How much Borax to add

A ph of 7.2 is fine- you can just aerate (point jets up or run water features) to increase ph without effecting ta. No chems needed.

What is your current ta & other results?
 
Thanks for responding!
TA is 80, total chlorine 7.5 (high), calcium hardness 180, stabilizer 80 salt 2900 (all ppm). I have Pinch-A-Penny test my water fairly regularly, and I try to keep an eye on just the chlorine and pH myself. Their paperwork indicates 7.4-7.6 is the ideal level, not sure if that is true or just their opinion.
 
Mary,
You will find that TFP ideal levels & pool store ideal levels often conflict for various reasons like, the motivation to sell you products (tfp sells nothing), along with following antiquated industry standards.
Your ph of 7.2 is a little low but requires no intervention, With a ta of 80 your ph will likely rise on it’s own.
Your chlorine level is not high, in fact it is right around target 🎯 for your cya if that is all free chlorine FC/CYA Levels.
Fc anywhere between minimum & slam level for your cya is fine & safe for people, equipment, & surfaces. Most here opt to run fc around high target or a scootch higher to allow for some cushion incase of higher bather load, equipment failure or other environmental factors.
One issue here is that you listed the total chlorine (tc) measurement which is the sum of fc (good stuff) + cc (bad stuff).
You need a proper test kit with an fas/dpd test to measure the two individually so you can be certain of your actual free chlorine level as cc’s (combined chlorine) over .5ppm warrants intervention.
All of the recommended kits-
(taylor k2006(c) salt or tf100/pro salt) contain this test as well as all the tests you need to properly & accurately test your own water, which is recommended over relying on the pool store
Test Kits Compared
 
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Mary,
You will find that TFP ideal levels & pool store ideal levels often conflict for various reasons like, the motivation to sell you products (tfp sells nothing), along with following antiquated industry standards.
Your ph of 7.2 is a little low but requires no intervention, With a ta of 80 your ph will likely rise on it’s own.
Your chlorine level is not high, in fact it is right around target 🎯 for your cya if that is all free chlorine FC/CYA Levels.
Fc anywhere between minimum & slam level for your cya is fine & safe for people, equipment, & surfaces. Most here opt to run fc around high target or a scootch higher to allow for some cushion incase of higher bather load, equipment failure or other environmental factors.
One issue here is that you listed the total chlorine (tc) measurement which is the sum of fc (good stuff) + cc (bad stuff).
You need a proper test kit with an fas/dpd test to measure the two individually so you can be certain of your actual free chlorine level as cc’s (combined chlorine) over .5ppm warrants intervention.
All of the recommended kits-
(taylor k2006(c) salt or tf100/pro salt) contain this test as well as all the tests you need to properly & accurately test your own water, which is recommended over relying on the pool store
Test Kits Compared
Mdragger88,
Many thanks for your detailed and prompt replies, I omitted the fact that the total chlorine was all free chlorine. I am reviewing your recommended test kits and am getting ready to order the Taylor K2006Csalt.
Happy holidays!
Mary
 
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I am reviewing your recommended test kits and am getting ready to order the Taylor K2006Csalt
Get the TF-100 Salt. Comes with the speed stir for about the same price. Speed stir makes test simple and accurate. One of my "I will fill the pool in without it" tools.
 

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