EasyTouch remote from my cold dead hands …. Scream-illogic is one step above letting squirrels control your pool equipment.

 

[proavia]

Me thinks we are half way there...

 

[santacruzpool]

Speaking of squirrels....

My favorite 2020 video:

 

[mguzzy]

So I am curious how close is your k1766 salinity to the instant salinity reported by the cell now that it is brand spanking new?

It would be nice to get the voltage, current, temperature, total runtime, and any other data that could be derived from the cell.

you meant to old cell? Yeah that would be informative.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

So I am curious how close is your k1766 salinity to the instant salinity reported by the cell now that it is brand spanking new?

That data will definitely be posted as soon as I get it up and running. My salt is too low to install the cell. I’ll need to make some detailed chemical readings tomorrow or Friday to get a feel for how efficient my drain process was. Interestingly enough, I forgot to block off my main drain which is plumbed to my skimmer (sad ) and when I was adding hose water through the skimmer I could see it backing up through the main drain as the TDS difference created a noticeable optical refractive index change. It looked like a wavy plume of water rising up to the top of the pool. I plugged up the main drain port in my skimmer and it went away. I wish I could of gotten a picture of it but my iPhone camera skills are weak.

 

[JamesW]

you meant to old cell? Yeah that would be informative.

For any cell, the voltage current and temperature are very helpful to know.

The Hayward estimates salinity from the cell performance based on the water temperature, voltage and current.

It does not have a separate conductivity sensor, like the Intellichlor, Jandy or Autopilot.

They could easily use the same technique with a simple software upgrade along with the conductivity sensor to give two different measurements of the salinity for comparison.

This could also be used to estimate the performance of the cell and estimate remaining cell life.

 

[mguzzy]

when I was adding hose water through the skimmer I could see it backing up through the main drain as the TDS difference created a noticeable optical refractive index change. It looked like a wavy plume of water rising up to the top of the pool.

Oh.. that is cool. I had a similar refractive shadow caused by warm water from the previous night mixing with the cooler layer. The pool surface was glass smooth, yet the refractive shadows created all kinds of swirly shadows on the bottom. It was like watching Dancing Wu Li Masters sketch gray scale floating Mandelbrots in my swimming pool. No I was not high, but I should-a been

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Well, my 11,000 gallon transfer got me this -


==========================================
JoyfulNoise's Pool
------------------------------------------
Build Type: Plaster
Volume: 16000 gallons
------------------------------------------
Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 8.5 (2 hours ago)
CC: 0.0 (2 hours ago)
pH: 7.5 (2 hours ago)
TA: 80 (2 hours ago)
CH: 550 (2 hours ago)
CYA: 30 (2 hours ago)
SALT: 1600 (2 hours ago)
BORATES: 20 (2 hours ago)
TEMPERATURE: 77° (2 hours ago)
CSI: 0.03 (2 hours ago)
==========================================

CH was hovering around 1100ppm (maybe 1150ppm ). If my exchange drain were perfect, I should have gotten around 480ppm, but I got 550ppm. The water I added back was about 9,000 gallons of municipal (200ppm CH) and about 2000 gallons of softener water.

My CYA is very low, the test water was barely cloudy even up to the 30ppm mark so I’m calling 30ppm for now. I need to get some granular CYA to fix that.

Salt needs to be added at approximately 6 bags. I’ll add 5 to start with and see where that gets me.

I’ll deal with borates later. I have a bucket of boric acid in the garage so I’ll eventually get that added.

I’ll probably tear apart the filter on Sat or Sun (nothing says Happy Mother’s Day like a freshly cleaned DE filter …. right?) and when I do the plumbing will be drained and I can easily swap out the SWGs.

 

[JamesW]

CSI: 0.03 (2 hours ago)

Even after a drain and refill, you have a near perfect CSI.

That's a real pro!

 

[JoyfulNoise]

WOOHOO ….




Bubbles confirmed at the returns …. I love the smell of hydrogen gas in the morning!!!



Added five 40lbs bags of pool salt (yes, I splurged) and my K-1766 says 3100ppm. A 150ppm difference is fine. I have one more bag of salt and will add it after the SWG turns off later today to avoid spiking the salinity when the SWG is running.

Chlorine shortage … I think not! I’ve got all the chlorine gas I could possibly use

 

[JoyfulNoise]

My chemicals are still a bit off. I need to add CYA as I’m at 30ppm (or less) and my borates are low.

 

[JamesW]

Based on the reliability of the flow sensors, you might as well stock up now.

I figure that a case or two should probably get you through the year.

 

[JamesW]

Just don't have them delivered by these people.

 

[Shazbat]

I have read several posts of Pentair not supporting warranty claims for owner-installed Salt Water generators. I wanted to post a positive experience that I just had with the issue. I had an IC40 that worked great for about 11/2 years...recently, the cell just started shutting down - no lights at all. If I disconnected the cell, then reconnected later (Cleaning/inspecting/checking voltage on the power supply, etc.) the cell would come back alive and make chlorine for 30 minutes to an hour...then poof! go lights again.

I started looking for a new cell, and oh boy! they are expensive this year! Finally, with nothing to lose, I decided to call Pentair. They had changed their Customer Support recording, allowing you to 'save your place in line, and Pentair will call you back' ...so that you no longer have to remain on hold indefinitely! I received a call back in very short order, discussed the situation with a tech rep, who agreed it sounded like an issue with the cell. The rep provided me with a Work Order number and contact information for a local Pentair rep to stop by and evaluate the cell. This is the one area that caused a little consternation on my part...the agreement said if it was a warranty issue there would be no charge, but that I would be responsible for the call-out fee if the issue was not warranty related.

To prevent a possible callout charge, I really investigated the power cell ...again...but could find no issues. So finally asked the contractor to check the cell....he was out the very next day, confirmed an issue with the cell and replaced my failed cell with a new one.

A very positive experience all the way around.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I have read several posts of Pentair not supporting warranty claims for owner-installed Salt Water generators. I wanted to post a positive experience that I just had with the issue. I had an IC40 that worked great for about 11/2 years...recently, the cell just started shutting down - no lights at all. If I disconnected the cell, then reconnected later (Cleaning/inspecting/checking voltage on the power supply, etc.) the cell would come back alive and make chlorine for 30 minutes to an hour...then poof! go lights again.

I started looking for a new cell, and oh boy! they are expensive this year! Finally, with nothing to lose, I decided to call Pentair. They had changed their Customer Support recording, allowing you to 'save your place in line, and Pentair will call you back' ...so that you no longer have to remain on hold indefinitely! I received a call back in very short order, discussed the situation with a tech rep, who agreed it sounded like an issue with the cell. The rep provided me with a Work Order number and contact information for a local Pentair rep to stop by and evaluate the cell. This is the one area that caused a little consternation on my part...the agreement said if it was a warranty issue there would be no charge, but that I would be responsible for the call-out fee if the issue was not warranty related.

To prevent a possible callout charge, I really investigated the power cell ...again...but could find no issues. So finally asked the contractor to check the cell....he was out the very next day, confirmed an issue with the cell and replaced my failed cell with a new one.

A very positive experience all the way around.

Pentair’s warranty for e-commerce purchases (EC part number) is now 2 years for any IntelliChlor even self-installed. That’s a good thing. I hope I have no issues but I felt much better about dropping nearly a grand with a 2 year warranty.