Help. First time pool owner in Nassau County, NY.

[Catanzaro]

Remember, that each day you loose a % and not 1.5-3 ppm, or the process would be simple math. This is why we recommended dosing the pool daily, every other day, instead of weekly. In addition, if you have algae and cc in the pool, the process will go faster.

 

[Pool Amateur]

Did you already buy te slimebag? If not, there's likely no need.

I agree that passing the SLAM is the focus at present. And I think Swampwoman is one of the top experts on this forum and not only that but most of the other experts think Slimebags are not necessary. However, I feel they are effective tools and are as cost effective, easier and safer to use than DE (will include here I have never used DE to compare). I will also entertain the idea that there may be something wrong with my filter that I do not know about, and have also read differing numbers on what size particle a sand filter is able to filter out (and I do have new sand, even though I am of the opinion sand does not wear out). And most experts recommend DE added to sand filter to give that extra fine filtration. I believe my Slime bag filters down to one micron (can get them in several different particle sizes). Takes me about 2 min to get it out put it in pool and 10 min to clean it and put it away. Again I do not use DE but when I use slime bag I am amazed at the amount of dirt that it collects and it is filtering water that has just come out of my filter as it is attached to the return line. I used it during my slam of a swap last year and also during 2 quick slams I had to do when using solar cover. It catches algae that my filter does not. So to me it is a good alternative to DE with a few enhanced advantages. While I have nothing bad to say about the Slime Bag company, when I need to replace mine I will probably buy the Duda diesel bags and modify as suggested on this site, not only are they much cheaper but I think they will be even easier to clean. Again, I will keep reading and reserve the right to change my mind if someone has info that changes my mind.

 

[George D]

Swampwoman, I did not buy the slime bags yet. Yes my focus is on passing the SLAM but unfortunately, I won't be able to do the OCLT until tomorrow night.
Yesterday I let the kids go swimming after the test result showed FC-10 and CC.5. Weather was cloudy again around 4 and I added 3 gallons of 12.5% chlorine. The test results as of this morning at 6AM.
FC-17.5
CC-.5
I added 1 gallon of 12.5% chlorine to bring ppm somewhere between 20.5-21. I will test again around 3.

I purchased something called Poolskim and installed it yesterday. It captures small stuff including little bugs like mosquitoes, at the surface, before they reach the bottom. So far, it's working pretty well. I attached it to one of the 2 shallow returns that face each other by the steps. There's a little whirlpool effect...the website says Venturi. I saw there was lots of little objects including leaves in the bag that this is connected to. Since I have plenty of trees nearby, I think this item is needed.

Once the SLAM is complete, how long should I keep the filter running? I read anywhere between 4-8 hours. That's a big disparity.
I have a dumb question but I would like to confirm. Is it ok to swim in the pool when the pump is running? I think it's fine but just want to make sure.

The pressure continues to show about 20-21 PSI when the valve is at the 6: position. (Skimmers and drain on) It shows 15-16 PSI in the 9: position. (Skimmers on only) Pool Amateur, I remember speaking to you briefly about this and you mentioned this should not happen in a properly working system.

 

[Swampwoman]

Hi George. Just a quck check-in on lunch

1. Pool skim is awesome, I use one and it really helps

2. Slimebags are reported to be great for polishing water - I only meant that its not necessary. Didn't mean that it wouldn't be a nice addition. It might help you catch stuff

They do capture to 1 micron. Sand filters capture to about 30 microns. DE to about 5 microns. But my robot filter goes to 5 micron so I haven't bothered with the slimebag personally. I only have 3 returns, one s used by pool skim, one on my steps, so I prefer to keep the deep end one wide open.

3. Run time on filter is usually determined by water turnover (eg how long it takes) and a bit of experimenting. Most systems are designed to turnover volume of water once every 8 hours on full flow.

I'm an advocate of heavy filtering, as I feel it helps avoid problems. I run my own filter 24/7 due to forest border and heavy debris traffic that I prefer is skimmed by skimmers as opposed to dropping to the floor.
BUT I've also now upgraded to a variable speed pump in order to do this economically.

I AM A MINORIY on TFP in terms of filter fetish. Many people have great success with very short filter run times. You do not need to do as I do by any means, especially if you have higher electric rates. I just really prefer my water moving.

However, given the trouble its taken to get you clear, you might want to start with filtering sunup to sundown for a week, then slowly decreasing your run time each day to find the happy place between sparkly water and your wallet

 

[George D]

Thanks, Swampwoman for the detailed explanation. Yes, I'm going to have a huge electric bill, with the pump running almost non-stop for about 5 weeks. But our pool season is short so that's ok.

Slime bags sound like a good idea but I don't want to lose another return also, since Poolskim is using one.
Lots of TFP experts have recommended adding a little DE through the skimmers to help with filtration. Is this something I should do soon?

I have two test results to report.
FC-8
CC-0 using 5ml. as of 2:45PM.

FC-7.5
CC-0 using 10ml as of 4:45PM.
I added 3 gallons of 12.5% chlorine right after the 2nd test.
We all went swimming today in between the tests. I did a bit of floating and it was very relaxing and I stretched my back. It felt great. Thanks for that suggestion.
Here is a pic with the pole near the drain.

 

[Swampwoman]

I see you dropped it below your slam level. Have you passed the OCLT?

