Help! So frustrated... Green tinged, cloudy water, but test shows perfectly balanced....

Crissy976

New member
Aug 13, 2021
2
Kingston, PA
I'm getting so frustrated over this. Here's the rundown in a nutshell:

Had a lot of rain and it's been crazy hot here in NEPA. Water was SLIGHTLY turning a bit cloudy. Shocked it. Next morning it was light green. My daughter and I went in, vacuumed a few clumps off the bottom, scrubbed the sides down, and shocked it again. Next day, still green. Went to local pool store and they tested as follows:
FC=8.6
TC=8.6
PH=7.6
ALK=117
CH=59
CYA=130
IRON=00
COPPER=.10
PHOS=382
They told me to add Regal Calcium Increaser. Did that. Next morning, CLOUDIER than it was before and darker green. Went back to local pool store and they tested and told me to use Metal Out for the Copper and it should take care of the green since it's most likely due to metals in the water. (My Copper went up by a 10th of a point?) See new test results below:
FC=.09
TC=.09
PH=7.4
ALK=109
CH=307
CYA=121
IRON=00
COPPER=.20
PHOS=439
Added that in at about 11am this morning and the filter has been running all day. Hasn't changed a thing. Pool store also told me to load up our floater with the 3" tabs (with CA Hypo) and we did that. Do we need to shock again? That's what the printout tells me that they gave me with our test results on it, but they didn't say anything about shocking right now. She said the pool should be clear by tomorrow morning, but the way it looks right now, I doubt it. Also, do I need to backwash after using the metal out? And when should I do that? Had the pool 2 years and has NEVER been like this. Always clean and clear! :(
 
Welcome to the forum!
You likely need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF100 or the Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
 
Welcome to the forum!
You likely need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF100 or the Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
After reading the SLAM process, and the chart, I'm going to have to do a partial drain/refill since my CYA is over 60?
 
After reading the SLAM process, and the chart, I'm going to have to do a partial drain/refill since my CYA is over 60?
Maybe. The problem is that you're basing that off of pool store testing. Pool store testing is incredibly unreliable, we don't base any advice on pool store testing because we just cannot trust it.

That's why we emphasize personal testing with kits capable of the accuracy and precision necessary to perform the SLAM Process. Attempting to make changes when you can't trust the results might lead to more problems or unnecessary and costly changes. Knowing what you're dealing with is the most important part of water management, both in fixing problems and preventing them.

And welcome to TFP!
 
After reading the SLAM process, and the chart, I'm going to have to do a partial drain/refill since my CYA is over 60?
As Donldson said, we have no idea what your water chemistry is. So until you get a proper test kit and provide reliable data, our recommendation is to add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine each evening with the pump running.
 
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