High chlorine and damage to heaters/equipment

[Pperc]

well, saying he's looking out for customers "long term financial investment" while recommending
brushing with a steel brush when the inevitable occurs over and over again likely wouldn't help the
long term life of a plaster finish.

Also how happy would a customer really be having regular algae blooms to deal with?
I'm certain they would be happier not having to do that.

I missed the steel brush part.

I gave up on him. He’s so convinced that he’s doing the right things perfectly and has nothing new to learn.

Also said replacing water constantly was a part of owning a pool.

 

[Pool_Medic]

Old timer that took some courses and wouldn’t learn as times changed. Talk to the old guys and they think unions are silly. They loved hose clamps.

 

[Pperc]

Old timer that took some courses and wouldn’t learn as times changed. Talk to the old guys and they think unions are silly. They loved hose clamps.

I think this guy is fairly young actually. The latest advice he doled out is:

“
The reason I ask is if you are looking at installing a salt system, you will still have to use tabs about half of the year even with it. Once water temps get down to 60-65 degrees (varies with the manufacturer), the system shuts itself off. The reason is due to the lower conductivity of cold water. The colder the water, the less accurate the salt system can read the salt in the water. You would have to have salt levels several thousand ppm higher than needed for it to register enough salt in the pool to generate chlorine. This is bad for the pool and the equipment so the industry solution is just to trigger them to shut down.

Granted, you need far less chlorine when water is cold but chlorine is still needed year round. This is one of my main arguments against salt cells. Spending $1000-$2500 on a chlorination system that can only chlorinate about 1/2 the year.

Ideally, you want as little chlorine as possible in your pool without causing issues. Using tabs in conjunction with a UV system allows you to do that.”

 

[mknauss]

I would suspect you winterize your pool when the water gets below 60F.

In my area, my SWCG shuts down for about 3 months. I add liquid chlorine once a week if home and float a tablet or two when not home during that time.

You can use trichlor all you want, just plan a 1/3 water exchange each month during swim season.

 

[Donldson]

Wait, are you in Philly or Texas? I think you said the guy is in Texas, where they don't winterize pools but the water does get cool enough for SWGs to stop working, but your info says Philly. If you are in Philly but he doesn't understand that people in the north close their pools, then that's pretty telling. I don't live in Texas, but I understand that most down that way just stop using their pools and go to a low-maintenance cold water program for the winter. I would expect a professional from there to at least understand that northerners have to completely close our pools in the winter.

 

[Pool_Medic]

I only use aquarite and they operate above 50 degrees, maybe 55, but when water is that cold it requires very little chlorine compared to an 85 degree pool.

This youngen has been led astray by his employer I assume. Swg do have up front costs but they imo are cheaper over a 5-7 year term.