help with starting SWG

[purplepenguin27]

I'm new to pool maintenance the TFP way, and have learned a TON just from reading articles and searching for answers in the forums. I'm at the point where I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed and could use direct help. We opened our pool just a few days ago and have operated as a bleach pool. Dumped 110 lbs of pool salt in 27 hrs ago and wondering when I can test my salt levels and when I should turn on the SWG. Here are my latest readings:

FC: 2.5 ppm (tested today; added 11 oz 10.8% liq chlorine to get FC to 5 per Pool Math 20 min ago)
pH: 7.6 (tested today)
CYA: 60ppm (tested yesterday; dry CYA fully dissolved from sock method 3 days ago)
TA: 130ppm (tested yesterday)
CH: 90ppm (tested 2 days ago)

So my big questions are: Should I get CYA up to 70 before turning on the SWG? Was my CYA test yesterday accurate or should I test again before adding more CYA? (Only have enough for 6 CYA tests with my Taylor K-2006 kit) If I add more CYA do the kids have to stay out of the pool while it's dissolving? Should I try to get TA down? How do I do that? When can I test for pool salt? When do I turn on the SWG?

Just feeling a bit overwhelmed at this point as kids are anxious to get in but not sure where to go now with my test results and salt already in the pool (amount on the conservative side) with SWG not turned on yet. Thank you!

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! It sounds as though you are doing quite well. The salt has been in long enough, and while the CYA of 60 is slightly under the TFP recommended level, you may do fine in your area. Turn on that SWG! Make sure there are no error lights or faults and them monitor your FC level once or twice each day until you are sure you are maintaining the FC level you need per the FC/CYA Levels. If you think the FC is falling a bit too quick, then increase the CYA by 10 ppm. Use the sock method. It's relatively safe, but I would just ask the kids to stay away so they don't' splash any of it towards their face or eyes. Or just let it soak overnight and squeeze it all out in the morning before they go swimming.

 

[purplepenguin27]

I'm new to pool maintenance the TFP way, and have learned a TON just from reading articles and searching for answers in the forums. I'm at the point where I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed and could use direct help. We opened our pool just a few days ago and have operated as a bleach pool. Dumped 110 lbs of pool salt in 27 hrs ago and wondering when I can test my salt levels and when I should turn on the SWG. Here are my latest readings:

FC: 2.5 ppm (tested today; added 11 oz 10.8% liq chlorine to get FC to 5 per Pool Math 20 min ago)
pH: 7.6 (tested today)
CYA: 60ppm (tested yesterday; dry CYA fully dissolved from sock method 3 days ago)
TA: 130ppm (tested yesterday)
CH: 90ppm (tested 2 days ago)

So my big questions are: Should I get CYA up to 70 before turning on the SWG? Was my CYA test yesterday accurate or should I test again before adding more CYA? (Only have enough for 6 CYA tests with my Taylor K-2006 kit) If I add more CYA do the kids have to stay out of the pool while it's dissolving? Should I try to get TA down? How do I do that? When can I test for pool salt? When do I turn on the SWG?

Just feeling a bit overwhelmed at this point as kids are anxious to get in but not sure where to go now with my test results and salt already in the pool (amount on the conservative side) with SWG not turned on yet. Thank you!

Welcome to TFP! It sounds as though you are doing quite well. The salt has been in long enough, and while the CYA of 60 is slightly under the TFP recommended level, you may do fine in your area. Turn on that SWG! Make sure there are no error lights or faults and them monitor your FC level once or twice each day until you are sure you are maintaining the FC level you need per the FC/CYA Levels. If you think the FC is falling a bit too quick, then increase the CYA by 10 ppm. Use the sock method. It's relatively safe, but I would just ask the kids to stay away so they don't' splash any of it towards their face or eyes. Or just let it soak overnight and squeeze it all out in the morning before they go swimming.

Thank you so much for the quick reply, and for giving me the confidence to just turn on the SWG! It's connected and on right now with no errors as of yet. The SWG manual says at initial startup, to set it on the BOOST cycle, which runs it for 8x the programmed time (3 hrs in our case), kind of like shocking the pool. I tested our FC levels to be at 3.5ppm about 30 min after we turned on the SWG. Do you think I need to run it on the BOOST cycle as the manual suggests (so 24hrs) or just keep it at the regular operating time of 3 hrs today??

I will keep an eye on the FC as you've suggested and increase the CYA only if I notice the FC falling. Would you recommend I do anything to lower my TA level (130ppm yesterday) or is it okay that high?

