How often to add bleach and using a stainless brush

[djdonte]

Hello guys. I have been doing the traditional inline chloriator/cal hypo powder shock and I am intrigued with the site. Draining the pool every 1-2 years for CYA sucks. The only thing I cant figure out is how often do you have to add bleach? Is this an every day thing? Seems like a pain to deal with and also storing all this liquid. Also I noticed it seems to be a bit more expensive, as a 24 pack of powder on Amazon is less than 3 bucks a pound and the 10 percent bleach from Walmart is 3.29 or so a gallon. What am I missing? Also the local pinch a penny pool stores sell liquid chlorine. Not sure the strength but I think they want to sell you the container as well, and then refills after that.

One more newbie question. My pool is in need of replastering, so there are a few spots that are rough and I have a very hard time brushing algae from these spots with my usual nylon brush. Should I use a stainless brush for this before SLAMing? Will it damage my plaster even more?

Last test results were 10 FC, 0 CC, 50 CYA. Forget the pH but its right in the middle. I dialed the chlorinator down a bit to get back to 7 FC. The weather here is crazy right now. 40-50s one day and 80 the next so my sanitizer load keeps changing due to sunlight. Water is clear except for the faint green spots and filters are new but I will be cleaning them after I kill the last bit of green algae.

 

[mknauss]

Having algae in your pool is not a normal state. Most pool owners never truly eradicate it. The SLAM Process process eliminates the algae from your pool system. Then following the FC/CYA Levels for FC level keeps it away.

With liquid chlorine, yes, you need to add it daily. You may not play with your pet every day, but you need to feed it. Other options are a Stenner pump/tank system that adds liquid chlorine for you or a SaltWater Chlorine Generator. The TFPC process will give you water that will be sanitary, feels great, eliminates the 'chlorine' smell, and helps your bathing clothes and finishes to last much longer.

If your plaster is rough, it could be scale or it could be low pH over time has destroyed the plaster. A SS brush will damage it more if used regularly.

Take care. Be sure to read Pool School and especially the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry.

 

[Texas Splash]

DJ, you may want to checkout your local HEB for their regular Bravo bleach. That's what I use. It's been $2.94 per gallon (8.25%). My pool is larger than yours and I use very little this time of year (no algae of course). In the peak of summer, blazing-hot with no shade, I use about 1/2 gallon per day. Yours should be less. I keep a couple bottles in my laundry room and it works well. Checkout those links Marty provided and it should help.

 

[djdonte]

Thanks. The pool plaster is for sure eaten away, I know what scale looks like. The previous owners did not keep the pool up. I actually have to add acid every few months because the pH creeps up, so I haven't had any trouble with low pH, but again who knows what went on before I got this house a little over a year ago. A SWG is on the list for a future upgrade.

Is the stainless brush OK to use just to get the algae, then use the nylon for regular cleaning? What about those hybrid brushes?

 

[PoolGate]

Thanks. The pool plaster is for sure eaten away, I know what scale looks like. The previous owners did not keep the pool up. I actually have to add acid every few months because the pH creeps up, so I haven't had any trouble with low pH, but again who knows what went on before I got this house a little over a year ago. A SWG is on the list for a future upgrade.

Is the stainless brush OK to use just to get the algae, then use the nylon for regular cleaning? What about those hybrid brushes?

You are treating the symptoms, not the disease. If you properly care for your pool, your algae would go away and not come back. Consider the advice that was given above. Brushing algae off your walls does not get rid of it. It simply spreads it throughout your pool where it becomes harder to see. But it is still there. Your filter is merely a collection point for particulate matter. It does not sanitize your pool. Proper and consistent chlorine levels sanitize your pool.

 

[proavia]

What testkit are you using?

If you have algae, you need to SLAM Process. After a successful SLAM - if you follow TFP guidelines, you won't have algae.

Post a full set of test results from one of the recommended testkits.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temp

 

[djdonte]

Using the TFT kit.
Fc 7
Cc 0
Ph 7.4
TA 110
CH 450
CYA 50 (test is kind of subjective)
I usually do not measure temp.

Currently using tri chlor tabs and 65% cal hypo shock. Was thinking of scrubbing my the stubborn areas with the stainless brush, then doing about 20-30% water change to reduce CYA to 30 and make my SLAMing easier.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Each puck you add via that inline chlorinator is also raising your CYA level. When your CYA level raises, so also does your FC requirement. So if you're not keeping them in alignment you are inviting (unwittingly!) algae to the party.

