High Cyanuric Acid and phosphates

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Yeah it does. The system is geared and is run by the flow. So the lower the flow, the slower the manifold inside of the box changes the jets. But I suppose that is good because with less water flow, it will be less effective.. So if it takes longer it is sort of a wash.

And it sounds like in your case the 50%/50% is the right option. Go ahead and try it for a couple of days, you won't break anything and you will save electricity.
 
So my teat arrived tonight but it's past 9pm and dark outside. Since it will be my first time running the tests and it requires visual color verification, should I just pour 3/4 of LC tonight and wait until tomorrow morning to run the tests.
Also would it be better to run the tests indoor tomorrow vs outdoor in sunlight and high temp.
Thank you!
 
Add your chlorine for tonight.
Do the tests in the morning. Best to have bright sunshine for the CYA test. Temperature does not matter.
 
Rattus Suffocatus said:
Yeah it does. The system is geared and is run by the flow. So the lower the flow, the slower the manifold inside of the box changes the jets. But I suppose that is good because with less water flow, it will be less effective.. So if it takes longer it is sort of a wash.

And it sounds like in your case the 50%/50% is the right option. Go ahead and try it for a couple of days, you won't break anything and you will save electricity.
Click to expand...
So at 900 rpm, the infloor heads are barely lifted and you can't feel the water flow around the head unless you are really close to it. I am not sure if it's even high enough to make the heads rotate for the next cycle.
I guess as you said, on low rpm, only the skimmer really works.
Do your infloor heads come up off the floor at 900rpm? I changed mine to 1400rpm and still not much higher than the pool floor.. thanks
 
The website was down all day for me due to the dns change. I ran the tests this morning and got the following results. Not sure how accurate it is being a rookie:
FC= 7ppm
CC= 1ppm - barely changed to an extremely light pink after the 5 drops of R-0003 and back to clear with 2 drops
CH= 500ppm
TA=150-170ppm turned more pink at 150 vs red
CYA= 60
CL=5, BR=10
PH= 7.5

It's almost 11pm, should I still add the 3/4 LC tonight?
What is the next step tomorrow based on the results above. I still had some green on the walls today and had to brush
Thanks
 
Yeah! your first test results... they look like you did them right.
So This thread has been going on a while and I forget where we are on things. If I recall we were waiting to see what your values were with your new test kit before starting a SLAM. Your CYA is still high for a liquid chlorine pool it would be best to be around 30-40. see the FC/CYA Levels. SLAM level for a CYA of 60 is 24. So I would tend to recommend you drain some more water to get your CYA down a bit more before you SLAM... that will use less chlorine and it will be more effective.
And yes keep brushing and adding the FC to keep the algae at bay.
 
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So I'll have to read about the slam to know what to do.

I drained for 2 and half days about 15,500 gal and my pool is 15,000. How much more should I drain and should I do the same as in drain from deep fill from shallow? Water from the hose is at first hot but then close to pool temp or a little cooler than pool temp.

Also since it's almost midnight should I still do the 3/4 gal of LC for tonight? Which is what I did for the last 3 days while waiting for the test kit.
Thanks
 
Yes keep adding CL.. that is keeping the algae in check until we can get the SLAM going.

If your pool is at a CYA of 60 and you want to get closer to 30 you'll need to exchange about half of your pools volume. You should have a good idea how long that takes by now correct?... Did you calculate how much water is exchanged per hour? You want to go about half the volume of your pool. Maybe go a quarter and measure again in case you are unsure.

Great job by the way. You ask a lot of questions and don't get frustrated. Hang in there. (y)
 

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I was able to get about 5gal for 64 seconds if I recall correctly. Therefore if I want to get 7500 gal will 26.5 hours.
When I did the CYA test I added a little too much of the first chemical, I went a little above the top of the sticker. And when I did the visual test with the black dot, I kept going until it completely disappeared.
Adding liquid chlorine now, it's 2am. Thanks
 
I would say this, I was expecting the hose temp to be wamer than the pool temp here in az, however when I was feeling up the pool last week, on the shallow end, the hose temp was definitely cooler that the pool water on that shallow end.
Now the temp on the deep end is always a little cooler compared to the shallow end (summer months in AZ),
I therefore estimated that the hose water we put in the pool at the shallow end was probably the same temp as the water being removed on the deep wnd.

