How do I install my new pump?

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nostaljake

Active member
Jul 9, 2023
34
Bethesda, MD
Pool Size
12480
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
My pump kicked the can last week, so I have a new Calimar pump on the way (1.5 HP since the 3 HP is out of stock). However, I'm new to this whole pool ownership game, and it seems the previous stewards of the equipment pad didn't leave me with a lot to work with. See attached photos! You can see the area right before the pump is a mess with some kind of puddy or something.

Where should I even cut to begin working? I marked the only spot that comes to mind for me, but I don't know if there's enough space to install a new coupling there. How much room do you need? Or should I start somewhere else?
 

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nostaljake said:
My pump kicked the can last week, so I have a new Calimar pump on the way (1.5 HP since the 3 HP is out of stock). However, I'm new to this whole pool ownership game, and it seems the previous stewards of the equipment pad didn't leave me with a lot to work with. See attached photos! You can see the area right before the pump is a mess with some kind of puddy or something.

Where should I even cut to begin working? I marked the only spot that comes to mind for me, but I don't know if there's enough space to install a new coupling there. How much room do you need? Or should I start somewhere else?
Click to expand...
That looks to be a 1.5" check valve. If you want to keep it, break some of the epoxy off you will see the black portion of the valve body toward the pump. Cut the pipe as flush with that as you can. Clean the valve body and install a 2" coupler over that port and go from there.
 
1poolman1 said:
That looks to be a 1.5" check valve. If you want to keep it, break some of the epoxy off you will see the black portion of the valve body toward the pump. Cut the pipe as flush with that as you can. Clean the valve body and install a 2" coupler over that port and go from there.
Click to expand...

Sweet, thanks! Is it safe to use acetone or alcohol to help remove the epoxy and clean up the check valve?

So If I'm understanding the plan, I would be going like this: check valve --> 2" coupler --> 2" PVC --> union --> pump. I'm a little concerned about running out of space as there's a brick wall behind the pump and I believe (?) you're supposed to leave 3" of room too. But I guess I'll need to get everything in hand to measure first.
 
nostaljake said:
Sweet, thanks! Is it safe to use acetone or alcohol to help remove the epoxy and clean up the check valve?

So If I'm understanding the plan, I would be going like this: check valve --> 2" coupler --> 2" PVC --> union --> pump. I'm a little concerned about running out of space as there's a brick wall behind the pump and I believe (?) you're supposed to leave 3" of room too. But I guess I'll need to get everything in hand to measure first.
Click to expand...
NO! Do not use a solvent on the plastic. It will probably come off by tapping on it or sanding. It really doesn't stick all that well, especially after a few years.

Is your equipment far above the pool? If not, the check valve isn't really needed and you could cut the pipe flush with the 3-way valve next in line, install a 1.5" pipe extender into the pipe in the valve and go from there. It would give you a lot more room. A 1.5" coupler and your good. The Calimar 1.5HP VSP has 1.5" ports. Get 1.5" High-Temp unions for the install. They seal with an O ring, not Teflon tape.

shopping
22547_1_2013312133653.jpg
 
1poolman1 said:
NO! Do not use a solvent on the plastic. It will probably come off by tapping on it or sanding. It really doesn't stick all that well, especially after a few years.

Is your equipment far above the pool? If not, the check valve isn't really needed and you could cut the pipe flush with the 3-way valve next in line, install a 1.5" pipe extender into the pipe in the valve and go from there. It would give you a lot more room. A 1.5" coupler and your good. The Calimar 1.5HP VSP has 1.5" ports. Get 1.5" High-Temp unions for the install. They seal with an O ring, not Teflon tape.

shopping
22547_1_2013312133653.jpg
Click to expand...

Phew, thanks! I'll try to remove the epoxy by tapping and sanding.

The equipment pad is indeed high above the pool, maybe like 6 ft or so. That said, I've never been able to get the pump to prime by itself, so I don't know if the check valves are helping enough anyway. Not sure if the problem was with the pump lid or the epoxy connection or if maybe the lines are just too high and far away from the pool.

Sorry to be so helpless, but do you have any recommendations for high-temp 1.5" unions that will work for the pump? I looked through some threads here and on Amazon but I'm only seeing 2" unions. I assume the unions come with the O-rings?
 
nostaljake said:
This one, maybe? Link

Edit: Hmm, any concern with it being listed as NPT instead of MIP? There's also this Hayward one.
Click to expand...
Not sure the first one is high-temp, Hayward definitely is not. NPT (National Pipe Thread) and MIP (Male Iron Pipe) are the same. However, high-temp unions are neither, but use a thread that will tighten into a NPT port and then seal with an O ring. NPT and MIP threads are tapered to seal using the threads and sealant. I've always used some Teflon tape on the threads, but that is just my way of being cautious.
High-temp unions cost a bit more but are well worth the expense. Newdude's recommendation is about the best price you will find.
 
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@1poolman1 @Newdude

Thank you sirs!

This is probably a dumb question, but I received the pump today and there's a sticker on it that says "this pump must be installed with a two, multi, or variable speed pump motor control".

Am I misunderstanding something, or don't these pumps have a control system built right into them? Is the Calimar going to work on my old single-speed electric setup, which is connected to an intermatic timer? Or would I need a whole new set of electrical equipment?
 
To the best of my knowledge, it just needs to be wired to the appropriate electric with a timer if 24/7 operation isn't it the plans. Both of my pumps were hard wired straight to the pool panel breaker with 24/7 in mind, but I'll defer to @1poolman1 who has installed every pump he has ever installed more than me. :ROFLMAO:
 

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Newdude said:
To the best of my knowledge, it just needs to be wired to the appropriate electric with a timer if 24/7 operation isn't it the plans. Both of my pumps were hard wired straight to the pool panel breaker with 24/7 in mind, but I'll defer to @1poolman1 who has installed every pump he has ever installed more than me. :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'm planning to run it 24/7. Just want to be sure it doesn't need some special wiring or something that I don't have before I get started. I don't understand electrical stuff at all 😕😅
 
nostaljake said:
This is probably a dumb question, but I received the pump today and there's a sticker on it that says "this pump must be installed with a two, multi, or variable speed pump motor control".
Click to expand...

Show us some pics of what you got so we are all on the same page with what you are installing.

That is a strange sticker and does not make a lot of sense what they are expecting you to do.

Did the pump come with a printed Installation Manual?
 
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