Help Paul install his new liner

[Pauls234]

Hello All,

I finally ordered my new liner (http://www.familypoolfun.com/shop/o...overlap-pool-liner/pf-ctrystn-ol-12x48-52-25g) and am going to DIY install, which has me nervous. So, I will have a lot of questions, but I will start with what I need to have on hand first…. I promise to post pics as well!

Initial questions:

Should I go ahead and order new foam pool cove, assuming it will need to be replaced?

Reading old threads it seems that gorilla pads/happy bottom are optional and primarily for the prevention of things growing up and through the liner, my assumption is that since nothing has grown so far, nothing will, thoughts?

Am I ok draining the pool sooner rather than later? Is it bad to leave the bottom (whatever it is, sand I assume) exposed to rain/wind/weather for potentially a week?

How many helping hands do I need? Is it possible to do alone if I needed? (Not my plan, but I may just spontaneously decide to start on it some morning in the next few weeks.)


More questions to come once I get my full plan in place, thanks!

 

[reeves5327]

Hi
I am getting ready to do the same thing, except its not a replacement liner its an initial set-up. Youtube has some fantastic videos. There is a trick with a shop vac that looks like it works like magic. Not speaking from experience here, but from the video it looks slick

 

[BellaBuggy]

I've not done this before so I am not too much help. The only thing I know for sure is that it is not good to leave a pool empty as the walls could cave. They really need the pressure of the water inside to make them stable. So I would not drain until I had the new liner in hand and was ready to get it done in short order.

Good luck!

- - - Updated - - -

Oh and yes, our installers used a shop vac on the liner and it was brilliant. I will definitely do that when it comes time to replace the liner. Worked very well.

 

[Pauls234]

Ok, thanks, I will wait until closer to the day of replacement to fully drain the pool.

Anyone have thoughts on pool cove life expectancy? Based on the shape of the pool edges, it seems to be in fine shape (and I am not even certain it is foam) but wonder if for ~$100 I should simply replace it all since I am doing so with the liner.

 

[Casey]

If the cove seems fine, I woukd leave it. Even, f it's not foam but sand. As long As you dont disturb it, you should save the 100 for beer.

Don't drain the pool until you have the liner and the weather does not predict high winds. This is very important because the wind will wreck your pool.

If nothing has grown through your liner, don't bother with the pad.

Post pics!

 

[Pauls234]

My liner has been delivered!

I am targeting replacing next Wednesday so prep time is on. I have a slight amount of rust forming along the bottom of my walls, two pictures below, one represents what is essentially happening along the bottom all the way around, the other shows where the leak occurred so it is much worse - no idea what that circle is, looks like some trauma was suffered before I was owner??? Nothing rusted through, but is this something I have to repair while the liner is off? Or can I sand and put some kind of coating from the outside to help slow it down?

 

[Casey]

You're going to want to sand, primer n paint with a rustoleum. If That is dirt, you will want to get to get It off the pool. Its your cause of rust.

 

[Pauls234]

It is dirt and rocks right now, so remove the dirt around the outer edge and replace with rocks or something? Is that what you mean?

 

[Casey]

Yes. Something that will allow water to drain away instead of sit on the side of the pool.

 

[Pauls234]

Thank you Casey. Had planned on starting this today but seems I underestimated the remaining time to drain, still got about 5 inches left, but I have the week off so no problem, replaced some rotting deck boards, did landscaping, etc. Level is low enough where I was able to get in and cut the liner and get a look at the inside of the above pictured rusted area. You can see there is a panel that appears to have been adhered to repair damage prior to my ownership and is pulling a way in the corner just a bit. There is some rust on this wall. Good news is, looking down the wall, behind the liner, things look much better and the sand cove seems to be in great shape. So, my plan:

duct tape the panel back in place
Wire brush (or should I sand?) rusty areas on the inside and hit them with a coat (or 2) of rust oleum primer

Sound good? Anything else I am missing before tomorrow when it will be out with the old liner and in with the new? More pictures coming!

 

[Pauls234]

And here is a "before" picture from this morning, it was not easy for this dedicated to TFPer to just allow the water to turn!

 

[kimkats]

I like your plan BUT I wonder if you could/should try to take that patch off to see how it looks under it. Just thinking out loud as it seems as if there is some rust under it. Something to think about. I do think you should at least tape around it if you do not take it off.

Good luck and have a beer for me!

Kim

 

[kimkats]

And here is a "before" picture from this morning, it was not easy for this dedicated to TFPer to just allow the water to turn!

I so understand. All of the work down the waste tube

Kim

 

[techguy]

I would take off the old patch, clean the whole area, prime, paint and then add the patch over the fresh paint. I would also be sure to place a couple layers of duct or PVC tape over the patch to ensure the raw edge ove the patch doesn't wear thru the liner.

If you are going to have the water out of the pool for a week, I would add stakes and guy lines (clipped to the wall's top edge) to support it while you are doing your patches. This will allow you the time to properly and safely make your repairs as they require drying time for the prime and paint stages.

 

[Pauls234]

Good thoughts, thank you. Is there really a reason to paint on the inside? Does it add more protection than say another coat of primer or is it mostly cosmetic?

 

[Pauls234]

uh-oh!!!!

Some of the top rail screws look pretty rusted which wouldn't be the worst thing but they are all in a tight spot underneath the deck (previous owners built the deck over the top rail so I've already pulled up some boards to access). I already have to use a manual elbow screwdriver to get them out, I'm afraid without being able to use the top down pressure of my drill that I'll strip them.

I sprayed them with liquid wrench and let that soak overnight, but if I strip them what is the best way to get them out manually? It almost seems impossible given the tight quarters. I seriously may have to get a circular saw and remove 6 inches of the deck.

As an alternative, a few years ago, I was able to tighten the current liner without removing the top rails, I just lifted the top rail and fed the liner under the coping with a person pulling it through on the other side. I know this is not recommended, but it may be the path of least resistance.

Anyone got creative thoughts?

 

[Pauls234]

The more I look at this the more I think I have to cut the deck, it's been a problem in the past and will be in the future, as soon as I convince my wife there is no other way, I am going to cut the 3 inches or so of overhang.

 

[Casey]

Cut the deck to gain access. This is why my deck is under the top rail by 3-4".

 

[kimkats]

My deck is also "tucked" under my top rail by about 3-4" for that very reason.

Kim

 

[Pauls234]

Well, I went ahead and cut the deck, but did it roughly, just cut out sections above the posts I needed to access and will have to fix it up later, but at least I can get on to liner replacement. Draining water was tediously slow, even with a submersible pump, there is still some water over a third of the pool, though it is less than an inch. I fill the shop vac and then empty it into a tub that stays deep enough for the submersible pump to send it out. Repeat x 267

I did remove the steel patch as suggested and sanded the area, hit it with a rust inhibitor, then re-applied a clean patch using a JB Weld product. Will rustoleum prime and duct tape it as well. Thank you for that suggestion.

And now it is raining.

Question - There are also scattered showers in the forecast tomorrow, am I correct in thinking that trying to smooth over sand during rain is a losing battle? Should I absolutely find a window where I can get old liner out, sand touch ups done, and new liner at least mostly in place before the rain starts?


I'm going to watch some you tube videos tonight to refresh myself for tomorrow and will post back with any more questions, but would appreciate thoughts on what could or should not be done in the rain within this process.