How do I read this pH color on TF-Pro kit comparator block?

[just4747]

Hi all. Sould I be interpreting this pH color as higher than the max 8.2 reading it gives in the center, or is it supposed to be similar to the 7.8 color but just a redder/darker version opposed to the pink/hot pink that it shows as the example?

As you can see, the pool water with the 5 drops of regeant is more in the red spectrum and also darker than the more pink and washed out colors of the block's sample colors. I am not sure if I should be "stretching" the similarity to "make" it match one of the colors shown in my mind, or if it genuinely means it is probably a higher reading than any of the colors/numbers show. It's tough to figure out when the shade of my water is slightly off compared to any of the example colors.

Thanks.

 

[mknauss]

Above 8 pH begins purple tones. Yours does not have that. So it is in the upper 7's.

Use 4 drops of reagent next time.

 

[just4747]

Above 8 pH begins purple tones. Yours does not have that. So it is in the upper 7's.

Use 4 drops of reagent next time.

Thanks. Can you explain why 4 instead of 5? I'm sure there is good reason but wondering since it obviously goes against directions (the last thing I would think without knowing any better is that a different number of drops would simply show an inaccurate measurement).

Thanks.

 

[CreedenceTapes]

Thanks. Can you explain why 4 instead of 5? I'm sure there is good reason but wondering since it obviously goes against directions (the last thing I would think without knowing any better is that a different number of drops would simply show an inaccurate measurement).

Thanks.

The color won't be as saturated and will match the reference tones on the block better. The most important thing is the value of the color, not the intensity of the color.

 

[duraleigh]

Are those shadows in the pH sample section of the comparator block? Sample doesn't appear well mixed......must be shadows, right?

 

[just4747]

Are those shadows in the pH sample section of the comparator block? Sample doesn't appear well mixed......must be shadows, right?

Yes just shadows. Was kinda hard to hold up the block back from the paper and also take a pic lol. It looked better in person. The liquid was shaken/mixed well.

 

[just4747]

The color won't be as saturated and will match the reference tones on the block better. The most important thing is the value of the color, not the intensity of the color.

Great info, thanks!

 

[just4747]

I did a new check today and did 4 drops for pH and 5 again for CL. Would you all agree this is showing 2 for CL and about 7.8 for pH? 2 pics attached.

 

[Household6]

I did a new check today and did 4 drops for pH and 5 again for CL. Would you all agree this is showing 2 for CL and about 7.8 for pH? 2 pics attached.

There ya go!
I’d call that a 7.8.

 

[PoolStored]

What this tells me is that you have some FC in the water (its yellow). Your pH is 7.8.

What test kit do you have? Do you have a FAS-DPD test?

 

[just4747]

What this tells me is that you have some FC in the water (its yellow). Your pH is 7.8.

What test kit do you have? Do you have a FAS-DPD test?

Thanks. So for pH, I should be good as-is but want to watch it to make sure it doesn't go any higher?

I have the TF-Pro. I just did the chlorine drop test as well (this is the FAS-DPD test right?). I do know most people don't really go by the CL reading in the block much. I got the following numbers if I did it correctly:

FC=2ppm
CC=.5ppm
TC=2.5ppm

Does that make sense even though I haven't given any other info? I assume this would mean that my free chlorine is right in range (1-3), my combined chlorine isn't bad but should still be 0, and my total chlorine is 1 higher than the free chlorine and should equal the free chlorine number.

Do I have that all correct? And in this case, should I simply turn my SWG up one level? (It is currently set to 40% and runs from 9-4pm every day)? Or do I need to actually use some liquid chlorine?

Thanks!

 

[PoolStored]

Makes sense. However, your chlorine may or may not be in range. Your FC should be what is needed for your CYA. Read this link-->FC/CYA Levels

Post a full set of test results.

Use liquid chlorine to raise your FC. Change your pump time or SWCG output to keep your FC steady and in range for your CYA.

