Hello. I purchased a home with an inground pool at the end of last summer and am now attempting to open it for the first time. The pool uses an Autopilot SWCG system. Before starting the opening process I removed and cleaned both the salt cell and union screen. After removing the union screen I noticed a loose piece of plastic plumbing resting at the bottom of the pipe below where the union screen sits. The piece is conical in shape with a 1.5 inch diameter at its widest point. There are a few nicks and rough spots along its rim but no jagged edges or any other evidence that would suggest it broke off another piece of plumbing. Attached are a few pictures I took of the piece and the location of where I found it. Does anyone have an idea of what this could be? If it's a vital piece of the pool plumbing I want to make sure to get it repaired or replaced prior to opening. Thanks in advance.
Help Identifying Piece of Plumbing
- Thread starter Nygmen712
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,111
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP.
Looks like a cap to something.
@kadavis @Pool Clown @ps0303 @RDspaguy @swamprat69 ideas?
Looks like a cap to something.
@kadavis @Pool Clown @ps0303 @RDspaguy @swamprat69 ideas?
This might have been a part for winterizing the cell. There should be screen placed in there when in normal operation. Google Autopilot manual
Yes, I am aware of the screen. I found the loose piece after removing the screen for cleaning.
Pool Clown
In The Industry
Its the gate off the check valve. Rubber seal is missing. (pic that has the clear piece with the "flow" sticker on it.
Thank you, that's very helpful. Will the system function properly without it or do I need to get it fixed? Seems the only way to fix it would be to disassemble the whole base.
Pool Clown
In The Industry
To all who read the following:
This is not an invitation for argument.
It has been the practice that a check valve be plumbed in just upstream of the Chlorinator, or somewhere in between the heater and the chlorinator to keep concentrated chlorine from flowing backwards into the heater and causing corrosive damage after the filter pump shuts off. The fact is, once the pump shuts off, electricity to the chlorinator is also shut off halting chlorine production. In the event that the chlorinator is not wired to the filter pump but rather wired directly (always on), the unit also has a flow switch that would turn the unit off when no flow is detected, i.e., same outcome. And since there would be no corrosive buildup of chlorine, there is little use for a check valve at that location. But since i am a warranty station for several SWCG manufacturers, i am obligated to say, yes, there should be a check valve there.
Note: The above relates to salt water chlorine generators only! Erosion feeders and injection types DO NEED check valves.
This is not an invitation for argument.
It has been the practice that a check valve be plumbed in just upstream of the Chlorinator, or somewhere in between the heater and the chlorinator to keep concentrated chlorine from flowing backwards into the heater and causing corrosive damage after the filter pump shuts off. The fact is, once the pump shuts off, electricity to the chlorinator is also shut off halting chlorine production. In the event that the chlorinator is not wired to the filter pump but rather wired directly (always on), the unit also has a flow switch that would turn the unit off when no flow is detected, i.e., same outcome. And since there would be no corrosive buildup of chlorine, there is little use for a check valve at that location. But since i am a warranty station for several SWCG manufacturers, i am obligated to say, yes, there should be a check valve there.
Note: The above relates to salt water chlorine generators only! Erosion feeders and injection types DO NEED check valves.
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