Help me hook up my Edge40, please.

[markayash]

I will document them when i am back home

 

[markayash]

Here is what I found. It's just a vesync smart plug so not perfect but close
1 was the only weird one, I let the others run for a few minutes and settle and check several times. All others very consistent

I am running mine at 120V

1. Seems to jump between 7 and 82
2-49
3-82
4-121
5-144
6-161
7-173
8-194

 

[jmastron]

Why would the salt system need 240? What's the advantage of wiring it 240 as apposed to 120?

Is my diagram correct? I'm assuming the LOAD side becomes energized at 1725rpm?

In my diagram, do I need a jumper wire going to LINE2 as well, If I wire it 240?

Thank you for your time.

I guess what I'm trying to say, I don't understand the relationship between the AUX and the pump. I'll see what the voltmeter tells me.

Thank you all!

A couple things:

- People seem to be assuming the pump runs 24/7 because of the input wiring -- that's probably not the case; I suspect there's an onboard programmable timer like many VS pumps have. In fact, that's the whole point of the AUX relays, to switch other devices when the pump is on or off by that onboard timer.

- Those AUX terminals won't just get powered when the pump is on -- they're just relay terminals with the coil controlled by the pump timer. When the pump is on the appropruate LINE1 and LOAD1 will be connected, and the LINE2 and LOAD2 will be connected. You have to connect inputs to the LINE1/LINE2 to get power on the LOAD1/LOAD2 terminals when the pump is at the right speed.

- This means you could actually use a 120V or 240V for the SWCG. 240V would be a bit simpler since you have it already there. You can just pigtail from the pump's 240V "Supply Power" terminals over to the LINE1/LINE2, then connect the SWCG to LOAD1/LOAD2. This would have the SWCG on whenever the pump is on. You can PROBABLY use the 1725 RPM set, but check that the SWCG's flow switch is satisfied.

- Alternatively, if you want to run the SWCG for a shorter amount of time than the pump, you could use a 120V timer plugged into an always-on outlet, then wire the LINE1&LOAD1 terminals as a switch leg between that timer and the SWCG. That would give you separate control, but the added safety cutoff if you accidentally set the SWCG on time when the pump is off, in addition to the flow switch safety for that.

Which to do depends how often you mess with pump settings, where you do testing, and how often you need to adjust the SWCG output. I test in the house, and like the ability to use an app to adjust the SWCG time remotely since I don't otherwise have remote control over the pump/SWCG. But it can work just fine the other way if you don't mind popping over to the SWCG controller to adjust the percentage.

 

[tcat]

Here is what I found. It's just a vesync smart plug so not perfect but close
1 was the only weird one, I let the others run for a few minutes and settle and check several times. All others very consistent

I am running mine at 120V

1. Seems to jump between 7 and 82
2-49
3-82
4-121
5-144
6-161
7-173
8-194

Interesting! So 4 is actually over 50%. Maybe on 1 it's at the point it barely works, so it's not sure if it's turning itself on or off. I'm on 240v, same watts half the amps. I'm barely using electricity on 2! Beats the heck out of buying gallons of chlorine! Could have payback in a year or two.

 

[Lineman7]

Well... I'm up and running. I had company this weekend. So I couldn't give it the attention it deserved.

Salt tests about 3200 and did a chlorine test yesterday and it was high. Pump is on from 10-6 @ 1800rpm. I'm on level 4 now. Will see how it progresses. I piggy backed LINE 1-2 and jumper over to AUX LINE 1-2.

Thanks for the help yall!

 

[Newdude]

did a chlorine test yesterday and it was high.

*ahem*

It was 'well above minimum' and a great place to be.

Sweet job with the install !! It's been fun following along. Thanks.

 

[Lineman7]

*ahem*

It was 'well above minimum' and a great place to be.

Sweet job with the install !! It's been fun following along. Thanks.

Oh, and the salt water feeling, is a real thing. Yes the kids and I got in the pool yesterday. 60degs isn't very comfortable. But, the salt water is!

 

[Lineman7]

- Those AUX terminals won't just get powered when the pump is on -- they're just relay terminals with the coil controlled by the pump timer. When the pump is on the appropruate LINE1 and LOAD1 will be connected, and the LINE2 and LOAD2 will be connected. You have to connect inputs to the LINE1/LINE2 to get power on the LOAD1/LOAD2 terminals when the pump is at the right speed.

- This means you could actually use a 120V or 240V for the SWCG. 240V would be a bit simpler since you have it already there. You can just pigtail from the pump's 240V "Supply Power" terminals over to the LINE1/LINE2, then connect the SWCG to LOAD1/LOAD2. This would have the SWCG on whenever the pump is on. You can PROBABLY use the 1725 RPM set, but check that the SWCG's flow switch is satisfied.

