Help, Switching from liquid chlorine to SWG

[JamesR]

So after reading several posts here, I think it is a wise decision to go with a SWG unit. It’s just too hard to keep my chlorine level stable especially when we take vacations and there is nobody here to add the liquid.
So, I like the Circupool brand for their reliability and warranty.
I have a 28,000 gallon pool, it sees light to moderate use. I typically open early and close on time or a tad late because of the attached spa. The heater extends the season. So it’s open late April through September. About 5 months.
I looked at a chart on a vendors website inputting my pool size and location. It recommends the RJ45 plus or the Core 55 unit. Do these sound right for my pool size and geographic location?
I also intend on installing a new Hayward VSP. I purchased the W3SP2603VSP but have not installed it yet.
My only issue is where to install the SWG unit. I may need some plumbing modifications as there is no large section of straight plumbing after the heater to put it.
Thoughts on either of those 2 SWG units? Possible another unit to suggest and where to install? Here is my equipment pad ..

 

[PoolStored]

Welcome! Say Hi to Sage and Jody Karam for me (If you know them)!

I would get the RJ-60. They are running the $10 upgrade promo from the 45. The larger size is a nice buffer for your pool size.

I would do a horizontal install, in this picture it would be out of the heater, 90 degrees, directly away from the photographer, horizontal away would be flow switch, down, back toward the returns, and put the cell in the horizontal coming toward the photographer, back into the T for the bypass. Basically a U going away, down at slight left angle and back into T for the bypass.

 

[JamesR]

There is a flow switch to install separately? I thought that would be integrated in the SWG unit itself?
Does the SWG need to be downstream of the heater’s check valve? Or is that only required for the inline puck Chlorine unit?
Additionally, I typically bypass the heater unless I am using it. Installing the SWG on the output plumbing of the heater would mean I am flowing through the heater constantly.

 

[PoolStored]

There is a flow switch to install separately? I thought that would be integrated in the SWG unit itself?

Depends on the model. Search for RJ-45 manual or Core 55 manual...the instructions for the particular unit it in the manual. The RJ series is a separate flowswitch.

Does the SWG need to be downstream of the heater’s check valve? Or is that only required for the inline puck Chlorine unit?

Only need the checkvalve for the bypass, and puck unit. Not necessary for SWCG. You also want to check the manual on how many feet away from the heater the SWCG needs to be...will be in the manual for the unit you are using.

Additionally, I typically bypass the heater unless I am using it. Installing the SWG on the output plumbing of the heater would mean I am flowing through the heater constantly.

Yeah, great catch. I'm the opposite, I leave the heater on all the time, and my cell is after both heater and bypass. I would still do the same U out and back. Combine the bypass with the heater output before the outgoing U horizontal. e.g. Put a 90 on the bottom of the bypass vertical pipe where the union is located, face the 90 away from photographer. Extend the heater output so that is inline with the 90 from the bypass when you drop a 90 from the heater output into a T right after the 90 from the bypass...then do the U away and back to the return...Make sense?

 

[JamesR]

I had to read it a few times and go out to the pad, but yes, that makes sense. That enables me to run the SWCG with the heater bypassed or not.

 

[JamesR]

So a little more research into the RJ60+ it looks like it has feedback for salt level ppm and water temp? It does not show chlorine ppm though. So it’s not a closed loop system. It’s up to the pool owner to tweak the output until it’s stable. Am I understanding this correctly? I was thinking I would just set it for 5 ppm and let it do it’s thing. Apparently not.

 

[PoolStored]

You configure pool math with the cell output. The RJ-60 creates 3.1 lb/day. Pool math translates that into ppm for your pool size when you "add chemicals" and choose SWG, % output and pump runtime. You configure the 3.1 into pool math once and it always comes up that way.

I have the 60. My pool uses 2ppm per day. I set it to 15% output and it adds 1.9ppm / day. You set the %, but it translates to ppm.

Correct, almost all cells do not read FC and adjust.

