Generally, we are never gone more than a few days. I could see us out camping/exploring for up to 4-5 days at a time, max.
Hibernation...
- Thread starter VWRosco
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,843
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You would need a small supply of trichlor pucks/tablets and floating dispenser for those days. You could set the robot to run on a schedule.
Maytronics report:
I spoke with Seth (and Margaret)at Marina pool supply in Denver about our idea. Power consumption is my main concern and we determined that the S200 model would require 2 amps at 120 volts so amps x volts= 220 watts for a run time of approximately 2 hrs/day.
Seth was not totally convinced that we could get away with only using the robot and pitching chemicals manually but he thought at my proposed volume (less than 5300 gallons) there was a good chance this system would work.
He had some ideas on ways to help the robot system keep up which were:
-run the robot every day
-consider phosphate removers
-possibly use algaecide (as preventative)
-use the skimmer pole to try and mix the chlorine/chemicals when added to the water- high ppm chlorine could affect the lifespan of the robot.
Without having experience with an unconventional system like we're proposing Seth thought we most likely will have to get started and just see how it goes. Whatever issues we may have will have to be addressed at the time. He was hopeful and liking the fact that we'll only be using the pool for 4 to 5 months a year. Also the small-ish size was a good thing in his mind.
What do you guys think about this system?
I think I will plumb the pool for a future sand filter system in anticipation of power reaching our area but for now the relatively low electrical draw requirements of the robot seem like a good idea.
For those just joining the conversation, I am planning to build a freeform, 5300 gallon in-ground, tile covered pool in Mexico at a location off the grid. We have a small solar system with batteries and an inverter which we now plan to use to power the Maytronics S200 robot. The pool will be used from as early as December through as late as April/early May, approx. 4-5 months out of the year. We plan to drain the pool when not down there and cover it. One idea which seems to be a good fit for now is to not run a circulation pump with skimmers and jets instead rely on the robot for water cleaning and add chemicals by hand.
Any concerns/ input is greatly appreciated.
I spoke with Seth (and Margaret)at Marina pool supply in Denver about our idea. Power consumption is my main concern and we determined that the S200 model would require 2 amps at 120 volts so amps x volts= 220 watts for a run time of approximately 2 hrs/day.
Seth was not totally convinced that we could get away with only using the robot and pitching chemicals manually but he thought at my proposed volume (less than 5300 gallons) there was a good chance this system would work.
He had some ideas on ways to help the robot system keep up which were:
-run the robot every day
-consider phosphate removers
-possibly use algaecide (as preventative)
-use the skimmer pole to try and mix the chlorine/chemicals when added to the water- high ppm chlorine could affect the lifespan of the robot.
Without having experience with an unconventional system like we're proposing Seth thought we most likely will have to get started and just see how it goes. Whatever issues we may have will have to be addressed at the time. He was hopeful and liking the fact that we'll only be using the pool for 4 to 5 months a year. Also the small-ish size was a good thing in his mind.
What do you guys think about this system?
I think I will plumb the pool for a future sand filter system in anticipation of power reaching our area but for now the relatively low electrical draw requirements of the robot seem like a good idea.
For those just joining the conversation, I am planning to build a freeform, 5300 gallon in-ground, tile covered pool in Mexico at a location off the grid. We have a small solar system with batteries and an inverter which we now plan to use to power the Maytronics S200 robot. The pool will be used from as early as December through as late as April/early May, approx. 4-5 months out of the year. We plan to drain the pool when not down there and cover it. One idea which seems to be a good fit for now is to not run a circulation pump with skimmers and jets instead rely on the robot for water cleaning and add chemicals by hand.
Any concerns/ input is greatly appreciated.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,843
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
A few items.
Seth does not understand the FC/CYA relationship. The TFP 'high' FC is not detrimental to the robot. When adding the liquid chlorine it would be wise to mix around with a brush and then run the robot.
I would plumb the pool at construction for a skimmer, returns, etc. Then plug off the lines at a future pad site. Cheap to do it now.
You will need to have access to fill water due to evaporation. I would assume between 1/2" and 3/4" a day.
I doubt you will have issues with phosphates in Baja. Unless the trucked in water is high naturally. TFP pretty much ignores phosphates as if you keep your FC in the right ratio with your CYA, they do not matter.
Do not use algaecides. They are not needed and can create problems (copper staining).