This was the route I chose. Thanks!

 

[tcat]

Oh, and the salt water feeling, is a real thing. Yes the kids and I got in the pool yesterday. 60degs isn't very comfortable. But, the salt water is!

60 degrees! Brrrrr. I'm barely in it at 80. You may find 4 is still too high for 8 hours. Mine's on 2 for 8 hours and keeping up. My run:
1 hour 2750 (for skimming)
8 hrs 1750 (SWG running)
1 hour 2750 (for skimming)
My heater takes about 1650 to run, so it heats 10 hours, but usually shuts off at set point at about 5 hrs. (Or doesn't run once peak summer hits)

 

[Lineman7]

60 degrees! Brrrrr. I'm barely in it at 80. You may find 4 is still too high for 8 hours. Mine's on 2 for 8 hours and keeping up. My run:
1 hour 2750 (for skimming)
8 hrs 1750 (SWG running)
1 hour 2750 (for skimming)
My heater takes about 1650 to run, so it heats 10 hours, but usually shuts off at set point at about 5 hrs. (Or doesn't run once peak summer hits)

Good to know. Thanks for the info. I'll check FC today, but I'm sure I'll be turning it down like you said.

My heat pump is sitting at the freight company. I'm sure I'll get it today. I was wondering what kinda flow it's going to need.

60degs isn't fun. But we jump in the pool for a minute and then go get in the hot tub

 

[tcat]

Good to know. Thanks for the info. I'll check FC today, but I'm sure I'll be turning it down like you said.

My heat pump is sitting at the freight company. I'm sure I'll get it today. I was wondering what kinda flow it's going to need.

60degs isn't fun. But we jump in the pool for a minute and then go get in the hot tub

I have had a Gulfstream for 6 or 7 years. Claims it'll run at 40gpm. If I have a clean filter I can run at 1500, but it will shut down once it starts getting dirty, so I run at 1750.

 

[markayash]

Oh, and the salt water feeling, is a real thing. Yes the kids and I got in the pool yesterday. 60degs isn't very comfortable. But, the salt water is!

That’s why we all had to learn having a FC of 7 doesn’t make you feel sticky.

Probably been told this by others but don’t shot for the low end. It will bite you one day.

I keep my CYA around 60 and my FC around 7 and it stayed perfect all year.

I am out of town for a week or 2 and don’t have to bug the kids to do anything. It will perfect when I get home.

 

[Lineman7]

That’s why we all had to learn having a FC of 7 doesn’t make you feel sticky.

Probably been told this by others but don’t shot for the low end. It will bite you one day.

I keep my CYA around 60 and my FC around 7 and it stayed perfect all year.

I am out of town for a week or 2 and don’t have to bug the kids to do anything. It will perfect when I get home.

If I can get a handle on my dang PH, then I'll be trouble free....

 

[tcat]

Yeah, my TA was 250. Took 3 weeks of aeration and 2 gallons of acid to get it to 100. I'm hoping ph doesn't move above 7.8.

 

[Lineman7]

Yeah, my TA was 250. Took 3 weeks of aeration and 2 gallons of acid to get it to 100. I'm hoping ph doesn't move above 7.8.

I won't complain about my 140 then... lol

 

[markayash]

If I can get a handle on my dang PH, then I'll be trouble free....

I use to go nuts trying to keep my PH around 7.4 and finally let it drift and it stays around 7.8. I still add acid every 2 or 3 weeks, don’t measure just pour what I think is a few cups
I keep my TA around 60 and somebody said to raise my calcium hardness which also helped.

Once you get it dialed in it’s depressing, you go test ready to “ fix it “ and it’s spot on

 

[Lineman7]

I use to go nuts trying to keep my PH around 7.4 and finally let it drift and it stays around 7.8. I still add acid every 2 or 3 weeks, don’t measure just pour what I think is a few cups
I keep my TA around 60 and somebody said to raise my calcium hardness which also helped.

Once you get it dialed in it’s depressing, you go test ready to “ fix it “ and it’s spot on

Yeah the calcium hardness is my next thing to address. I'm at 550 right now. I bought some PEX last weekend to tap into my water softener. Hopefully that'll help.

 

[tcat]

Mine was at like 800, had to drain 50% to get it to 450. Nothing seemed wrong at 800, so I'm going to ignore it for a while. I'm about to hook up my spare Stenner (now that I don't need bleach) for acid. Plan to add about 16 ounces of 4:1 diluted acid per day.

 

[Lineman7]

Mine was at like 800, had to drain 50% to get it to 450. Nothing seemed wrong at 800, so I'm going to ignore it for a while. I'm about to hook up my spare Stenner (now that I don't need bleach) for acid. Plan to add about 16 ounces of 4:1 diluted acid per day.

You'll be hands free at that point..... I need to check into the Stenner setup.