 

[JamesR]

Ok, understood. Thank you

 

[jgofnj]

I think you will love having the SWG in the NE region. I am in NJ and love my SWG, I never have to worry about liquid chlorine and because my pool is only open 5-6 month of the year, I am using less than 1,000 hours per year. Most SWG are rated for 10,000 hours, so I hope to get at least 8-10+ years out of my SWG, even if I get 7 (high end of the average) I still make out. I have the IC40 and love it for my 18K gallon pool.

 

[JamesR]

That’s good to hear JG.
I am looking forward to the switch. Especially considering the amount of cases of 12.5% chlorine I buy each year at OCJL.
I use 3-4 gallons a week. The price of bleach/chlorine has really gone up this year.

 

[JamesR]

Uh oh… I think I have a plumbing design that will prevent me from safely being able to go the SWCG route. Take a look at my return manifold. That left most line in the picture next to the heater is the spa return. You will notice the small 1/4” line just to the right of that Jandy valve. That’s the old puck chlorinater feed. It is there to prevent highly chlorinated concentrations getting to the spa. If I have an SWCG module plumbed to the main return manifold upstream of that, how do I prevent the spa from being super chlorinated? I would need the SWCG to be plumbed the same way, feeding the plumbing after the spa’s return valve. But I have no way of doing that.
Thoughts on this?

 

[dradam]

You are getting a lot of great advice about plumbing and location. As you think about your swcg and new pump you may want to consider how they Integrate if you are considering full automation in your future.
Products within one brand tend to play better together.

 

[JamesR]

Bump….for some feedback on my possible issue in my post #11 above regarding over chlorination of the spa.
Thanks.

 

[mknauss]

Without automation, you have a dilemma. It is best to have the SWCG so that it can add chlorine while in spa mode. But, you need to reduce its generation % due to small volume of the spa. An automation system does that.

So, in your case, you are best to put the SWCG on the pool return only. When in spa mode, you will have a lowering of FC during use, but when you switch to combined flow after, it will get flushed to the system. So as long as you do not use in spa mode for extended periods (an hour or so), you will be fine.

 

[JamesR]

The position of the valves in that picture is how I typically run the pump. All valves at 50% open. So I think the spa will have a very high concentration.
I can’t see how to plumb the unit to just the pool and not the spa.

 

[mknauss]

The valves are in what we would call 'Pool Mode'. The water is being added to both spa and pool, and the spa is spilling over into the pool. Thus the water in the spa is identical to the water in the pool.

 

[JamesR]

Hmmm so it’s only going to be an issue when running purely spa mode unless I turn down/off the SWCG while using the spa. I can handle that. I’m the only one in the household that touches anything out there.
I’m having a hard time understanding how the spa will not be way higher Cl concentration when in pool mode. The spa drain is also on, so it’s basically two separate pools running in parallel as I see it. A 500 gallon pool and a 28,000 gallon pool.
Unless it has rained and the water level is a tad high, it doesn’t spill over. It just circulates. So I’d think if the pool was at 5ppm, the spa would be 280ppm. Maybe I’m not understanding it well though.
But that is why I had the tablet chlorinator plumbed where it is.
EDIT…there is also an equalization tube in the wall between the spa and pool. If that matters in this equilibrium.

 

[mknauss]

So your spa does not spill over into the pool? Regardless, if you are pulling from the spa and pool suction at the same time, those waters are mixing, and thus the resultant is one large body.

 

[JamesR]

It will spill over if I open the spa returns over 50% AND close the Spa drain valve to where it’s less that 50%. The equalization tube keeps it pretty level though. The spillover is 1” higher than normal water level if I keep it midway up the tiles. Naturally, if the spa drain is closed, it rises up enough to spill over. Most times….. it’s just circulating.
I want to order the unit by tomorrow before the sale ends, but don’t want to go through the hassle of install only to find out it’s not going to work.
That being said and looking forward to fool proof it, is there common automation systems that work with a Hayward VSP and a Circupool SWCG?

 

[mknauss]

The Circupool is for standalone systems.

You will not have an issue. The waters are mixing. Just not overflowing. Why do you not want it to overflow?