High pressure, New equipment?

[fire29]

Figured Id revisit a conversation I had on here last year. I have a 2 HP hayward pump. Its big, its old and it eats electricity like crazy. Also have a Taglus TA60D sand filter.
That convo here: What is this return/control/nozzle? and filter pressure question

Paid a company to do a full sand change this winter, check the laterals, and gave it a clean bill of health.

Im having a starting pressure of 20PSI at the pump wasting, backwashing 30 pump (filter 26) & 35 pump/Filter 30) operating (following a good backwash), following this cleanout/replace. Wondering if I can do a different pump or if I really need to look at a whole new filter. Per the conversation I had with Mas985 last year on here, that was still high.

At a basic, Id love to see about getting a cheaper to run pump regardless here.

 

[JohnT]

If your pump is available in smaller HP ratings, you can install a smaller impeller and reduce both filter pressure and electricity consumption.

 

[fire29]

Im not worried so much on the filter pressure (its rated to 50).

I dont see how a smaller impeller will reduce electricity usage, motor is still gonna spin the same.

 

[1poolman1]

Im not worried so much on the filter pressure (its rated to 50).

I dont see how a smaller impeller will reduce electricity usage, motor is still gonna spin the same.

Down sizing the pump (smaller impeller) was always recommended in the late 1980s and up until the advent of VSPs. Its still a good way to save energy without the expense of a VSP.
Regardless the motor rpm, a smaller impeller will do less work and use less electricity. Put a 10hp motor on a 1hp pump/impeller combo and you will have a 1hp pump doing 1hp worth of work. Pump motors are always matched to the impeller. A 2hp Hayward pump has an impeller that is rated at doing the work of 2hp and needs a motor that will handle that load.
In the 90s, after attending Sta-Rite Water University training and being taught these basics, I started downsizing pumps. With a meter you can see the energy being used both before and after the change. I always offered to change it back for free if there were water-quality issues. Not done ever.
The most common ones that I did were 1.5hp Sta-Rite pumps taken down to 3/4 with a new impeller (seal and Orings, etc.). Virtually every time there was a 40%-45% reduction in energy usage. Still had the 1.5hp motor and that uses more energy than a 3/4 on its own. Once saw 50%.
If you really want to save energy, get a variable-speed motor and install it on that 2hp pump (if its a NorthStar that may be difficult).

 

[JohnT]

Im not worried so much on the filter pressure (its rated to 50).

I dont see how a smaller impeller will reduce electricity usage, motor is still gonna spin the same.

Motor current is determined by load only. Every motor uses the same current spinning the same impeller.

 

[fire29]

If you really want to save energy, get a variable-speed motor and install it on that 2hp pump (if its a NorthStar that may be difficult).

Got any you recommend?

 

[1poolman1]

Got any you recommend?

NorthStar? Automation?

 

[1poolman1]

NorthStar? Automation?

If it is a NorthStar, the way the locking collar is set will usually not allow for another type motor to be installed. The motors made for those pumps had a higher service factor and different capacitor "bump" location on the motor to let that collar set in the right position.
If you have new enough Hayward automation you will need a Hayward VSP. Even the TriStar XE will work, but you will only have relay control.

 

[fire29]

Its a hayward super 2. Theres a picture of it in my profile. Someone on here said it was made in Aug of 1996, which I highly doubt it supports any automation... Im not looking for any automation anyway. I have a manual oldschool hot water timer in the system that works great. Mainly just looking to reduce the power usage overall.

Im open to downsizing the impeller, what sort of company would I need to enquire with to purchase such a kit, etc?