Help please :)

I've read that some lower end SWGs will shut off production of chlorine if the salt is too high. Maybe that's what is happening here. Also, did you notice that the max output says 3ppm? That's not enough for sanitary pool is it?
 
I;ll be honest Karyn,
I distrust most salt test kits except for the Taylor K1766. They just do not work well at all.

unless your care takers put salt in the pool while you were gone, then there is no way its 4800.
If you want to investigate teh salt level further, then get 3 jars of water and take them to 3 different pool stores and have them test the salt level and see what they all say.


On your SW system, there are 4 status on the left hand side of the unit. If any of them are lit up, then there is something going on.
Are any of the status lights lit up?
system error
Check Cell
Low Salt or
Waterflow?

If they are not lit up and the power light is on, then it should be making chlorine.

You were right in the beginning, I did say 4800.

The salt doesn't say Low Salt. All the tests were high on the salt. The Free Chlorine and CC are what are ZERO :( My salt right now is definitely high.
 
Ok that makes me feel better because none of the lights are lit up and none have been.

The salt reading when it was 3300 was based on the strips - the 2 readings yesterday were done at two different pool stores and both were within 100.

So just go ahead and get PH down and CYA and chlorine up at this point?


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The way a SWG detects the salt level is by the resistance in the cell while its generating. As a cell fails it reads lower salt readings. So if you are getting a low salt indication and are sure that the salt level is actually high, it may be a bad cell. Since this is a new build I would get your pool builder involved with this. You can check to see if the SWG is putting out any chlorine, just compare the FC of water taken from the pool with water sample taken directly from the pool return. The latter should be higher.
 
I've read that some lower end SWGs will shut off production of chlorine if the salt is too high. Maybe that's what is happening here. Also, did you notice that the max output says 3ppm? That's not enough for sanitary pool is it?

What does this mean?

- - - Updated - - -

The way a SWG detects the salt level is by the resistance in the cell while its generating. As a cell fails it reads lower salt readings. So if you are getting a low salt indication and are sure that the salt level is actually high, it may be a bad cell. Since this is a new build I would get your pool builder involved with this. You can check to see if the SWG is putting out any chlorine, just compare the FC of water taken from the pool with water sample taken directly from the pool return. The latter should be higher.

How would I get water directly from the pool return without touching the water in the rest of the pool.... or just in the general vicinity of the return?
 
How would I get water directly from the pool return without touching the water in the rest of the pool.... or just in the general vicinity of the return?

Simply hold your thumb over the top of the test bottle until you put it in the steam coming out of the pool return and fill it. It should test higher for chlorine than a sample from the general pool water, if the SWG is working when the test is taken. Make sure the SWG is set to its highest output setting, otherwise it cycles on and off, depending on its setting.
 
SimpleBlue Salt Water System is a rebranded Saltron Reliant chlorine generator made by Solaxx in Delray Beach, FL.

I went to simplebluesalt.com and downloaded the .pdf manual and found this on page one of the manual.

SOLAXX LLC.
601 N. Congress Ave.Suite 308
Delray Beach, Fl 33445
Tel: (877) 976- 5299
Fax: (561) 455-0257
[email protected]
Solaxx Water Treatment Solutions

Going to Solaxx.com I found this .pdf manual which is virtually the same and has just the names changed.

Check out the products page and you find the Saltron Reliant model R7 for the 40k gallon pools. I'm sure you could call them for tech support.
I hope this helps some.
 
Quote Originally Posted by pabeader
I've read that some lower end SWGs will shut off production of chlorine if the salt is too high. Maybe that's what is happening here. Also, did you notice that the max output says 3ppm? That's not enough for sanitary pool is it?

What does this mean?

On the front panel it says recommended chlorine range 1-3ppm, but that is old school pool store thinking, that doesnt give consideration to CYA (stabilizer) level. When you get your CYA up to around 70, you should target a chlorine level of 5ppm, and ensure that is never drops below the minimum of 3.5ppm
 
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Added bleach per pool math. Did the CYA add. Looks good - test in morning!!


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Yes, definitely add bleach to keep your FC at target and keep algae away. Set your chlorine target based on your CYA and the Chlorine CYA Chart.

When you are having a party raise your FC up halfway or so between target and shock level before the party and then test and add more bleach again after the party. It is safe to swim up to shock level. We are having people over tomorrow and I'll be adding bleach to raise my FC in the morning.
 
It is best to round CYA to the next 10, the scale is logarithmic, not linear, so halfway is not 5. With CYA of 50 your chlorine level is too low for a normal day and way too low for a big swim day. Cloudy water and algae are all but guaranteed. Chlorine CYA Chart
 
I don't know if this helps, but my Intex Ozone SWG gave a low salt warning and I added salt. What was really happening was the scale had built up on the generator plates and the unit threw a low salt code. I cleaned the plates (vinegar soak) and then the unit threw a high salt warning. I checked the level with my Taylor K-1766 and I was almost 4000ppm. After a partial drain/refill, I got down to 3600 and the unit is now happy. I am too!

Good luck, keep your FC up and do one step at a time finding your balance point. Or Zen Pool as I titled a post on my pool's status this morning.

Harold
 
Any stabilizer/cya will work fine. It should be 98-100% cyanuric acid in the fine print. Get the dry granules, instead of the liquid. Liquid is a lot more expensive and they are the same.
 
Yea I just tested again still at 50! Time to get to pool math and figure out amount


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Be careful when adding CYA. It can take a week to show the increase on your test, and you don't want to over shoot CYA. If you get it too high, you'll have to let some of the water out of the pool and refill.

Beautiful pool by the way. I hope you enjoy it :)
 
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