Hi from Buffalo, NY

[Dave Ski]

Hi everyone, I'm from Lancaster, NY a suburb near Buffalo. I have a 21' round above ground pool.

I've been using Simple Blue, recommended by my local pool store. Finding this site has been bitter sweet....super happy I'm here but my pool has gone neglected from chemicals for a few weeks. To make things worse we've had some periods of heavy rain. My immediate goal is to get my water chemistry under control and close my pool (drain down and cover). Next year I would like to take more control of what I put in my pool and why.

I just downloaded and used the Pool Math app which looks to be a great resource! However, I'm really not sure where to start in terms of adding chemicals.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Texas Splash]

Hello Dave and welcome to TFP! Since you're closing soon, I'll give you some links specifically related to your situation:

Closing (Winterizing) Your Above Ground Pool

Closing an above ground pool at season’s end should be a fast and worry-free process. Learn the basics of above ground pool winterization in easy steps.

www.troublefreepool.com

Remember, the best form of chlorine for your pool is liquid chlorine (i.e. pool store liquid shock or Home Depot) or regular bleach (not Clorox brands and never splashless or scented). Avoid those convenient pool store products, algaecides, etc.

You'll want a TF-100 test kit. That's a BIG deal for accurate testing. The only other kit we recommend would be a Taylor K-2006S. See Test Kits Compared.

But start there and let us know what other questions you have. Time is short for you, but we'll do what we can.

 

[gonfishin]

Welcome, Dave!

The first thing recommended here is to get a good test kit. See Test Kits Compared. And to make testing easier and fun, get a speedstir.

If I were in your shoes, I think I'd just close up the pool for the winter and spend time reading ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry in pool school with a plan to open early and tackle the water chemistry in the spring.

 

[Dave Ski]

Hello Dave and welcome to TFP! Since you're closing soon, I'll give you some links specifically related to your situation:

Remember, the best form of chlorine for your pool is liquid chlorine (i.e. pool store liquid shock or Home Depot) or regular bleach (not Clorox brands and never splashless or scented). Avoid those convenient pool store products, algaecides, etc.

You'll want a TF-100 test kit. That's a BIG deal for accurate testing. The only other kit we recommend would be a Taylor K-2006S. See Test Kits Compared.

But start there and let us know what other questions you have. Time is short for you, but we'll do what we can.

Hi Pat,
Thanks for the links. And yes my time is short, I really should have closed the pool a few weeks ago.

I just bought the Taylor K-2006 kit. I'll post the results below. I recorded them on the Pool Math app but not sure why they don't show when hovering over my avatar.

FC: 0.4 ppm
CC: 0.4 ppm
pH: <6.8 (it turned yellow after adding R-0004)
TA: 10
CH: 160
CYA: 48

The app seems to do a nice job suggesting what needs to be added to hit the target levels. I'm not sure which one to start with.

Thank you,
Dave

 

[Dave Ski]

Welcome, Dave!

The first thing recommended here is to get a good test kit. See Test Kits Compared. And to make testing easier and fun, get a speedstir.

If I were in your shoes, I think I'd just close up the pool for the winter and spend time reading ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry in pool school with a plan to open early and tackle the water chemistry in the spring.

Hi Sue,
Would your suggestion still hold true with my water test listed in the reply above? I'm concerned I let the water chem go for too long...do you think it's too acidic and will do damage over the winter?

Thank you!
Dave

 

[Texas Splash]

Dave, here are your choices based on those test results, assuming you had no problems with the testing and those are accurate:

Opt 1: Regardless of the water condition (clear, cloudy, or green) Increase both the TA and pH before closing. Bring the TA up to at least 50-60 and the pH to the mid 7s. The CH is no problem since you have vinyl. Then increase the FC to shock level as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. For a CYA of 40, that would mean an FC of 16. Close & cover and be prepared for a green mess in the spring and perform a SLAM Process.

Opt 2: If the water is cloudy/green, follow the SLAM Process now. But still increase the TA and only increase the pH to 7.2 before starting the SLAM. Once the SLAM is complete, cover & close.

For FC testing, do it as follows: 10 ml water sample with one generous scoop of powder. Mix until clear and divide the result in half. Example: 20 drops equals an FC of 10. Hope that helps.

 

[gonfishin]

Hi Sue,
Would your suggestion still hold true with my water test listed in the reply above? I'm concerned I let the water chem go for too long...do you think it's too acidic and will do damage over the winter?

Thank you!
Dave

Dave, I would follow Pat's list. Getting the pH and TA to proper levels before closing is really important to make sure your liner isn't damaged over the winter.

As he said, if the pool is green and cloudy, you can SLAM before closing. However, a SLAM can take quite a while to complete and you might still have to SLAM at opening. It's your decision on whether you want to wait a week or two to complate the SLAM before closing or close now knowing you'll open to a green pool and be prepared to SLAM at opening.

I can see your poolmath logs, so you got that set OK in the app.

 

[Dave Ski]

Dave, here are your choices based on those test results, assuming you had no problems with the testing and those are accurate:

Opt 1: Regardless of the water condition (clear, cloudy, or green) Increase both the TA and pH before closing. Bring the TA up to at least 50-60 and the pH to the mid 7s. The CH is no problem since you have vinyl. Then increase the FC to shock level as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. For a CYA of 40, that would mean an FC of 16. Close & cover and be prepared for a green mess in the spring and perform a SLAM Process.

Opt 2: If the water is cloudy/green, follow the SLAM Process now. But still increase the TA and only increase the pH to 7.2 before starting the SLAM. Once the SLAM is complete, cover & close.

For FC testing, do it as follows: 10 ml water sample with one generous scoop of powder. Mix until clear and divide the result in half. Example: 20 drops equals an FC of 10. Hope that helps.

Pat,
I added 4 lbs of baking soda this morning and just tested TA = 30 ppm (up from 10). I added another 4 lbs and will test a little later and recheck the pH before adding Borax. Unless you think I can start adding that now, a little at a time? Also, hopefully I didn't add too much baking soda at one time. I figured since the level was so low I wasn't in any danger of overshooting and the water would absorb it. Plus I went around with the pool brush.

Taking your advice, I'm going to at least do opt 1. I'd like to do opt 2 and clear up the water before closing but I'll have to check the weather forecast. Rain and wind may end up causing me to chase my tail.

Thanks again. I really appreciate your help!
Dave

 

[Dave Ski]

Dave, I would follow Pat's list. Getting the pH and TA to proper levels before closing is really important to make sure your liner isn't damaged over the winter.

As he said, if the pool is green and cloudy, you can SLAM before closing. However, a SLAM can take quite a while to complete and you might still have to SLAM at opening. It's your decision on whether you want to wait a week or two to complate the SLAM before closing or close now knowing you'll open to a green pool and be prepared to SLAM at opening.

I can see your poolmath logs, so you got that set OK in the app.

Sue,
Great point on the time it takes to SLAM. I'd really like to get the water clear but with our weather I think I'm way too far past that point. The pool is usually closed a month ago.

Thanks for letting me know the Pool log shows up!
Dave

 

[Texas Splash]

No worries Dave, You do what you can. You can SLAM in the spring. Let that Baking Soda mix for an hour or so (probably done that by now) and re-check the TA and pH. Once your TA hits the 50-60 range, verify the pH. Aeration helps if the system is still running. But if you need to raise the pH chemically because of time, some Borax is just fine. A pH of about 7.5 should do well.

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.troublefreepool.com