 

[PoolStored]

Since you are new to this, target your FC at the top of the recommended range for your CYA.

 

[just4747]

Makes sense. However, your chlorine may or may not be in range. Your FC should be what is needed for your CYA. Read this link-->FC/CYA Levels

Post a full set of test results.

Use liquid chlorine to raise your FC. Change your pump time or SWCG output to keep your FC steady and in range for your CYA.

So I did my CYA test last night using the CYA view tube and even filled up to the very top I could still just barely see the black dot. I assume this means I have somewhere near 20 or even lower (none?) CYA levels. I definitely need to add some stabilizer, just not sure quite how much yet.

But knowing that, what does that mean for my Chlorine levels? I am looking at the link you sent me now but still trying to learn what it is telling me.

Also I got the other following numbers:
CH: 125ppm
TA: 80

 

[just4747]

Makes sense. However, your chlorine may or may not be in range. Your FC should be what is needed for your CYA. Read this link-->FC/CYA Levels

Post a full set of test results.

Use liquid chlorine to raise your FC. Change your pump time or SWCG output to keep your FC steady and in range for your CYA.

Aso I had edited my post about the CH levels and added some pH questions and a few other edits. Would you mind checking that info as well? Thanks.

 

[PoolStored]

Add enough chlorine stabilizer to raise CYA 20ppm. Use the sock method.

CH and TA are just fine. CH isn't necessary in a vinyl pool, so I don't even test for it.

I don't see any edits. Best not to edit, just make another post.

But knowing that, what does that mean for my Chlorine levels?

Let's assume we get you to 30 CYA. Then, your target range for FC is 3-6. You should always maintain 3-6 in the water. Minimum is lava.

 

[just4747]

Add enough chlorine stabilizer to raise CYA 20ppm. Use the sock method.

CH and TA are just fine. CH isn't necessary in a vinyl pool, so I don't even test for it.

I don't see any edits. Best not to edit, just make another post.


Let's assume we get you to 30 CYA. Then, your target range for FC is 3-6. You should always maintain 3-6 in the water. Minimum is lava.

View attachment 579090

I just added this unless you saw it already. Is this accurate?:
For pH, I should be good as-is with the 7.8 but want to watch it to make sure it doesn't go any higher?

Didn't realize that about CH - I guess I shouldn't bother with it then either. I'm surprised I hadn't read that about vinyl pools and CH in all my reading so far.

Will do with stabilizer. I have granular and was going to try the sock or skimmer mesh sock method. Is an actual thicker sock a better bet than a thinner mesh skimmer sock? How about in skimmer vs tied in front of return jet? I read different opinions.

Lol what does minimum is lava mean? I'm sure it's obvious but not getting it.

Thanks again.

 

[just4747]

Add enough chlorine stabilizer to raise CYA 20ppm. Use the sock method.

CH and TA are just fine. CH isn't necessary in a vinyl pool, so I don't even test for it.

I don't see any edits. Best not to edit, just make another post.


Let's assume we get you to 30 CYA. Then, your target range for FC is 3-6. You should always maintain 3-6 in the water. Minimum is lava.

View attachment 579090

Don't I want to get my CYA to 60-90 since I have a SWG?

 

[PoolStored]

For pH, I should be good as-is with the 7.8 but want to watch it to make sure it doesn't go any higher?

It is fine. Any pH in the 7s is ok. pH rises naturally. The higher your TA the faster it will rise. With a TA of 80, pH should be pretty stable around 7.8-8. Don't force ph down below 7.8 with that TA.

Sock doesn't matter the type.

Ever play the lava game? The floor is lava? Don't go there...

 

[PoolStored]

Don't I want to get my CYA to 60-90 since I have a SWG?

Yes, let's go there in increments. You are learning. Let's get it to 30, then we go up from there. We'll use it as a learning tool for adding CYA and getting accurate results.

Have you done this test yet? Do it tonight. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test