We just bought this house in October. They replaced the filter. I want to know if they put the salt generator thing back on correctly. The flow arrow makes is seem as though water is going from the IC20 salt generator back into the filter. I don't know what I am doing- I have added 8X 40lbs of salt, shocked, etc. Can't get the salt generator to produce chlorine. The plates are clear- no build up. The water temp is 68 but the light for cold water is not lit. Meanwhile, the pool is turning cloudier by the day. I put yellow out, sanitizer, and calcium + in it. I thought salt water pools were supposed to be easier. Can someone just tell me if it is set up properly, including the valves. Or if the salt call is just dead? (Elem ed teacher here- not a chemist or engineer...)
I don't know what I am doing
- Thread starter hparker
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,018
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Welcome! 
Best I can tell from my computer screen, it looks backwards. 
The cell arrow (flow) should be following the direction of water back towards the pool. By being backwards, the internal flow switch is being pushed in the opposite direction by the water, probably holding it closed. That's why you're getting those errors - maybe that red light as well.
Until you get the cell turned around, don't add anything else to the water except liquid chlorine (regular bleach). That's what you need ASAP to combat the cloudiness and prevent an major algae mess.
Best I can tell from my computer screen, it looks backwards. The cell arrow (flow) should be following the direction of water back towards the pool. By being backwards, the internal flow switch is being pushed in the opposite direction by the water, probably holding it closed. That's why you're getting those errors - maybe that red light as well.Until you get the cell turned around, don't add anything else to the water except liquid chlorine (regular bleach). That's what you need ASAP to combat the cloudiness and prevent an major algae mess.
H,
Why should you be any different than the rest of us..
It appears to me that your cell is in upside down and someone has shorted the flow switch to make it work.. At least based upon the pic that is the way it looks..
Show us a couple more pics from further back..
Has it ever worked? When was it installed??
Jim R.
Why should you be any different than the rest of us..
It appears to me that your cell is in upside down and someone has shorted the flow switch to make it work.. At least based upon the pic that is the way it looks..
Show us a couple more pics from further back..
Has it ever worked? When was it installed??
Jim R.
Salt "easier" is a subjective. I just started using salt within the last 3 weeks and I can see that at some point I'll consider salt "easier" but it is NOT set and forget. Read through TFP (Pool School). You either have to hire somebody or get yourself educated on pool chemestry and SWG. No simple answer to your post
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,018
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Also take a few minutes to update your signature (see mine as an example). Also read/save those Vital Links in my signature. They will help.
How are you testing your water? Do you have a TF-100 or Taylor K2006C test kit? If not, please make that a priority. Nothing is better for residential water testing. See Test Kits Compared
How are you testing your water? Do you have a TF-100 or Taylor K2006C test kit? If not, please make that a priority. Nothing is better for residential water testing. See Test Kits Compared
Riding a bicycle is easier than riding a tricycle, but there is always that initial learning curve.
Jim R.
Jim R.
There is a sticker on the back of the cell with a date. What is the date on the sticker?
I suspect that the flow switch was replaced and the arrow on the flow switch is pointing down.
Pop off the cap with the word Flow so that we can get a good look at the flow switch.
You need a good salt test kit like a K-1766.
It's showing low salt, which might be actually low salt or a cell testing error. Only a good salt test kit will let you know what's going on.
I suspect that the flow switch was replaced and the arrow on the flow switch is pointing down.
Pop off the cap with the word Flow so that we can get a good look at the flow switch.
You need a good salt test kit like a K-1766.
It's showing low salt, which might be actually low salt or a cell testing error. Only a good salt test kit will let you know what's going on.
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I have just uploaded more pics. Sorry the serial number is upside down. When I press the "more" button on salt cell for three sec to get the life is says it's 80% dead (I guess that means it has 20% more life or is it just already dead?)
Ok, the flow switch is pointing down. They rotated it opposite of the normal direction for some reason.
It should still work either way.
The cell is pretty old since it was made with no date on the sticker. Probably more than 10 years old.
We need a reliable salt test to know if the cell is good.
An old IC20 is unlikely to still be good, but let's see what happens when the salinity is about 3,500 ppm.
You can go to a local pool store for a salt test until you get your own test kit.
Just don't let the pool store sell you anything.
It should still work either way.
The cell is pretty old since it was made with no date on the sticker. Probably more than 10 years old.
We need a reliable salt test to know if the cell is good.
An old IC20 is unlikely to still be good, but let's see what happens when the salinity is about 3,500 ppm.
You can go to a local pool store for a salt test until you get your own test kit.
Just don't let the pool store sell you anything.
Too late. I have spent hundreds already... The salt level is 2,900 according to the pool store...
Try increasing the salinity to 3,600 ppm.
If that doesn't work, I suspect that you're due for a new cell.
Your cell is pretty old. I don't know if it uses a temperature sensor or not.
Get the salinity to 3,600 ppm and confirm with a K-1766 salt test kit and we can go from there.
Use liquid chlorine to SLAM.
If that doesn't work, I suspect that you're due for a new cell.
Your cell is pretty old. I don't know if it uses a temperature sensor or not.
Get the salinity to 3,600 ppm and confirm with a K-1766 salt test kit and we can go from there.
Use liquid chlorine to SLAM.
Note that having the flow switch pointing down is not ideal.
It has a higher risk of failure due to the flapper potentially falling closed due to gravity and triggering a false good flow signal.
Maybe consider placing the cell horizontally for better reliability.
The cell has a Cold water light. So, it has a temperature sensor.
If the salinity doesn't read as good when you get to a verified 3,600, we can do some tests to see what's going on with the temperature sensor.
It has a higher risk of failure due to the flapper potentially falling closed due to gravity and triggering a false good flow signal.
Maybe consider placing the cell horizontally for better reliability.
The cell has a Cold water light. So, it has a temperature sensor.
If the salinity doesn't read as good when you get to a verified 3,600, we can do some tests to see what's going on with the temperature sensor.
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Great advice from James. In the meantime grab some pool chlorine gallon jugs and start slamming the pool before it gets worst.