Help! High CYA/Switching to this from pool store testing and chemocals
- Thread starter Ilovemylife1129
- Start date
- Mar 5, 2020
- 3,070
- Pool Size
- 66000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V35
And definitely get pH down to 7.2 before you add the bleach. pH will go up during the Slam, you need to compensate beforehand. You won't be able to test pH during the slam, high FC interferes with the pH test.
EDIT: If you have added the bleach already without adjusting pH, then I'd suggest to add enough muriatic acid to bring the pre-slam pH of 7.5 down to 7.2 (use PoolMath, enter all water parameters into PoolMath, especially TA influences the amount of acid required for a desired pH change). Don't add any more acid for now.
EDIT: If you have added the bleach already without adjusting pH, then I'd suggest to add enough muriatic acid to bring the pre-slam pH of 7.5 down to 7.2 (use PoolMath, enter all water parameters into PoolMath, especially TA influences the amount of acid required for a desired pH change). Don't add any more acid for now.
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I did already start so I will have to get that and add today. Also, am I supposed to round my CYA or make a guess like 32 or 38 if it is in between 30 and 40?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,515
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Round up your CYA to the next highest whole value. So a 32 or 38 to you is a 40. The scale is logarithmic. You can not interpolate the scale.
You can use up your pH down if you want. We do not recommend long term use as it allows for sulfate buildup in the pool water.
You can use up your pH down if you want. We do not recommend long term use as it allows for sulfate buildup in the pool water.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,515
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Depending on your pool volume, you can use a 2 or 4 cup plastic measuring cup or, if the pool volume is large enough, you can just guesstimate right out of the jug. Large pools normally need a quart or more of acid when you adjust pH.
So we pulled our steps out today and I think it is the sandbags we put in our steps to hold them down. We put sandbags inside of another bag that holds them. We are going to get new sandbags. Do you think we can clean the bags that hold the sandbags?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,515
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If you can soak them in bleach water, say in a tub or bucket.
Not sure if this is the actual product you're using or just a picture from an old jug lying around, but if you are adding from the actual jug in the photo then it's probably lost all of it's strength as the date code shows it was manufactured in 2010.
I am using that. How do you check the code for the date? The products have been tasing my chlorine each time I check so I would think it’s working?
There's a 5 digit code on the jug. I actually think that this was from 2018, not 2010.
If you look at the jug in the photo the code is (to my eye) 18 255 meaning that it was made the 255th day - Sept 12th - of 2018
CYA is a killer and pool stores love it because most pool owners don't understand relationship with FC and CYA level. At a CYA of 100 your FC should be 11-13. If you use test strips or a talylor kit they tell you to keep FC at 3-4 ppm. and then gusee what you get cloudy water and algea so they sell you shock(with more CYA in it) and algecide. Rinse and repeat. That was my life for 10 years until i found this place. Keep CYA at 50-60, bleach(which doesnt have CYA, and keep FC in range of CYA. Clear perfect water after that! Havent had a cloudy pool or algea for 3+ years now.
Very fine balance as it is needed so sunlight doesnt kill all of your chlorine. What most people dont know is pucks and shock add a ton of CYA to the pool which never goes away good read here;
Very fine balance as it is needed so sunlight doesnt kill all of your chlorine. What most people dont know is pucks and shock add a ton of CYA to the pool which never goes away good read here;
Thanks so much for the help. My FC went from 16 last night to 11.5 this morning so still SLAMING! But my CC was 0 this morning and my CYA has been steady at 40.
I’m done SLAMing when I lose 1 or less ppm of FC from night to morning correct?
I’m done SLAMing when I lose 1 or less ppm of FC from night to morning correct?
The 3 criteria to pass a OCLT are: overnight loss less than 1 PPM, CC under .5, clear water
So I did check and that one bottle of chlorine must have been some strange circumstance it ended up in the boxes with the other chlorine as all the other ones are different bottles and are made recently like in the last month of 2020.
How long bleach to water and how long would you recommend soaking them? Also, can I use the liquid chlorine?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,515
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You can use the liquid chlorine, that is bleach too.
Should work really quick. A couple hours, over night. Move them around so bleach water gets to the whole bag.
Should work really quick. A couple hours, over night. Move them around so bleach water gets to the whole bag.