I'm not sure where you look for parts like this, but I always look at McMasterCarr first. They pretty much have everything you could imagine.mas985 said:There might be another solution although I haven't found the parts for it yet. If you use some sort of adjustable pressure release valve that will only open at a higher pressure, then the valve would open under high suction from the pump but close under the lower pressure without the pump.
I am still looking for a likely candidate for this.
Yea, most acid dispensing systems in general are also very expensive which is why I started looking for a cheaper solution. I think that most of the issues can eventually be addressed by the folks on this forum which is why I posted this before I found all of the solutions. I figured others may have ideas that will help with some of these issues.lovingHDTV said:I'm not sure where you look for parts like this, but I always look at McMasterCarr first. They pretty much have everything you could imagine.
Thanks, I'll take a look at that.
They have a PVC corrosion resistant needle valve with 1/8" connectors for ~$20 that I thought looked intersting if you just wanted to adjust a valve instead of the buttons. I thought about measuring the flow rate in the hose, then using a marker to mark the distance the mixture needed to travel in the hose to give me my needed flow. I could then use that as a flow meter to adjust the needle valve.
That should work fine. The only reason I went with the buttons were that they were easy to find and cheap. They also are not suppose to clog but I don't think that is a real issue with the extremely slow flow rates. Any particulates would not travel very far anyway.
Flow meters to measure this low flow rate were in the $700 range! So I figured I could create my own.
I hope this makes some sense.
The type I used where 1/2 GPH Raindrip buttons from Home Depot and they use a labyrinth structure in the button so it has a fixed flow rate for a fixed pressure loss. If you cut one open, you can see a rubber insert with a very small zig zag channel. If you can see through it, then it probably isn't the correct type of drip irrigation buttons.schwim said:I tried this set up yesterday. I put 7x 1/2 GPH buttons in line to the suction side drain on my pump. I didn't see that much of a change in the draw rate when comparing with and without them. My 1 gallon container would have been empty in about 20 minutes.
I also noticed the buttons seem to be "straight through". That is, if I look through them, they look wide open, with no flow pathway. Is this what they should look like?
Hmm, yeah, I thought that was what I bought, but apparently this isn't the case.mas985 said:The type I used where 1/2 GPH Raindrip buttons from Home Depot and they use a labyrinth structure in the button so it has a fixed flow rate for a fixed pressure loss. If you cut one open, you can see a rubber insert with a very small zig zag channel. If you can see through it, then it probably isn't the correct type of drip irrigation buttons.
OK, here are my results far:schwim said:The SW05 work, but 10 in series pulls 8 oz in 30 minutes. Trying with 5 in series to see if there is benefit to running them in series.
It worked for just under 3 weeks. The drip buttons became clogged with white crystals and the flow just plain stopped. I suspect this is the "white stuff" others have mentioned in the forum.cd said:Could you give an update on how the set-ups are working?
Yes, this was my experience. Crystalization of the chlorine breaks it.mas985 said:This set up is probably more suitable for acid dosing rather than chlorine dosing because of some of the crystal problems associated with chlorine. This is probably why the liquidator was designed the way it was so the crystals are less of a problem.