Help with pool light

[themadangler]

Recently decided to investigate replacing the blown bulb in my pool. Has never worked since I moved into the house in 2015. I turned off all power and removed the fixture to inspect and determine if it is 120 or 12 volt. Purchased a new 120 v led bulb and gasket. Before installing the new bulb, i decided to try a regular light bulb and discovered it didn't work. Looks like the gfci switch/outlet combo has a bad switch. I measured voltage going into the switch but none coming out. Would you replace the gfci switch/outlet combo? Or replace the 20 amp breaker that feeds the switch/outlet with a gfci breaker and use a regular switch/outlet combo to power the light? Why? I image one of them needs to be gfci according to code. Also, should the 20 amp double pole breaker that feeds the pump also be gfci?
Contemplating changing from 120v to 12v as 120 in water makes me nervous. Is that change as "simple" as replacing the 120v light fixture and pulling a new cord through the niche and adding a transformer or is a new niche needed? Some pics of my old panel for reference.
Thanks for any feedback.

 

[1poolman1]

Since the 2010 National Electrical Code was published, pool pumps require a ground-fault circuit breaker. Required when there is a change, good idea anyway.
There must be a GFCI of some sort (breaker, device, switch like you have) in the light circuit if it remains 120v. A 12v light will require replacing the entire fixture and installing a transformer to power it, but generally a GFCI is not required for them if the transformer is designed for pool use (still a good idea).
The cord is part of the fixture and not replaceable. On a 12v incandescent light the cord is a heavier gauge to handle the increased amp load. Just replacing your existing bulb, adding a transformer, and reinstalling is asking for problems, the cord is too light and could burn.

 

[themadangler]

Since the 2010 National Electrical Code was published, pool pumps require a ground-fault circuit breaker. Required when there is a change, good idea anyway.
There must be a GFCI of some sort (breaker, device, switch like you have) in the light circuit if it remains 120v. A 12v light will require replacing the entire fixture and installing a transformer to power it, but generally a GFCI is not required for them if the transformer is designed for pool use (still a good idea).
The cord is part of the fixture and not replaceable. On a 12v incandescent light the cord is a heavier gauge to handle the increased amp load. Just replacing your existing bulb, adding a transformer, and reinstalling is asking for problems, the cord is too light and could burn.

Thanks Poolman1

 

[Skiparu]

Thanks!

 

[JamesW]

The breaker should be 15 amps, not 20 amps.

I would change the pump breaker to GFCI as well.

You probably need a new light, breaker and switch.

A 120 volt light needs a GFCI.

A "listed" low voltage light won't require a GFCI and a GFCI wouldn't protect anything downstream of the transformer anyway since the transformer isolates the light from the GFCI protection.

Note: The light must be "Listed" as a low voltage "Pool and/or Spa" low voltage light not requiring GFCI or grounding.

Even a direct short would be seen simply as a load.

All components need to be "Listed" and approved by a "Recognized" testing laboratory like UL or equivalent.

OSHA's Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (NRTL) Program - Current List of NRTLs | Occupational Safety and Health Administration

www.osha.gov

https://windsorlocksct.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Swimming_Pools_and_Spas_2014NEC.pdf

I recommend that you have an electrician review the electrical system for full code compliance before using the light.