Hoping for HELP to identify this pool.
- Thread starter poolstupid
- Start date
I know you've sort of moved on from trying to find out the manufacturer of the pool, but we got our pool from Ambassador Pools last year and it sounds (although doesn't really look) like yours. Steel walls, metal deck that is attached to the pool. (Our deck actually goes all the way around, it's just a smaller walkway around most of it.
I figured out what it is. It is a delair manufactured pool. It was sold as a pool kit under the name of Tidal Wave Pool- style was summer dunes. It was manufactured in 2007.
OKAY QUESTION- I have two returns. One cut out has the plug with an eye, and the other doesn't. Why would that be? Do I need to find another eye? Is there something I am missing here? Oh... and that jerk failed to let us know the pressure gage on the filter was broken. What a jerk....
OKAY QUESTION- I have two returns. One cut out has the plug with an eye, and the other doesn't. Why would that be? Do I need to find another eye? Is there something I am missing here? Oh... and that jerk failed to let us know the pressure gage on the filter was broken. What a jerk....
It most likely go taken out and lost. They're not too expensve and it'd be good to have them both in. I'd go with 1" dia. You can get a new pressure gauge while you're at it.
Okay... so what do I do with these unsightly hoses running around the pool circumference? Do people bury them? Cover them with stones? Ideas? I will go take some pictures. I ordered the eye yesterday. We are using a redneck way of getting into the pool right now.... until I can find a good deal on a ladder system. Other than that, I think we are doing good. Except, pool chemistry. I am going back to the POOl School.... husband put shock in it not knowing I intended on consulting 
Well, if there isn't anything else in it shock probably won't hurt at all. Just tell him no more until you get the pool chemistry settled.
Most people run hard pipe and bury it, but you can bury hoses too. Just make sure there are no sharp stones in the fill dirt that would puncture them if you stepped on it.
Okay, I need help. I did the test kit this morning because we had to add water with the skimmer finally in place. Never mind the fact I need to order a new strainer housing or buy a new pump all-together because it is leaking. (That jerk that sold me the pool is a real prize!). Anyway, here are my readings.....
FC= O (weird...)
PH= 7.5 (it was inbetween)
Total ALk= 240
Calc hardness= 260
CYN= off the chart. The black dot in the small test tube vial never disappeared.
Why would Cyanuric Acid be so dang high? Am I going to have to drain the pool and start over?
HELP- we are having a heat wave 94+ HEAT!
FC= O (weird...)
PH= 7.5 (it was inbetween)
Total ALk= 240
Calc hardness= 260
CYN= off the chart. The black dot in the small test tube vial never disappeared.
Why would Cyanuric Acid be so dang high? Am I going to have to drain the pool and start over?
HELP- we are having a heat wave 94+ HEAT!
If the dot never disappears the CYA is too low, not too high. That is why you also have no FC. CYA is like sunscreen for your FC. When you have no CYA your FC burns off within hours in the sun. Have you added any CYA to the pool? What have you been using to chlorinate your pool?
As far as the pump goes, describe the leak (how much water, where it is located on the pump). It is possible it may only need new seals or o-rings.
As far as the pump goes, describe the leak (how much water, where it is located on the pump). It is possible it may only need new seals or o-rings.
I am using the stable chlorine granules. It is a 26, 300 gal pool (when you subtract the space from middle of skimmer and up). So, chlorinating granules. I get a big bucket, put warm water in and just added 12 ounces of it since I had 0 on the test. We are supposed to have company over today... not sure if the pool is safe to use. The crack is from above where the water comes in, down to the threading on the housing. I can run it and the leak stops, but when it isn't running it has a continuous leak. I bought some Weld on (like apoxy) from a pool store, but husband says we might as well replace the strainer housing. However, I am not sure what pump this is. I know it is a hayward but there are many different ones and I am not sure on which part to order.
If the CYA is too low, what do I add to get it up to par. I will have to go buy something today so the chlorine isn't burnt off by the sun. The pool is in direct sunlight ALL DAY and into the evening too!
