Help with my SWCG

bizzle

Well-known member
Aug 31, 2017
244
Imperial, CA
I don't need help often, but when I do it tends to be because of the SWG. I installed an IC60 in 3/2018, which was courtesy replaced by Pentair 5/2020. That cell just died yesterday. As I'm searching around for solutions to my blinking green light I'm noting all of the posts of other users who haven't been able to get five years from their cells like me (and also like me they're averaging around two years). I run my SWG 24/7 at 20% for about six months bringing it up to 60% in the desert summer (the other six months).

A lot of my issues stem from the Pentair system itself. For example, the app (that never seems to be updated) doesn't alert me when the cell isn't functioning. I have to manually open the app to see any alerts...and/or physically go out to the pad. There have been numerous times where I've checked and found my filter was a little to full to allow full flow and the SWG wasn't producing, or the water temp dropped too low in a freak cold snap, or it just plain won't work for no discernible reason at all as was the case with both of these two cell failures.

Before we bought our house, we owned a condo and I became the president of the HOA. I couldn't get any of the local pool professionals to quote us on an SWG install. According to them, they had nothing but problems on their hotel and other commercial installs. I'm not saying that's a reason to consider not getting one, but it's a problem in trying to get things serviced since no one local is willing to work with them and wouldn't know much about them even if they were. So anyone thinking about installing one should also check their local area to make sure there's someone willing to service it when it eventually needs servicing. Not a problem if you're a DIY'er except when it comes to talking to a company like Pentair that centers its business and warranties around pool professionals.

Looking at the prices of replacement, I'm tempted to use one of these off-brands. I'm looking at the circu-pool setups but I don't know how well they would tie into my EasyTouch or what I'd be giving up by going that direction. Judging by what I've experienced so far it wouldn't be much.
 
Mine is out right now, too. And this is the second one (a warranty replacement of the first). Frustrating. I haven't done any troubleshooting yet. Jim will likely want to know which green light is blinking. The better you describe the symptoms, the better he can help you.

And as near as we all can tell, the email alert system doesn't work. Checking the cell itself, or the controller interface, is the only way to know what's going on.

Would you like me to put you on the list of folks waiting for a ScreenLogic software update? I filled up the pad, but I might have another piece of paper around here somewhere... :rolleyes:
 
Hahaha, sure put me on the list!

The Cell light is flashing and parameters are correct, fresh acid wash as of last night, no debris, Pentair telling me to take a sample in to the pool store for a phosphates read...

To be clear, this wasn't intended to be a request for help but I'm willing to listen/try any ideas. I posted that personal experience in a response to someone asking if SWG was worth converting and a mod moved it over here as its own thread. :)
 
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Ah, gotcha. I remember Pentair giving me similar "how can we get out of this" tasks. I satisfied them somehow, and they sent a local pool guy out for the replacement.

Something to remember for the future, whichever brand you end up with: don't acid wash the cell unless it really needs it. And only then if some light pressure washing with water doesn't help. The acid wash does affect the precious metal coatings to some degree, so it could shave some lifespan off the plates.
 
Bizzle,

My guess is that 70% of all reported SWCG failures are not actually SWCG failures, but rather owner failures. :mrgreen:

I only say that because when looking at reviews or complaints, it is sometimes hard to filter out real hardware issues vs. the idiots that have an 20K cell in a 40K pool, or have algae and can't understand why the cell is not making enough chlorine.

In your case a flashing cell light means either the cell needs to be cleaned or it is dead. Since you cleaned the cell already, it sounds dead to me. The idea that it could be phosphates is just laughable...

If I had your experience with salt cells, I would not be a fan either.

But my experience is much different. I have three saltwater pools. Over the past year and a half, I've had to replace two of the IC40 salt cells. One was over 9 years old, and the other over 7 years old. The one at my house was replace by Pentair under warranty after we got hit by a lightning strike, so it is currently only about 4 or 5 years old.

All three of my pools run 24/7, 365. I use liquid chlorine for the couple of winter months when it is too cold for the cells to work.

Just for reference... When my two old cells died, they both had the identical failure mode. The Cell light would flash, but the cell was clean. If I rebooted the system, the cells would work for a few hours and then would go bad again.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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+1 that's how mine reached end of life also. The plates are a dull metal color so don't expect then to be shiny. If they need to be cleaned, You'll see toothpaste like build up on them.
 
Turning the chlorinator on/off repeatedly kept it working through the weekend. The plates were fine so it's either the electronics in the Intellichlor or the easy touch. Either way, this dying in 1.5 years and also being the warranty replacement for another cell that lasted 1.5 years I just said screw it and bought a different brand. I don't need the (chlorine) automation anyway.
 
Update: my second cell is working now. I "fixed it" last weekend. It was not the cell. It was a known problem with the IntellipH that my IntelliChlor is plugged into. Just wanted to set the record straight: I had one fail under warranty. It was replaced by Pentair, and the 2nd one is still fine.

