Hi everyone and help please! Pool in Las Vegas. Where do I start with these results?

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Wow - if your Las Vegas water has 70 ppm calcium in it that is far different than what has ever been reported before. Colorado River water has 250 ppm Calcium. So to get 70 your source is not associated with the river at all.

Did you get that from the Water Quality report on your LVVWD website? You need to know which District you are in. We are in Big Bend Water District.

Take care.
 
mknauss said:
Wow - if your Las Vegas water has 70 ppm calcium in it that is far different than what has ever been reported before. Colorado River water has 250 ppm Calcium. So to get 70 your source is not associated with the river at all.

Did you get that from the Water Quality report on your LVVWD website? You need to know which District you are in. We are in Big Bend Water District.

Take care.
Click to expand...

See this report - 2017 for big bend. They came up with 77ppm calcium.

Big Bend 2017 Water Quality Summary


I'll test the water tomorrow from the faucet and see what I get.
 
Hi there,

In looking at the report you provided, I noticed that they measured calcium at 76ppm. To put this in usable form for the pool math calculator, it needs to be converted to calcium hardness. That can be done by dividing the calcium value by 0.4. So in this case 190ppm calcium hardness, which jives better with what MKnauss expects to see.

Cheers
 
And further down the report, it states hardness at 293 ppm or 17.1 gpg. Not all of that hardness is calcium, but all of it effects your ability to prevent scaling.

Take care.
 
Yup -- Colorado River Water. pH is about 8.0-8.2

Now you know were you start. So you want to never add calcium or calcium containing products. So no solid chlorine - aka CalHypo.

Also - you will need to add acid weekly or a bit more. Especially in the summer as your evaporation will continuously drive your TA up.

You will also want to plan drain/refills every 2 years at the maximum. You would have to aggressively manage CSI if you go that long or will have calcium scaling at your water line and in your pool. I would suggest planning to drain late fall one year, then early spring the the year after next. So if you drain now, you would plan to do it again in Spring 2019. That way you would do it about when CH hits 1000 ppm and CSI gets tough to manage.

Take care.
 
Ok thanks.

I'm planning on getting the pool to the following measurements

FC : 4ppm
pH : 7.5
TA : 160ppm (as is)
CH : 250ppm (as is)
CYA : 30ppm

Questions


1. Do those amounts sound about right? It really only needs a jug of bleach and around half a jug of muriatic acid for a 22500 gallon pool according to pool calc. Thought I'd be up for a lot of bottles to start!

2. Is there a guide on how to manage CSI as CH rises?

3. How often should I be checking and maintaining the following levels. FC, pH, TA,CH and CYA?

Thanks
 
The TA will lower over time as your pH will rise quite rapidly with a high TA and your high pH fill water. You will still be adding water all winter as we evaporation year around.

As you are new, I would suggest testing FC and pH daily to start. When your pH reaches 8, add acid to lower to 7.2. TA weekly. CH and CYA monthly.

You can use a method to drive down your TA in a couple days that would make your pH rise less rapid. See Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity. I use that process after I refill. I run my SPA at full RPM for my aeration. Takes me about two days with about a gallon of Acid for my 6000 gallon pool.
I typically stop at about TA of 80 with new water.

Use PoolMath or the PoolMath app for CSI. TA, pH, CH, temperature, salt, borates (not typically used) all effect CSI.

- - - Updated - - -

Remember. You will be adding bleach regularly. Not as much during the winter, but in the summer it will take 1 to 1.5 jugs per DAY. And it must be put in DAILY

That is why a Salt Water Chlorine Generator is so nice. It makes your chlorine.
 
OK. Why did you need to lower TA after your refill? Isn't 160ppm or so a good level to begin with? Would you recmmend me getting it to 80ppm as well? Should I do this after I get the other levels stable first? Thanks

The SWCG sounds good, I'll have to look into it eventually. Is it possible to get similar results by putting more salt in the pool with less chlorine? Or it doesn't work that way? Thanks
 

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With a high TA, your pH will rise quickly, in a day or two, so you will be adding acid that often. Also, in my case, a high TA leads to scaling in my SWCG, so I lower my TA to drive my CSI below 0.

A SWCG uses the salt to create chlorine, and then as the chlorine is used up, it returns to salt. So just adding salt without the generator does nothing.

Take care.
 
TA of 80 would be good start. Follow the link I provided on the process to lower it. Use your SPA for aeration. I set my suction from the pool and return to Spa.

Take care.
 
Just as a point of reference for the liquid chlorine usage compared to SWCG, my 43k gallon pool takes a jug of FRESH 10% chlorine from Home Depot or Lowe’s (~$3.50) each day during the summer. That drops to about a gallon every 3rd day this time of year. That said your pool would likely be about half of that instead of the gallon or 1 & 1/2 gallon/day previously referenced.

Personally, I don’t like the taste of the salt. We added salt to our pool for the softening effects. I was of the thought that if I could build the salt level to one that would sustain a SWCG without the taste, we would install one. However, right around 2000ppm it became noticeable for my family. Best of luck!
 
The 1 to 1.5 jugs of chlorine referenced before is based on 8.25% bleach. Also using 4 ppm loss in summer. I typically run 4-5 ppm loss in summer with our bather use.

Our salt is at 3300 ppm. No one that has ever been in the pool has known it has salt in it unless I tell them.

Take care.
 
CYA - From post #10
As you are filling is a great time to add your CYA. Put the CYA in a sock or two, and I tie them to a handle on a bucket, and direct one of the hoses to in the bucket to dissolve the CYA.

Add 3 ppm of bleach as you fill the pool.

Take care.
 
mknauss said:
CYA - From post #10
As you are filling is a great time to add your CYA. Put the CYA in a sock or two, and I tie them to a handle on a bucket, and direct one of the hoses to in the bucket to dissolve the CYA.

Add 3 ppm of bleach as you fill the pool.

Take care.
Click to expand...

Thanks, 3ppm of bleach (for final volume of 23000 gallons) would be 3/4 of a bottle? So just put that in now? The pool is a few hours into filling and it'll take a couple of days i'd say.
 
You can put it in tonight. It will burn off tomorrow since your water has no CYA in it. You can test it after the pool is full and then maintain it based on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].
 

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