Seth does not understand the FC/CYA relationship. The TFP 'high' FC is not detrimental to the robot. When adding the liquid chlorine it would be wise to mix around with a brush and then run the robot.
I would plumb the pool at construction for a skimmer, returns, etc. Then plug off the lines at a future pad site. Cheap to do it now.
You will need to have access to fill water due to evaporation. I would assume between 1/2" and 3/4" a day.
I doubt you will have issues with phosphates in Baja. Unless the trucked in water is high naturally. TFP pretty much ignores phosphates as if you keep your FC in the right ratio with your CYA, they do not matter.
Do not use algaecides. They are not needed and can create problems (copper staining).
Good to know about algaecides, thanks. I agree, plumb the pool now for skimmer, jets, etc. But do you think we run the risk of getting biofilm in the lines? I have a bunch of homework to do re. construction- I believe there is a forum just for that here and maybe a better place to look for info. re. drainage procedures. And, good to know Seth is not clear on the FC damage. I do intend to switch to liquid bleach once the CYA level is correct. I will give this a try.
Marty, thanks for coming up with this great idea! We know it's not conventional but neither is my situation. Too, power is not far away and soon enough I'm sure we will be on the grid and doing things just like normal people. For now I love this idea; it's manageable (low power consumption) and gives us a viable direction to move forward.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,843
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Good question about the static lines. It would be best to plug them at the pool shell. Might have to get creative with the ones in the pool. The skimmer could just use a rubber plug.
When you want to discuss your build, start a thread in Under Construction. You might link this thread so members could see the discussion on the 'hybrid' design.
When you want to discuss your build, start a thread in Under Construction. You might link this thread so members could see the discussion on the 'hybrid' design.
Sure. Hey also, just to be clear, we are not thinking about salt water- chlorine and robot only?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,843
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
No need for SWCG if you will be able to add liquid chlorine each day. On those days you are away you can use a trichlor tablet in a floater.
cfherrman
TFP Guide
If your doing lines why not a small 1/3 hp pump and sand filter, even the eBay special at $120 which is 1/3 hp and 42 lbs typically. Run it one hour a day when you drop chemicals. 1/3 hp is 250 watts. It would keep lines clean and prevent staining from chemicals.
If I did run a pump (1hour/day) then could I have a SWCG as well or do you need more pump time for the SWCG to operate?
Well,
Theft is definitely an issue down there. We came up with a plan to use a robot and add chemicals by hand as an alternative to running a regular circulation pump. I was resigned to run the robot which draws 220 watts for two hours a day. However, if I can get away with a small pump like the 1/3 hp one you mentioned then maybe it's worth revisiting the circ. pump/sand filter idea. HOw much time would you think I would need to run the circ. pump per day to be able to have a SWCG?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,748
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Less then 3 hours a day if you put a 60K SWG in for a 6,000 gallon pool.
Started to say "theft is an issue..." meaning the robot would have to be babysat and then put away after each use. It's an option but not necessarily the most convenient. Hence, revisit the conventional pool plumbing idea knowing that we could have a locked up concrete pump house that we wouldn't need to be present in order for the system to work.
ok. MIght be an option for us. I'll need to determine the minimum size pump I can get away with for a 5300 gallon pool.
Is there a good thread which talks about sizing pumps? [or are there 5,000]??
cfherrman
TFP Guide
I used the 1/3 for 10000 gallons, and use a 1/2 for 12000 now. Just don't have power for vacuum, robot better anyway and I have one. You could go even less but I'm assuming it's harder to find a quality unit.
If your worried about power hand feeding your pool is best and super easy, lots of us do it. There should be 12v chemical pumps you could use for bleach injection and turn the dial up for low run time. If I recall the one I saw (lmi, you want a stenner though) was 1amp at 110v and i doubt it pulls that unless it's maxxed out.
If your worried about power hand feeding your pool is best and super easy, lots of us do it. There should be 12v chemical pumps you could use for bleach injection and turn the dial up for low run time. If I recall the one I saw (lmi, you want a stenner though) was 1amp at 110v and i doubt it pulls that unless it's maxxed out.
g
good to know re. the chem pump. Just trying to make this whole thing as easy and feasible as possible. I will look into the chem pumps. Maybe it actually ends up being both minimal run time on whole-pool circulator and a robot scrub down. But, the more I think about the robot the less free time we will have due to having to babysit the unit and then store safely. If the world only had our problems, huh? I just know when you're looking at a major investment like this, the best scenario is the one that requires the least amount of energy.