@bizzle, sounds like you found a solution, too. We do get complaints here at TFP about IC failures. On the flip side, Jim and many others here have only success stories. Neither is weighed against the total number of Pentair ICs in existence. In other words, what percentage of Pentair ICs fail? Is it 50%, or 0.05%? Only Pentair knows. But I think it's fair to say that "the Internet" mostly hears about complaints, not successes.

Just curious: what automation did you give up? Did you end up with another brand of SWG, and are just going to run it manually? Or just use some sort of timer to turn it on and off, or are you still using the SWG with the EasyTouch, and are just giving up being able to adjust the SWG output setting?

The reason I ask is that there are some safety concerns about controlling the on-off times of an SWG relative to controlling the on-off times of your pump. As long as you are aware of those concerns then you can make an informed choice about how to control the SWG.
 
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Dirk,

Safety wise, @bizzle, can still just power whatever SWCG he buys from the load side of the EasyTouch's pump/filter relay. That is the only thing that needs to be done.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Right, just making sure he's got that figured out. There's the matter of how to wire that, and a flow switch, too, if it's not built into his new SWG, as it is with his old IC.
 
I went with a Splash IRCF60 (Amazon.com: SPLASH IRCF60 - Replacement Salt Cell for Pentair IntelliChlor IC60 : Patio, Lawn & Garden), which is reported to be a generic Intellichlor. The threads matched so no cutting of plumbing was necessary and the lead connected to the easy touch same as the Intellichlor. The wire also plugs right into the easy touch without any additional fussing or mussing.

The only thing that it seems to not do is communicate with the easy touch (can't adjust chlorine level remotely or via easy touch panel), can't check the salt level (which needed to be manually verified and can't be adjusted if the cell is mis-calibrated anyway so no practical loss there). The flow switch is integrated and connected similar (or same) to the Intellichlor--I didn't re-wire anything.

This is the second failure of the same unit in the same timeframe (1.5 years). I've also had a similar failure rate with the remote control stuff (screenlogic2). Given the ridiculous odds against these failures being due to manufacturing, and the fact they are IC failures, I would have to attribute this to environmental factors. All of this gear is sitting out in ~100F temps for around eight months of the year that hover around 120-135F at least four months of them.
 
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I would get it out of the sun with some sort of shelter. If it's a typical horizontal run, a small patio drink table could work if you aren't handy.

If it happens again, I would have your electric checked as a possible cause of early demise.
 
Get something over the swg for now. If it looks stupid but works..... You'll buy yourself more time until that real one gets built. (y)
 
I built two fence sections out of redwood and then built a metal roof over that.. the roof is held in by four bolts so I can take it off to work on the equipment, but so far that's not been needed, including installing a Circupool SWCG in a rather tight fashion because of the PB's odd pluming job. I imagine that CA has to be pretty bad too, but just the damage I see from UV on my neighbors' equipment makes me think the weekend project was well worth it.
 
I went with a Splash IRCF60 (Amazon.com: SPLASH IRCF60 - Replacement Salt Cell for Pentair IntelliChlor IC60 : Patio, Lawn & Garden), which is reported to be a generic Intellichlor. The threads matched so no cutting of plumbing was necessary and the lead connected to the easy touch same as the Intellichlor. The wire also plugs right into the easy touch without any additional fussing or mussing.

The only thing that it seems to not do is communicate with the easy touch (can't adjust chlorine level remotely or via easy touch panel), can't check the salt level (which needed to be manually verified and can't be adjusted if the cell is mis-calibrated anyway so no practical loss there). The flow switch is integrated and connected similar (or same) to the Intellichlor--I didn't re-wire anything.

This is the second failure of the same unit in the same timeframe (1.5 years). I've also had a similar failure rate with the remote control stuff (screenlogic2). Given the ridiculous odds against these failures being due to manufacturing, and the fact they are IC failures, I would have to attribute this to environmental factors. All of this gear is sitting out in ~100F temps for around eight months of the year that hover around 120-135F at least four months of them.
Maybe they couldn't figure out the com port protocol that sends data and commands between the IC and ET, for output control and salt level. What was the price difference (compared to a Pentair IC)?

110F - 135F?!? In Santa Barbara??? I thought that was a beach town. Where I used to live in Santa Cruz it rarely made it into the 90s, most months were 60-80.

Good luck with the new unit.
 
I built two fence sections out of redwood and then built a metal roof over that.. the roof is held in by four bolts so I can take it off to work on the equipment, but so far that's not been needed, including installing a Circupool SWCG in a rather tight fashion because of the PB's odd pluming job. I imagine that CA has to be pretty bad too, but just the damage I see from UV on my neighbors' equipment makes me think the weekend project was well worth it.
Ugh, I've been contemplating the need for a roof over my gear for years. Better give that some more thought... The only steps I've taken is to paint the PVC and cover all the wires with this stuff:

shopping.jpeg
 
110F - 135F?!? In Santa Barbara??? I thought that was a beach town. Where I used to live in Santa Cruz it rarely made it into the 90s, most months were 60-80.
Hahaha, no the pool's out in the desert.

The price was $750 compared to over $1,000 (most hovering around $1,400) for the IC60...if it's in stock, which I haven't found any lately anyway.
 
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