Worked fine last winter and spring, Didn't use it through the summer and now it won;'t fire. Knob inside is turned to on. any ideas where to start?
How do you trouble shoot a heater
- Thread starter CarrolltonTXPool
- Start date
Re: HOw do you trouble shoot a heater
If the unit doesn't do anything when turned on, the place to start is to measure the voltage at various steps along the safety protection switch circuit to see if any of the protection switches are keeping it turned off. In the electrical diagram this is the row of connections across the top from the transformer to the temperature control panel. Starting at the transformer you should be able to confirm 24 volts. Then check over at the control pane and see if the 24 volts is getting to there. If not, track back along the string of switches to see which of them is open.
If the unit doesn't do anything when turned on, the place to start is to measure the voltage at various steps along the safety protection switch circuit to see if any of the protection switches are keeping it turned off. In the electrical diagram this is the row of connections across the top from the transformer to the temperature control panel. Starting at the transformer you should be able to confirm 24 volts. Then check over at the control pane and see if the 24 volts is getting to there. If not, track back along the string of switches to see which of them is open.
i had a similar issue at the start of summer. The tech came out and used a jumper to test each of the connections. basically where you see two cables connected to the same piece of equipment use a jumper between them (remove them from the equipment and connect them using a copper cable with clamps on each end). This helped them isolate the issue within 5 minutes.
Did you try it in both the spa and pool switch positions? That will eliminate a chunk of the circuitry.
Mike
Mike
2, 20, 600. 20 what i use on car. Its just where the decimal is right guys?
Where its switched at now to make a noise on continuity .
Where its switched at now to make a noise on continuity .
You will want the meter set to ACV at the 200 mark. That will set the meter up to measure AC Volts, with the max range of 200.
I have a self powered version of the Lite2 (it generates all the power it needs from a generator heated by the pilot flame) and I've found the original manual that came with it has an excellent detailed electrical troubleshooting section, that if you follow to the letter, will isolate almost any fault. I had non-starting behaviors and after following the guide and replacing my pilot generator and low pressure switch it now works extremely well. Never-the-less, my setup is particularly sensitive to having a clean filter and the heater won't operate if my sand filter is anything more than half it's way towards needing to be backwashed.
Gregg
Gregg
Thanks for all the help. I will look for the manual from the previous owner. My volt meter battery wasn't working and I gone to the store twice and forgot to get a replacement 9 volt.
I thought the manual would have a good trouble shooting section but it doesn't look like it. The Jandy Lite 2 millivolt model I have has a great trouble shooting section. Never-the-less, being able to print out a schematic page, instead of bending over to study a schematic is definitely worth the price of admission.
Edit:
Here's the manual I was thinking of with a good section on theory of operation and troubleshooting (especially section 10.4.3 and on). The major difference between your model and the model in this manual is the operating voltage that the heater works off of. Instead of measuring 220-750mVDC at various locations, you should be seeing 24VAC. This manual along with the one that Mike linked to, should get you understanding what's happening.
http://www.propools.com/instructions_owners_manuals/laars-lite-2-LG-models.pdf
Edit:
Here's the manual I was thinking of with a good section on theory of operation and troubleshooting (especially section 10.4.3 and on). The major difference between your model and the model in this manual is the operating voltage that the heater works off of. Instead of measuring 220-750mVDC at various locations, you should be seeing 24VAC. This manual along with the one that Mike linked to, should get you understanding what's happening.
http://www.propools.com/instructions_owners_manuals/laars-lite-2-LG-models.pdf
Pool Clown
In The Industry
In your first post, you mentioned that "it did not fire", but does the fan come on?
Pool Clown
In The Industry
Ah, your right. Just saw the igniter and didn't bother to look for a blower on the shcem.
"He's a clown...Ignore him."
"He's a clown...Ignore him."
[attachment=0:23oglzpg]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358634398.638552.jpg[/attachment:23oglzpg]I am assuming this box is the transformer. Where do I but the black and red metal prongs from the voltmeter? I can't seemed to get a voltage. Starting to wonder if this things isn't getting power. It's wired into the rest of the power inside the timer box. And everything else works.
Attachments
This terminal is where the main wires come in from the timer box. [attachment=0:2c99d4ff]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358635361.770355.jpg[/attachment:2c99d4ff]
When I touch the red and black prongs of the volt meter to the same screw, nothing happens. Same on both screws. A little dash pops up next to the zeros but that's it.
When I touch the red and black prongs of the volt meter to the same screw, nothing happens. Same on both screws. A little dash pops up next to the zeros but that's it.
Attachments
This is where those two black words end up in the timer box. They come out of a feed line, are in separate twist connectors, then are the two black wires coming from the right. How can I test here?
[attachment=0:2fvd9efn]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358635699.303302.jpg[/attachment:2fvd9efn]
[attachment=0:2fvd9efn]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358635699.303302.jpg[/attachment:2fvd9efn]
Attachments
Those are the power in terminals (on the top right side of the schematic)
One probe of your meter on the black wire and one probe on the white wire should read 240v (or close)
If not, your breaker (sorry, looks like it's connected to your timer) in the panel is probably tripped.
EDIT: I'd be careful!!!!! If energized there will be 240v on those screws. Turn off the breaker and try to remove those wires and clean.
It appears to be overheated and burned.
One probe of your meter on the black wire and one probe on the white wire should read 240v (or close)
If not, your breaker (sorry, looks like it's connected to your timer) in the panel is probably tripped.
EDIT: I'd be careful!!!!! If energized there will be 240v on those screws. Turn off the breaker and try to remove those wires and clean.
It appears to be overheated and burned.
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