Thanks
 
So I apologize for the upcoming long post. I re-read the entire thread from day 1 and all the articles including the slam process. I have a lot of questions but I want to focus on the slam and the algae.

I've never done the slam so here we go:
- My test shows CYA of 60, a PH of 7 5 and CC of 1ppm => seems like I meet the starting criterias of the slam
- The chart for a CYA of 60 and non salt pool shows 24, so my goal is to get to an FC of 24 until I am done with slam
- I have questions about the calculator but from what I could come up with, in order to get to 24 FC I need 3.6 gal of LC at 10%.

If anything above is incorrect please let me know. Here are my questions:
- To raise my FC to 24, does it matter what is my current FC or do I just add 3.6 gal of LC?
- How much Chlorine should I buy, at 3.6 gal to get it to 24, should I buy 10 gal or so for the slam process at least as a start?
- During slam can one swim? (Had to ask pool looks pretty good but I know I am not done, kids are eager to get back in)
- During slam can I get in the pool (physically) to brush? Corners, light and stairs are not easy to clean with the pole.
- I don't know if my CC level test is accurate, the liquid barely changed to an extremely light pink after the 5 drops of R-0003. Is this normal/common?
- What does increase the CYA? By adding so much FC would that increase the CYA and therefore increase the slam FC level needed?
- When I am done with slam, can the CYA be lowered from 60 to 40 in order to have a lower FC need to maintain?
- Calculator doesn't have a pebble tec option, what should I pick and is my 3.6gal of 10%LC accurate to get to the 24FC?
Thank you all and @mknauss for all your help.
 
OK -- let me tackle these. If I miss one, let me know.
Lower your pH to 7.2. Use muriatic acid.
SLAM level FC is 24 ppm. Input your current test results in Poomath and save them, touch the FC, a screen comes up. Toggle to SLAM. Should show your current FC and 24 ppm to target. Also should show how much 10% bleach to use.

I would get at least 10 gallons. Maybe 15. You will need it after the SLAM as that is how you will maintain your FC every day.
It is safe to swim with FC at or below SLAM level FC. No issue.
You can get in to brush more thoroughly in hard to reach spots.
Don't worry about CC right now. When your pool is crystal clear, you will do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Test the CC in the morning of that process.
Trichlor, dichlor, and stabilizer/conditioner add CYA to your pool.
Your CYA level is fine for your area. You should test it every 3-4 weeks as it will go down due to high water temperatures. Not alot, but some.
Use Plaster. Pebble Tec is a brand name of plaster.

Go get started!
 
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I am loving this because it's slowly starting to make sense :)

- About the recommended levels in the pool calculator, for example pH of 7.6 to 7.8 is ideal, however for the current slam process I should reduce it to 7.2?
- My TA of 150 seems to also be outside of the range, lowering the pH with the muriatic acid would help?
- As you know, I have an old old gallon of 29% muriatic acid that I will try to use, it was outside and 1/3 got evaporated. Any recommendation where to buy some more and is there also a date stamp I should check to not get an old bottle like for the LC?
- For measuring the chemicals I am adding to the pool, so far I just estimate the 3/4 gal visually. Any recommendation on measuring containers and the material to avoid? Will regular plastic container work, can I use them for all and rinse in between?
- about my question regarding reducing cya later on, I am assuming the only way is to drain some water, however you seem to be believe 60 is good for my area.

😊 thanks
 
Yes, you want to drop it to 7.2 because once you start the SLAM, your pH reading will be invalid (once the FC goes over 10). It will rise some during the process, so that's why we advise to lower it beforehand.

Your TA will come down with the muriatic acid. Muriatic acid lowers both pH and TA.

I use a plastic/acrylic measuring cup from the dollar store. It works fine.

A CYA of 60 is fine where you live because of the heat. A drain and refill is the only practical way (besides reverse osmosis $$$) to lower CYA. It will drop some with splash outs and backwashes, but not very much.
 
-Yes, as Marty said you can let your CYA reduce naturally from this point on
-While in a SLAM you only have to worry about FC. The pH test doesn't work at high FCs so don't worry about it.
-likewise don't worry about TA during the SLAM
-MA really doesn't go bad. But you may not know the concentration. So test carefully on that. You can buy it at any hardware store
-Use plasticware for around the pool. No glass. If the glass breaks you can't see it in the water. Those dollar stores are great places for cheap plastic measuring stuff. As you get the hang of things you'll find yourself eyeballing it more, just cause experience will give you a better eyeball
 
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