Swamp,I don't think you need to be worried about the combustion blower Rear'y. because if it was not working correctly you would not close the normally open contacts on the air pressure switch and put power to the pressure switch proving terminal (PS) on the fenwal ignition module to start the ignition sequence. If you wanted to check the combustion blower Rear'y, just use a multimeter to check the 8mfd/370v ( + or - 5%) capacitor under the end cap of the motor and make sure that the running amps are under the listed full load amps (FLA) on the motor nameplate.
Weird! I just got my laptop back because 3 of the keys started typing on their own sometimes and wouldn't work at all other times. Had to send it in to get the key board replaced.You would think I was on a phone texting with autocorrect
Allen,Chris, you have any idea how your ground problem was caused by the water spill? It sounds like the ground problem occurred independently which confused diagnosing all the water spill problems.
One of the problems when electronic HVAC thermostats first came out was feedback from the electronic circuit board in the furnace causing an intermittent bad reading on the flame rectification circuit. The solution ended up being installing an isolation relay to separate the 2 circuit boards when it was in the heating mode.
Swamp,One of the problems when electronic HVAC thermostats first came out was feedback from the electronic circuit board in the furnace causing an intermittent bad reading on the flame rectification circuit. The solution ended up being installing an isolation relay to separate the 2 circuit boards when it was in the heating mode.
In all of the negative pressure gas valves that I have checked and adjusted, I have been able to get a pretty stable reading. Since your combustion fan assembly should be running at a pretty stable speed, I would check the gas pressure at the inlet side of the gas valve while the heater is running to make sure that your inlet gas pressure is stable while running.