 

[purplepenguin27]

Thank you so much for the quick reply, and for giving me the confidence to just turn on the SWG! It's connected and on right now with no errors as of yet. The SWG manual says at initial startup, to set it on the BOOST cycle, which runs it for 8x the programmed time (3 hrs in our case), kind of like shocking the pool. I tested our FC levels to be at 3.5ppm about 30 min after we turned on the SWG. Do you think I need to run it on the BOOST cycle as the manual suggests (so 24hrs) or just keep it at the regular operating time of 3 hrs today??

I will keep an eye on the FC as you've suggested and increase the CYA only if I notice the FC falling. Would you recommend I do anything to lower my TA level (130ppm yesterday) or is it okay that high?

I forgot to mention that I tested the salt levels to be at 2600ppm just before we turned on the SWG.

 

[Texas Splash]

I forgot to mention that I tested the salt levels to be at 2600ppm just before we turned on the SWG.

Then you may need to add about 300-400 ppm more. Check your owners manual for the ideal range. Not a problem though, you can salt at any time.

 

[Flying Tivo]

No need to boost. just raise your FC with liquid chlorine and then run your SWG.

 

[purplepenguin27]

Followup question as I'm still trying to find my groove with my SWG: if my FC is falling between 2-2.5 when I check it before kids want to go swimming (when FC was 4 the previous day), do I raise it by adding liquid chlorine or just run my SWG for longer according to PoolMath and trust that it will raise it while they're swimming? My CYA is about 60.

 

[Texas Splash]

do I raise it by adding liquid chlorine or just run my SWG for longer according to PoolMath and trust that it will raise it while they're swimming? My CYA is about 60.

If you find the FC low, add liquid chlorine right away. Avoid algae at all costs. So for example say you increase the FC from 2 to 6 ppm, then increase your SWG output or pump run time to produce more FC to maintain that 5-6 range.

 

[purplepenguin27]

If you find the FC low, add liquid chlorine right away. Avoid algae at all costs. So for example say you increase the FC from 2 to 6 ppm, then increase your SWG output or pump run time to produce more FC to maintain that 5-6 range.

Okay, so I add liquid chlorine right away to get it to the right level per PoolMath, but then I'm also at the same time running the SWG for the time specified per PoolMath? So I'm essentially using both methods at the same time? This is the part I'm confused about.

 

[purplepenguin27]

Or do I add liquid chlorine first, then test FC again, let them swim, then test the FC again, and run the SWG later after they're done swimming for the time specified in PoolMath for the last FC level? Sorry I'm so confused.

 

[Texas Splash]

This is the part I'm confused about.

When you know the FC is low, increase it right away. Even though SWGs have a boost or super chlorinate function, they really are not good at increasing FC quickly. When the FC drops below the minimum and algae is likely, there is no time to waste. Adding liquid does no harm and does not interfere with the SWG at all. Everyone can still swim. It basically serves as an immediate "boost" function without placing addition strain on the SWG. Once you add liquid chlorine, the SWG can simply try to "maintain" that level. That's all the SWGs is designed to do.

 

[Texas Splash]

Us SWG owners have to remember, if we go out and find the FC crashed too low (potential for algae), what's the reason? Is it:
- SWG output too low?
- Not enough pump run time?
- CYA too low not protecting the FC gas generate?
- Or worse case - algae. It's always good to do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test first if you ever suspect FC is falling too fast each day.

 

[purplepenguin27]

Okay, so it sounds like my FC levels should not be dropping like that (from 4 to 2 each day), and if it is, I need to figure out why. Here's what I'm thinking: my pump has been running 24/7 for a week so it can't be that, but I should do the OCLT to rule out algae, and if algae is ruled out (my pool water is crystal clear so I'm optimistically hoping it's not algae), increase CYA to see if that helps (my CYA was already borderline at 50-60). Then if it's still dropping I should increase my SWG run time (I've only been running it for a couple of days so still haven't found my groove yet). Does that make sense?

One more question - if my SWG is running with no low or high salt indicators, can I assume my salt level is okay and that can't be part of the problem? I tested it at 2600ppm a few days ago and kept it there as I read the intex SWGs tend to like lower salt levels.

Thanks so much for the help!

 

[Texas Splash]

if my SWG is running with no low or high salt indicators, can I assume my salt level is okay and that can't be part of the problem? I tested it at 2600ppm a few days ago and kept it there as I read the intex SWGs tend to like lower salt levels.

Salt testing has a lot of variance in it, anywhere from 400-500 ppm. It's a bit frustrating at times, but if the SWG is not throwing any errors that's good. If you test with a K-1766 salt test kit and find a large variance, you might split the difference if you can.