If the CYA is too low, what do I add to get it up to par. I will have to go buy something today so the chlorine isn't burnt off by the sun. The pool is in direct sunlight ALL DAY and into the evening too!
I am a bit confused. My Total Alkalinity is 180. It took 18 drops that I multiplied by ten.... and my PH has drifted up toward the 7.7-7.8 color. The chlorine tested at O (free Chlorine) and 2ppm for combined.
To be honest, I am not sure that I understand the chemistry part of all of this. I have read pool school. I follow the instructions. I am confused.... I have been using the granules and my pool is in DIRECT sunlight all day long. Are my numbers way off??
To be honest, I am not sure that I understand the chemistry part of all of this. I have read pool school. I follow the instructions. I am confused.... I have been using the granules and my pool is in DIRECT sunlight all day long. Are my numbers way off??
aa62579
0
If you have CC of 2, you've got something growing in there and should shock. FC of 0 is bad. CYA of 0 is bad. You need to get some bleach in there ASAP.
If others agree that you need to shock, you will want to get some CYA (you can buy it at wal-mart, pool store, etc.) and use the pool calculator to figure out how much to add to reach 20 or so. Put it in a sock in the pool. Plug 20 in as your CYA and you want your target FC to be 10. Add that amount of bleach. Test as often as you can, hourly as possible, and keep your FC above 10 until you have completed the shock process. You will want to read up on this in pool school. After shocking, you will want to add more CYA to raise it up closer to 40.
If you don't shock, at the very least, this is what you need to do: Go and buy some CYA. Use the pool calculator to figure out how much you will need to reach a CYA of 40. Add this in a sock. Aim for a FC closer to 3-4 the first day and after 24 hours, you need to start keeping it at 5, never letting it fall below 3. If you find that it falls below 3 each day, you may need to aim for 6-7 as a target FC.
If others agree that you need to shock, you will want to get some CYA (you can buy it at wal-mart, pool store, etc.) and use the pool calculator to figure out how much to add to reach 20 or so. Put it in a sock in the pool. Plug 20 in as your CYA and you want your target FC to be 10. Add that amount of bleach. Test as often as you can, hourly as possible, and keep your FC above 10 until you have completed the shock process. You will want to read up on this in pool school. After shocking, you will want to add more CYA to raise it up closer to 40.
If you don't shock, at the very least, this is what you need to do: Go and buy some CYA. Use the pool calculator to figure out how much you will need to reach a CYA of 40. Add this in a sock. Aim for a FC closer to 3-4 the first day and after 24 hours, you need to start keeping it at 5, never letting it fall below 3. If you find that it falls below 3 each day, you may need to aim for 6-7 as a target FC.
aa62579
0
With a TA of 180, your pH will probably tend to drift up. Go to the hardware or big box store and get a gallon or two or muriatic acid. Plug in your gallons and TA in the pool calculator. Put your 7.8 number as now pH and you want to change your Target pH to 7.0. That will tell you how much MA to add. Over time your pH will drift back up and you will need to repeat this process. This will take care of TA.
Do you know how much chlorine you've added since it's been filled?
You definitely need to shock. Add enough stabilizer to get to about 30 ppm using the Pool Calc then shock with liquid chlorine (bleach).
You definitely need to shock. Add enough stabilizer to get to about 30 ppm using the Pool Calc then shock with liquid chlorine (bleach).
aa62579
0
I said 20, but I would follow Bama's recommendation of 30 for the CYA target. You will then want to shoot for 12 as your shock FC value.
But when I do the cya test, the black dot never disappears.... so this means I need to add some muriatic Acid. THEN, I shock? Is this correct? I read pool school and I am so confused.... See, told ya! Pool stupid here....
If you're using equal amounts of R-0013 and pool water and the dot never disappears when looking directly down the top of the tube then you need to add cyanuric acid (stabilizer) not muriatic acid.
Okay... so what is the stabilizer that I use? Just shock? Is this the stabilizer or do I go buy something special?
Neither borax nor "shock" is cyanuric acid (though some forms of "shock" do contain some, they're mainly chlorine). Check the Pool School article on "Recommended Pool Chemicals."