 

[George D]

No, not yet. Unfortunately because of work, I was not able to be home during sunset and before sunrise the next day. Will this affect the OCLT?
Finally, I will be doing the test tonight and tomorrow morning before sunrise.

 

[Swampwoman]

So is the pool at slam level now? You need to maintain slam level until you've passed the OCLT.

 

[George D]

Ok. Test results as of 1:30PM.
FC-8
CC-0.
I added 3 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine which should raise FC to 18-18.5. The chlorine bottle shows 17114. That means the chlorine is almost 2 months old. I keep the bottles in the house instead of the garage to reduce deterioration.
I will test again around 6PM after the sun stops hitting the pool and adjust chlorine levels to maintain SLAM and then take the 1st part of the OCLT test between 8:30-9.

 

[George D]

I have two test results.
FC-14
CC-.5
as of 6:45PM Added 1 gallon of 12.5% chlorine right after.

2nd test which is the first part of my OCLT taken at 8:50PM.
FC-14
CC.5
I will take the second part around 5AM.

 

[George D]

Good morning. The 2nd part of the OCLT results: Tested at 5:00 AM
FC-13
CC-.5

FC level went down by one since last night's test.

 

[Pool Amateur]

Congratulations, Party time!!
How about posting full test results PH, CYA, TA, CH. How about another pick of a dime in the deep end.

Love to see that pool.

 

[George D]

I noticed some water loss and checked the waste port. Yes, it's leaking. I guess it's better than the liner leaking. Called a couple of pool stores to buy a spider gasket and some unions. Leslie's says they have it using my filter's model!# but then they asked for the MPV model # and they said I need to replace the whole valve itself also.
I'll wait to hear some comments from here before I do anything.
Anything else I need to buy or check before opening up multiport valve?

 

[George D]

Full test results.
FC-5
CC-0 as of 6:30PM. Added 16 oz of 12.5% chlorine.
The rest were taken at 8:30PM.


PH-7.0 it took 2 drops of R-006 to bring results to 7.2.
TA-30.
CYA- Less than 30. Saw black dot all the way. Stabilizer is currently suspended in sock near deep return.

I'll be adding Baking Soda and Borax tomorrow also.

 

[Pool Amateur]

Leslie's says they have it using my filter's model!# but then they asked for the MPV model # and they said I need to replace the whole valve itself also.

What is the multiport valve #? You probably do not have to buy the whole valve, and especially at their price. Here is a link to an Ebay store that sells some aftermarket gaskets that you may be able to use in a valve that has the spider gasket integrated into it. Click onto their store site there is a phone # to call to see if they have what you need. If not you can buy the seal assembly plate for about $20 (need to do good search to find it for $20 most want $27) and replace it in the valve, or you can buy the top half of the valve for about $50, or buy whole valve online. I paid $70 2 years ago for whole valve (did not do a good search, top half was $60, bought whole thing for $70 and took top half out and still have bottom, if I ever need it, then found the aftermarket gasket and rebuilt the old valve in case i need to replace again)

 

[Swampwoman]

Thanks for the update, George.
Keep us posted on your progress.

 

[George D]

Good news. It appears that the leak coming from the waste port was due to increased pressure coming from the Poolskim product I purchased recently. I installed it in the shallow end where two returns face each other. There is also a small connection with a hole facing up and the poolskim pushes water out of this hole. Pic attached.
After I disconnected it yesterday, the leak was minimal and today there is no leak coming from the waste port.

I added a pool sock in the net and the Poolskim picked up the smallest objects. It works very well but I need to solve the leaking issue.
I will look into either moving the valve a bit to change the pressure of the returns or replacing the eye jets from the returns with slotted ones...the slotted jets are supposed to reduce pressure in the return so to have a bit more pressure where the Poolskim goes or placing the Poolskim near a deeper return.
Any suggestions?


I will still purchase the spider gasket just to have in case I do need it.

 

[George D]

The Multiport valve # is 27-2599. The pool rep at Leslie's wasn't sure if I needed a 1 1/2 inch or 2 inch spider gasket.
Thanks for that link.

 

[Pool Amateur]

Here is an excerpt from an old thread; 27-2599 is actually the Part Number for the Valve Label, and not the six way Valve. The Valve is likely made by Pentair. Check out this link and see if it helps. Item #14 may be what you are looking for.

unfortunately the link brings me to an error, so not the correct # for the valve.

 

[George D]

Thanks for the link Pool Amateur. It worked.

I adjusted the PH and TA yesterday by adding 4 lbs of Borax and 12 lbs of Baking Soda. Using Pool Math, I figured I would be a bit low but it's easier to later adjust that way.
Test results as of 5PM.
FC-3.5. I added 1/2 gallon of 12.5% chlorine.
CC-0
PH-7.4
TA-60
CH-20. According to what I have read, I should raise to 50. Is Calcium Chloride what I need to add?
CYA- A bit below 30. How long does it take for stabilizer to register in tests after it's added in a suspended sock?

I saw a chart here in TFP but I can't locate it. For vinyl liner pools the recommended TA should be 50-90, not 80-120. Is this accurate?

I read that once you add stabilizer, you shouldn't Backwash for at least 1 week. Is this correct? I guess this means I shouldn't vacuum to waste either? Any recommendations on how to get rid of some stabilizer and sand stuck in the deep end?