I need help, no clue what we are doing.

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Jrod1611

Jrod1611

0
Nov 4, 2018
22
Chandler
First time owning a house with an ingrown pool. We did our best all summer with chlorine tablets, shocking the pool, scrubbing etc.
We live in Phoenix so we just stopped swimming in it a few weeks ago and want to get it back in good shape all winter.

We have black Algea spots on the bottom we can't seem to get rid of no matter what we try, scraping, brushing, shocking.

How can we get it in good shape and what exactly do you need to do to maintain it. I've read and heard so much different advice. I feel we are wasting money trying this and that. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: Your situation isn't rare, but requires the same basic sequence to correct. We'd recommend the following:
1 - Test your own water (properly) with either a TF-100 (link below) or Taylor K-2006C test kit. Everything we say & do starts with accurate test results
2 - Provide a full set of water test results from one of those kits
3 - You mentioned tabs. How else are you chlorinating?
4 - Enter all of your pool and equipment info into your signature. We'll refer to those often.

The first step to removing algae at TFP is performing a SLAM Process.. Not a one-time pool store type shock, but maintaining that FC level until you pass 3 criteria. You'll need one of those test kits to do a SLAM. If you are going to the pool store for help or products, I'd stop. Use regular bleach as chlorine (same thing) for now and post a full set of water results. You'll be surprised how easy it is once you understand everything. Make sure to start with our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry page.

Let us know how else we can help.
 
OK so our PH is 7.5 that seems about right. But our cya reading was over 100. Looks like we have to drain 60% of the pool to lower it and we have no idea how to do that.

Should we figure that out first or should we SLAM at that CYA level, which would mean 985oz of 6% bleach? Our test kit won't go as high as our recommended FC of 11 to 13 so how can I see if the SLAM is complete? Thank you for your help.
 
You'll want to adjust the CYA first. Once you do that, it should never increase without your knowledge again. Just stay away from chlorine tabs/pucks or those bags of shock from the pool stores. Liquid chlorine (aka bleach) is best. Once you lower the CYA to something more reasonable, say ~50 or so, then you can perform a SLAM Process.

If your filter is such that it doesn't have a multiport valve to run water to waste, then you'll probably need to rent/buy a small pump to pull the water out. Some who aren't in a hurry might even try to siphon water out with a garden hose (or two, or three) and just let them flow.

If needed, you can always do a diluted CYA test as seen on the Pool School - CYA page starting at Step #8.
 
You state your test kit cannot test to above 10 ppm FC. Have you purchased one of the test kits Pat recommended in the earlier post? You must have a proper test kit to complete your SLAM Process after you have reduced your CYA.

What is your CH? If that is very high (above 800 ppm) it may be best to drain the entire pool and refill with fresh.
 
OK, does 60% sound about right to you?
Click to expand...
At this point, 60% is still a guess. You CYA could be higher, or it may be lower depending on how you obtained those results. Test kits don't go over 100, so anything over that gets very difficult. The diluted test info above helps, but only if you have a proper test kit of your own to do it with. Pool stores are often off on the CYA test because of the incandescent lights and techniques used. Can you confirm how your water is tested? Pool store, locally purchased product? TFP prides itself on helping pool owners, but we also know that if the test results are skewed, our advice won't help either.

As a side note, and to piggyback on Marty mentioned, your CH will be good to know as well since water in your area is typically hard. The water exchange should help with that as well. But everything hinges on those accurate test results.
 
The HTH products are convenient and may give you some immediate test results, but you'll find they won't sustain you for long or be as accurate. A CH of 900 isn't the highest we've seen, but you're getting up there and difficult to manage overall to prevent scaling. Between that and your elevated CYA, a good water exchange sounds like a good move. But once that's done, you'll need to perform a SLAM Process to address the initial concern about algae. For that you'll need one of the recommended test kits. The accuracy you get in those kits pay for themselves in efficiency. Something to consider. FYI - I chose the TF-100 because it is packed with Taylor reagents and packaged in such a way that you simply can't beat their value or customer service.

As for pressure washing, I'd be hesitant to do that right now. Depending on the age/condition of the plaster, you could actually tear it up.
 

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Here is the numbers we got from Leslie's Pool Place. They recommended we drain as well. We are going to drain, buy the kit, new cartridges, and perform a slam.

You say no pressure washing, is there another way to clean the algea and black algea on the bottom? Just scrub with the chlorine tabs? Our house and pool are built in 1986.

Thank you again for all your help.

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With plaster that old, I might be inclined to try a steel brush gently at first along with a solid bleach applications. Due to the age of your plaster, I suspect it's more vulnerable to penetration of algae roots. Still, not all is lost. Once you get the water exchange and begin to balance your water properly, make sure to review our Pool School - Black Algae page for more info. Obtaining one of the proper test kits is definitely a must and a good move on your part. Once you get it, add it to your signature and post a full set of numbers. We'll be happy to review them for you.

Remember, when exchanging water, never empty the pool completely unless you know ahead of time the ground underneath is stable. Granted in Chandler there shouldn't be much movement or a high water table, but I wouldn't go any lower than about 18 inches or so if even that far. Best to err on the side of caution. In addition, plaster should not be exposed to the sun very long, so keep that in mind as well. Patience, continuous brushing, and maintaining the proper chemistry should make a work of difference.
 
Is the plaster the original from 1986? If so, I think you’re missing a step in between drain & refill: re-plaster. Mine was from 1988 & definitely past its expiration date.

The black spots you can’t scrub away could be eroded-away plaster. That’s what I had.
 
I'm not sure, I think I have the previous owners phone number. I will check with them when was the last time it was replastered, or reallybhow old the pool is. Once we refill and test with the new kit I will post the numbers and see what you all think and I will read up again on the files.

I think using way too much chlorox extreme blue shock and putting 5-6 pucks in 2 floaters, was a bad way to go.

I am interested in how you all Sunkist use liquid bleach. So you don't use pucks at all? I think that contributed to the crazy cya levels.
 
I think using way too much chlorox extreme blue shock and putting 5-6 pucks in 2 floaters, was a bad way to go.
Click to expand...
Right, you want to stay away from those products that have the word "blue" in the (copper) and chlorine tabs/pucks (stabilizer-CYA). Stick to easy TFP basics - regular bleach for chlorine FC). It's the same ingredient as pool store liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) and contains NO stabilizer by-products. Just make sure the bleach you buy is plain/regular and NOT listed with any scents, splashless, or contains any fabric polymer additives. The bleach bottle should clearly list its % strength (i.e. 6%, 8.25%, etc) and have a Julian Date printed on the bottle. The Julian date might look something like "18 305" which is 305-day (1 Nov) 2018.

For those of us who chlorinate manually (no salt generator), it's important to check the FC each day and simply add the required bleach each day to maintain the proper FC as noted on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. With the proper test kit and routine, you'll find it's not that tough to do. But other than muriatic acid, there's not much else you ever need to go to the pool store for.
 
Sounds good! I am buying the TF kit today. We are draining on Wednesday, cleaning and starting over. I will post the TF kit numbers here and get your opinion how to move going forward and I am reading all the links mentioned above, thank you!
 
Use your test kit to get your baseline water chemistry values after you refill. Then get 30 ppm CYA in the water, adjust your pH to 7.2, and SLAM Process.
 

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