Help. First time pool owner in Nassau County, NY.

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Ok, I will measure the vent. The website describes the Raypak as an outdoor heater.
Is there an option for indoor installation? Is there a built in bypass valve or does it need to be installed?

The technician said that a vent is no longer necessary for the Jandy outdoor heater. Is this true for the Raypak?
 
I'm unclear by what you mean with indoor/outdoor.
The Raypak is most frequently installed outdoors only because most folks have their equipment outdoors ;). My equipment is indoors, ergo need the vent hood and type B venting to code. This would be true of any heater installed indoors, even those with powered vent.

I don't believe there's any indoor/outdoor distinction among pool heaters, at least that I came across. There are indoor/outdoor installation specification and ancillary parts such as the hood/vent type.

While heaters flow regulars and parts to permit bypassing, btw, that's not the same as plumbing the equipment for a bypass loop. That's your PVC to enable the water flow in the pool system to, via a valve, be diverted entirely from passing through the heater.
 
Ok. Even though your Raypak is an outdoor heater, you still need to vent?
The technician said that with the installation of the Jandy heater, venting will no longer be necessary. He said the heater and venting will be removed and the roof sealed. I must call him for clarification.
 
Any boiler inside any building needs to vent. Its the law ;)

There is no such thing as a ventless gas-burning boiler located inside a structure that I know of. A gas pool heater is a boiler for all intents and purposes.

This link showing Jandy heaters makes clear that n door installation requires the verticle vent hood, just like mine:
Jandy Legacy Pool Heaters - Laars Pool Heaters - INYOPools.com
 
I spoke with the pool heater technician again and I asked him about venting with the new Jandy heater. He stated that venting is not needed and that I would need to remove the old venting and seal the garage roof. I asked him how does the gas heater work without venting and he stated it has built in fans that blow air outside but it can only be installed outdoors.

I asked him if there was an indoor heater that he can install exactly where my old Laars is because I wanted minimal new plumbing and gas line work and he said no....they don't exist anymore.
I think he is wrong because I read a few TFP threads where others replaced their old heater with a new one with almost no plumbing and gas line changes. I will get other opinions.
I see that the Raypak gas heater is highly recommended here and has high ratings in the inyopool site.
I would need to have the gas company authorize a meter upgrade from the current 250.

Swampwoman, can the new Raypak heater you recommended be installed inside my garage, exactly where the old heater sits?
 
Yes, the Raypak I bought can install exactly that way. It is not obsolete, and the pool tech is full of baloney. There is no good reason to put a heater outdoors in the elements when you have an indoor option...an option that typically extends the life a good deal.
Since he was so wrong about this, I'm also beginning to doubt that you actually need a need a new one...its possible it just needs a good cleaning and servicing.

What btu was your old heater? I believe there is also a 207 and a 150 btu in the Raypak. You would not likely need to upgrade your gasline (which can be expensive) or your gas meter if you selected a model with the same btu as your last one.

This one was mine: Raypak Heater 266000 BTU NG ELE - PR266AEN - INYOPools.com

Call INYO and tell them what you're replacing and they'll tell you what model.
 
Wow. Thank you for the info. I can't believe how dishonest some people are. I will contact a plumber who has installed pool heaters and have him check the current heater. I will have to cut and reconnect the pipes that the technician removed.

The current heater is 325k BTU. Inyopool has a 336k BTU heater, which is closer in BTU to my current one. I'll hold off on calling until I find out the status of my current heater. I will update after it's checked.
I still need to deal with the suction side leak.
 
Well, your guy "might" have been correct that youre better off with new, but by saying it had to be the model he sells and outdoors tells me that he wasn't acting in your best interest diagnostically speaking. Eg. He didnt specify a part failure, right? Did he point out any soothing or show you anything? Your specific heater may be obsolete given the age -- is there any chance he misunderstood you when you asked for an indoor replacement?

At any rate, an HVAC technician who works on boilers might also be a resource. Or a pool tech who is first told you're not buying a new heater ;) BUT remember that repair time can add up quickly, so don't spend a ton if you were inclined to start new anyway.

If you use google to search "how to clean a pool heater" you might also come across tips you can try for a general clean.

For the "popcorn noise" - things to look for (for the techncian unless you're comfortable DIY) will be flow problems such as the bypass valve being stuck open, thermostatic control stuck closed, debris in the exchanger.

I should add that although its in your garage, not your house, you are dealing with a system that can produce deadly amount of carbon monoxide just like a house boiler can. If it is not operating correctly, it can be a serious health and fire hazard. So take care in your assessment of whether to repair or replace, and be certain that your type b venting is free of debris in the course of repair or replacing.
 
Yes, the technician said that the popping noise is due to the coil. He said the price and labor for a new coil would cost about $800-1,000. He didn't say that the coil needed cleaning or the heater needed servicing. The heater was working and warm water was coming out of the returns for the little time it was on.
He replaced a small part to see if it removes the noise and it did not. He removed the old part and disconnected the pipes from the heater.

I will have the next technician check it and let him know I won't be purchasing a new heater. I will have him check the venting and if it's operating correctly.
 
Hi George,

If you do decide you need a new heater then I would suggest the 336,000 BTU Raypak Heater. You will want to order the heater in Natural Gas or Propane based on off which type of fuel source you are using, also make sure to get the electronic ignition model and not the milivolt model as there are many places in NY where the milivolt models are not allowed. Here is the link for the 336,000 BTU Raypak Indoor Stack Top which would be required if you are installing the heater indoors. Also Page 15 of the Rapyak Heater Installation Guide gives more information on venting the heater when installed indoors. I hope this helps!
 

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Yes, Patrick. That Raypak 336k BTU NG, was the one I was thinking of purchasing. I'm not purchasing now because I had another pool heater technician check the heater and it was as Swampwoman suspected. The heater is fine and that crackling/clanking sound is due to not enough water flow to the heater. He reduced the gas pressure a bit and the sound went away but it also reduces the BTU's and will heat the water slower.

He said to fix the problem, he would need to return and check the exchanger which could take several hours.
I was thinking no more spending $$ on this heater.
I then asked him if this sound due to water flow is a fire hazzard or if there are any safety issues and he said no safety issues. I then asked if it was ok to run the heater the way it is for future seasons and he said no problem.
So the first technician flat out lied.
Thank you again for your advice, Swampwoman.
 
Gald that helped you get by for the moment. I think once you get your suction leak resolved and get your flow rate up will be a better time for a planned replacement... and when you're ready, Patrick's model recommended (and Inyo) is highly recommended in my books ;)
 
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