High Ammonia Test- Crystal Clear Water?

[Frank G]

Looking for advise. Recently was advised by a pool store that I had high ammonia levels (8+) and 0 FC. They suggested a water change, but I know from this Forum not to rely on the pool store. Reading several threads on similar topics, I purchased the TF100 and went to a pet store and bought an ammonia test kit. The result of the ammonia test was in fact deep blue or 8ish on the card. The peculiar thing is my water is crystal clear with no smell at all. The FAS/TBD test results indicate 1.5 FC. FYI, I've added no Liquid Chlorine since Sunday when I added 128 oz of 10%. FYI, I keep an automatic cover on when the pool is not in use (no fence) so no sun on the water since Sunday. Cover only open in the evening since Sunday.

FC 1.5
CC 2.0
PH 7.4
TA 190
CYA 45
CH 500

Any ideas?

Thanks!

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
It would be very unusual to have ammonia with how you describe your water and your water chemistry. Can you take a picture of the water for us right now? We are gathering information for an ammonia article for our pool school.

Do you use algaecides? Other chemicals (excluding liquid chlorine, acid, etc)?

Our best way to test for ammonia in pool water is to raise your FC to10 ppm, circulate the pool for 15 min, then test FC and CC. Post the results.

I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.

 

[Frank G]

Thanks! I don't have a picture right now, but will take one later today when home. it was crystal clear blue last night. I used some PhosFree at the pool store's suggestion some weeks ago (I know), but in limited amounts after the original diagnosis. A half a bottle or 3 days, so don't think that did much. The waters been great, so was afraid to add anything for fear it's some type of false read.

Would the raising of FC be a SLAM? I can do the that tonight.

 

[DorsalSpine]

I am curious to see what people think. I have had ammonia in the past. This is my first year with a new liner, new city water and a new auto cover. I had the pool open and holding FC after the change in liner and water. I added 4# of stabilizer to start. I didn't check the CYA after that since it was a new fill of fresh water. Everything was fine for a couple of weeks. Opened the pool one morning to find a drown opossum in the deep end. He might have been there for a day or so at most. I open the pool everyday or every other day to check the water. I'm not sure how he got under the auto cover.

I went through way more chlorine than I expected to get it to hold FC when I SLAM'd the pool. My consumption seemed unusually high as well over the next couple of days even though the cover was on most of the time. The water wasn't crystal clear but it wasn't cloudy either. It just wasn't the totally transparent I'm used to. That cleared up in a day and I passed an OCLT.

I checked the CYA since my consumption of chlorine seemed high over the next week. Couldn't get a reading at all. The test sample water was crystal clear. No trace of CYA. My reagents are new this year so it's not that. I ended up adding another 2# of stabilizer. The pool seems to hold FC now even with the cover open. I'm still not seeing a CYA reading. I'm going to have my local guy test it and see if I need to add more stabilizer or if I have a bad test.

I document my daily tests so I had a good idea of how the pool has acted in years past. I'm still getting a feel for having it with the auto cover. We swim more with the auto cover so I know that makes a difference. The water has been and still is clear.

I'm not trying to hijack this thread. I'd just like to know more about ammonia.

 

[mknauss]

Would the raising of FC be a SLAM?

No. It is a test.

Read SLAM Process for detail on that.

 

[ajw22]

@Frank G it sounds like you have ammonia from an algaecide or something added to the water. Not from a bacteria that feeds on CYA and creates ammonia. Signs of the bacteria problem are 0 FC, high Ccs, 0 CYA, and low pH. That is not your water status.

Add liquid chlorine as needed to maintain a FC of 6-8 for your CYA 50. See FC/CYA Levels

You will use more chlorine then usual until the ammonia is cleared.

 

[Frank G]

Thanks guys! I'll raise the FC as prescribed and report back.

 

[ajw22]

Thanks guys! I'll raise the FC as prescribed and report back.

Note it can take 10 ppm of CL for every 1 ppm of ammonia. If you have 8 ppm of ammonia you can go through 80 ppm of CL. That can be around 23 gallons of 10% LC for your pool.

 

[jblizzle]

I agree this does not seem like a typical bacteria conversion of CYA to ammonia. But that raises the question about how it got in the water or if there is something else in the water that is interfering with the ammonia test itself.

 

[Frank G]

Posting results of test suggested by mknauss...

7/12 7:00 PM (test before chlorine add)
FC 1.0
CC 1.0
PH 7.5
TA 170
CYA 35

Added 3 gal of 10% liq chlorine. Pool math says will lift to 13.

7/12 7:20 PM (20 mins later)
FC 13.5
CC 1.0
PH 7.5
TA 180
CYA 35

7/12 9:15 PM (2 hours later)
FC 8.0
CC 1.5
PH 7.5
TA 180
CYA 35

Today 7/13 9:00AM (14 hours later)
FC 8.0 (held at 8 over night)
CC 2.0
PH 7.5
TA 180
CYA 35

FYI- pet store ammonia test still showing 6-8 (dark green)

 

[mknauss]

Your FC held too well for ammonia. Your CC is elevated, which is interesting.

No chemicals other than liquid chlorine have been added to the pool - correct?

 

[mknauss]

Re-read your first post. You need to open the cover with sun on the pool for several hours at least every other day during the summer. The CC's are building up. And I bet there is some form of them that is showing as ammonia on the testing.

 

[fwgageby1]

I was wondering about the cover being a factor.No other chemical except a small amount of PhosFree a few weeks ago and some shock late May when opening pool.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Folks,

Key point - aquarium ammonia test.

Aquarium testers are not designed to handle chlorinated water. The high oxidizer levels will almost surely screw up the test. The presence of chloramines may also interfere with the ammonia test. Finally, if chlorine is measurable at any concentration, ammonia can not exist and vice versa. The two react very rapidly with one another turning into chloramines.

 

[Flying Tivo]

I believe CC are due too keeping the cover on for long periods of time. Try just covering at night.

 

[fwgageby1]

Thanks everyone! I'll keep the cover open for longer periods, more frequently, and report back.

 

[Frank G]

FC holding at 7.5 as of Monday night; CC down to .05-1.0; CYA 30; TA 165; PH 7.6. I'm keeping cover open at least 2-3 hours a day. Water still crystal clear.