Hydrostatic valve, Hydrostatic cap, vs well point with sump pump vs

Palaestra

Member
Jun 30, 2019
24
Fort Myers
Hello community!

Well point with sump pump vs Hydrostatic valve vs hydrostatic cap question/advice.

I'm having a pool installed in southwest Florida. The PB put gravel underneath the entire bottom of the pool shell, put a 2" well point tube at the deep end that ran until the Gunite was shot, and the bottom has a 5 gallon pail sized hole intentionally in the bottom allowing for ground water relief.

About 20' away from my pool there is a 10' wide drainage culvert that in the height of summer will fill to about the hight of my pool and deeper than the depth of my pool (5.5’)

My PB seems very experienced and has installed pools in tidal areas where he had to trench around the whole pool with many pumps just to get the shell in. He indicated as long as the pool has water in it there really shouldn't be any concern with only hydrostatic drain caps

I'm curious about feedback from others. Does this seem fine to only have Hydrostatic drain caps and no ongoing sump pump or hydrostatic relief valves?

My yard has only flooded (not even a foot of water) once during a hurricane and that was after about 16" of rain in 24 hours. The drainage culvert connects to a large waterway that always pulls the water away effectively.

pictures attached showing about the level water currently fills in my pool (from underground water) although it’s not summer rain yet so I expect another foot or so higher.

Feedback from those with hydrostatic experience would be appreciated.
 

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He indicated as long as the pool has water in it there really shouldn't be any concern with only hydrostatic drain caps

Your PB is correct in what he said.

What does he expect you to do if you need to drain your pool for replastering or other maintenance?

Or if you get a leak and the pool drains itself?

I would want to know the water management plan for the pool area.

There are many pics and Youtube videos floatinga round of pools in FL popping out of the ground .
 
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PB says while I do have a high water line (bottom 2 feet will always have water), hydrostatic valve not needed and pool water will hold it down. He has concerns valve springs will rust out quickly and cause more trouble than help.

Also, he says because I have drainage (culvert that flows to the river) that works so well 20’ from the pool, that will keep water flowing without pool pressure.

Thoughts?
 
Whatever trouble a hydrostatic valve may cause will be less trouble then a popped pool will cause. If the valve springs rust then the valve is unscrewed and replaced. Not a big deal.

A popped pool is a big deal and what the valve prevents.

What should you do when the pool needs to be drained for replastering? Or your equipment pops a big leak and drains your pool while you area out? Which we have seen happen.

There are many pics on the net of popped Florida pools. Likely from builders like yours.
 
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I’m currently working with a local Lake Charles, LA PB in the design of our new IG pool. When I questioned him about hydrostatic relief valves, he says he always installs them in his pools here due to the issues with high water tables, heavy rainfall events (we just received 8“ - 15” yesterday with more rain forecast over the next few days), hurricanes, and storm surge events, etc. My concern, in your case, would be if that river floods or backs up due to a storm surge or sustained winds, you could lose your “pressure relief” source.
 
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Thank you both! I’ll insist on the valves. l’m going to buy some extras too.

My pipes look bigger than most (3” vs 1” wide). Any suggestions on ones that may be better made?
 

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