Performing a SLAM on your current water can clear it up, brushing the plaster is important to get algae off the walls into the pool with the higher SLAM level chlorine so it gets killed. Otherwise algae sets up some biofilm on the walls to "cover" it over and protect it from the chlorine.
If you can get the pool cleared of algae via the SLAM you should be able to manage the water and then when you are ready for the new plaster you can start off on a great footing by managing things the TFP way.

Maddie

 

[mknauss]

The Cal Hypo shock adds calcium, which is raising your CH. Your TA is elevated and as your water temperature rises it is likely you will get into the scaling tendency area with your current pH and CH.

You can do what you need without draining, but up to you. A SLAM Process level of 20 ppm FC is not that big of a deal.

If you discontinue the use of Cal Hypo ('shock' is not needed in the TFP method) your CH will come down some due to dilution from rain water.

 

[djdonte]

Using the TFP method how do you know how much chlorine to add every day? You do need to test every single day or do you eye ball it? At 5ppm and over you need to do the drop test for chlorine and I’m going thru that solution quickly. Also if only using bleach, will I have to add cya at some point this summer or should I use pucks again for a bit?

 

[Texas Splash]

Using the TFP method how do you know how much chlorine to add every day?

Use the Poolmath app or PoolMath tool. Look for effects of adding chemicals. During the SLAM Process you'll need to watch it fairly often to maintain the proper FC level. After you pass the SLAM, you get to know your pool's eating habits and will test daily to verify you are at the proper level as noted on the FC/CYA Levels.

When using just bleach, your CYA should no longer increase. In the summer, I run an elevated CYA of 50-60 becasue of the sun. If your CYA starts to fall to 30-40, you may need to increase it at that time, but that's okay. Increasing CYA on purpose with a specific goal that you understand is perfectly fine.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

People often get to know their pool's personality. Knowing that pools will lose a couple of ppm of FC daily to the sun's "tax" plus whatever they lose due to bather load you can often predict what the pool needs. For some its pouring in a quart daily as a rule so it covers them routinely. Testing can often be extended to every other day as long as they know their pools "appetite" for chlorine.

Maddie

 

[djdonte]

Thanks guys. I am going to buys some of that 8 percent today at HEB and try to ditch the pucks except for vacations. Wonder if I should empty the chlorinator to stop it from gumming up or if I can just leave them in there. If my CYA is still 40-50, I am going to brush the stubborn spots with my stainless brush and start my SLAM. One more question. I feel like I am going thru the reagent used on the drop test.. can I cut my pool water with 50 percent distilled and double my reading like you can with the CYA test?

 

[mknauss]

Are you using the 10ml sample for your FAS-DPD testing? That reduces the reagent use.

During your SLAM, you can use a 5 ml sample and the each drop R0871 equals one ppm FC. But when you want to do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, be sure to use the 10 ml sample.

Cutting the sample with water for the FC test is not recommended.

 

[Texas Splash]

It's not as accurate, but in the early SLAM, you can use a 5 ml water sample, then each drop equals 1 ppm. Once things get settled and you feel like you need more accuracy, go back to the 10 ml sample and divide your count drop in half.

 

[djdonte]

Do I still add the same amount of powder for the FAS-DPD test or try to eyeball a half scoop?

 

[Texas Splash]

Do I still add the same amount of powder for the FAS-DPD test or try to eyeball a half scoop?

In theory you probably could use a little less, but I'd just stay with one level scoop on that one. No sense trying to split hairs. You'll go nuts.

 

[djdonte]

Wow my pool went from 20 to 12 ppm overnight so the chlorine is definitely eating something. CC Is still zero. Does this sound right? Also with the TFP method do I still need to shock every week when I clean the pool? I would figure if the FC is kept to the proper level I would only need to shock if I saw algae or after a party?

 

[mknauss]

You do have something in the pool. CC being zero is not an issue.

No 'shock'. Read Pool School. Maintaining your FC based on CYA levels never lets algae get a hold in your pool. Your old method of weekly 'shock' is meant to let you have algae in your water all the time and weekly 'shock' it to keep it just sort of under control.

If you see algae or cloudy water in the future, it means you did not maintain the FC/CYA ratio, and you need to SLAM Process.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Routine "shocking" is never needed in a TFP kept pool. Pool stores *love* to sell you on that idea so you'll keep buying expensive products but it just isn't necessary.

Now, if you have some reason to need to bring your pool up to SLAM level, say a kid poops in the pool or something, all you need to use is liquid chlorine or plain non-thickened, non scented, non-Clorox brand bleach.

If you see algae, you need to do a SLAM procedure which means bring it up to SLAM level but *maintain* it at that level until the algae is all killed and gone and the pool is crystal clear and your *testing* shows no contaminates are chewing thru your FC.

Soooo, to reiterate again, routine "shocking" is never a TFP need.

Maddie