But you have the right idea above. Best to do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test first. If you do it starting tonight, a few reminders:
- I like to leave the pump on the entire time; low speed is fine
- While you can technically start an OCLT at an FC of 3 ppm, don't start that low. Add some liquid chlorine if needed and have a good starting FC this evening of about 6-7 ppm, that way if it does fall overnight it doesn't go below 2-3 ppm.
- Be sure both the evening test and morning test are with no sun on the water.
- Be sure the SWG is off

If you pass the OCLT, increase the CYA to 70. Of course if you fail the OCLT then you'll need to go right into a SLAM Process. Fingers crossed you pass and only have to add some CYA. Let us know how it goes.

 

[purplepenguin27]

Thank you so much for the tips and advice, Texas Splash. My OCLT lost 0.6ppm (from FC 4.8 to 4.2ppm), although I admit my morning test was slightly later than I would've liked, at 7:15am when there was a tiny bit of sun on one corner of the pool (but my evening test was at 10pm when the sun was definitely down). So I hope that means I don't need to worry about a SLAM today.

I went ahead and added some CYA this morning - PoolMath called for 8 oz to go from 60-70ppm, but I only had 5 oz in the house so just added that tied up in a pantyhose sock and placed in my skimmer basket (which also had a skimmer sock). I will go out and get some more CYA later today, but just wanted to get something going first to get my CYA levels up. Pump is still going 24/7.

Another question - when should I run the SWG today and test FC again? Before, during, or after kids swim? We have also lost quite a bit of water just from 5 days of swimming and lots of splashing as it's now 3-4 inches lower than when we first filled it. Should we add more water right away, or wait until I figure out why I'm losing FC, then do it all over again with the new water level? I'm thinking as I'm typing that I should probably add water now...

 

[Texas Splash]

when should I run the SWG today and test FC again?

Go ahead and use the SWG now. Set it to the desired output and pump run time to ensure you maintain the proper FC level as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. If you ever see it fall to the minimum, use a little liquid chlorine to help it back up. Maintain a good water level height - about 1/2 to 3/4 up the skimmer mouth opening. If you think you lost a lot of water due to overflow, be sure to also check the salt level to ensure it didn't fall too much. But watching the FC each day is the staple of good water quality.

 

[rcs29]

Thank you so much for the tips and advice, Texas Splash. My OCLT lost 0.6ppm (from FC 4.8 to 4.2ppm), although I admit my morning test was slightly later than I would've liked, at 7:15am when there was a tiny bit of sun on one corner of the pool (but my evening test was at 10pm when the sun was definitely down). So I hope that means I don't need to worry about a SLAM today.

I went ahead and added some CYA this morning - PoolMath called for 8 oz to go from 60-70ppm, but I only had 5 oz in the house so just added that tied up in a pantyhose sock and placed in my skimmer basket (which also had a skimmer sock). I will go out and get some more CYA later today, but just wanted to get something going first to get my CYA levels up. Pump is still going 24/7.

Another question - when should I run the SWG today and test FC again? Before, during, or after kids swim? We have also lost quite a bit of water just from 5 days of swimming and lots of splashing as it's now 3-4 inches lower than when we first filled it. Should we add more water right away, or wait until I figure out why I'm losing FC, then do it all over again with the new water level? I'm thinking as I'm typing that I should probably add water now...

You can expect to lose some FC everyday. That's what your SWG is for. The idea is that you get it dialed in (pump run time, pump output if you have VSP, and SWG output %). If you have a heavy bather load then you will lose more than normal FC. When I have a bunch of people over to swim I'll super chlorinated (run SWG @ 100%) for my normal run time. It'll take some time to figure out how to get it dialed in where you want. What worked for me was when there were a couple days of moderate to little swimmer load I checked it at the same time each day and adjusted 5-10% each time until I had the same FC 24 hrs apart. Also do yourself a favor and just use the 10 ML sample for testing. Another thing is that you are clearly concerned for your kids safety, obviously a good thing, but your kids are safe to swim in the water even with your FC @ SLAM levels. I know it's crazy right? Your skin will not melt off. Anyhow you'll get the SWG dialed in then you just test every day or 2 and it's smooth sailing in that regard. For reference I have my CYA @80 and target a 7ppm FC, pump runs 12 hrs @ 2300 rpms at 65% output. I have some skimming issues so I need to run my pump that long and fast to ensure I get everything to the skimmer. Like splash mentioned though if your chlorine drops below the low end of recommendation then get some liquid chlorine in there and get it back to where you want.