Help. First time pool owner in Nassau County, NY.
- Thread starter George D
- Start date
Good morning, George.
Just for the record, I'm semi neutral on the bypass valve. What I meant in my comments was that there's actually only a few rare times you'd use it, though its handy for working on the heater if one needs to without shutting down the pool, and its a wee bit of insurance if you do a lot of treatments
For example, my swamp was crashed and acidic (no TA on opening). I did not have a bypass, so my whole slam ran through the heater. It didnt die until 5 years later at the ripe old age of 15 I doubt that the Ascorbic Acid treatments hastened its demise by much, because its pretty rare to find a heater that lasts 15 years in any conditions. BUT I did also get trace copper readings.
Regarding mineral systems, TFP does not advocate them whatsoever, as they do not adequately sanitize water to TFP ( or EPA) specs and they additionally cause all kinds of staining problems as the levels of copper and or silver accumulate. Just smile and nod at the person talking about them and then file it away as baloney
Just for the record, I'm semi neutral on the bypass valve. What I meant in my comments was that there's actually only a few rare times you'd use it, though its handy for working on the heater if one needs to without shutting down the pool, and its a wee bit of insurance if you do a lot of treatments
For example, my swamp was crashed and acidic (no TA on opening). I did not have a bypass, so my whole slam ran through the heater. It didnt die until 5 years later at the ripe old age of 15
I doubt that the Ascorbic Acid treatments hastened its demise by much, because its pretty rare to find a heater that lasts 15 years in any conditions. BUT I did also get trace copper readings.Regarding mineral systems, TFP does not advocate them whatsoever, as they do not adequately sanitize water to TFP ( or EPA) specs and they additionally cause all kinds of staining problems as the levels of copper and or silver accumulate. Just smile and nod at the person talking about them and then file it away as baloney
Great thread, had not read that one, seems to be some good info that bypass over rated, and if not used well could cause problems. But now you are really becoming a TFPer, knowledge is the key. And armed with knowledge you then can make the best decision for you. And also some things are good and bad depending on how you use them.
Also, Mas985 has a lot of good practical suggestions. Especially if you are going to get a solar cover. Although, I have only had 1 solar cover to compare, my next one will be 5 ml or 8 ml at max. I was able to buy a 12 ml for the price of cheapest 8 ml I could find, too heavy. Also, I will be thinking of cutting up into sections, and using his reel idea. So read his threads. I bought a reel that is wide enough for width, has its drawbacks too.
Regarding mineral systems, TFP does not advocate them whatsoever, as they do not adequately sanitize water to TFP ( or EPA) specs and they additionally cause all kinds of staining problems as the levels of copper and or silver accumulate. Just smile and nod at the person talking about them and then file it away as baloney
George, read Chem Geeks threads about different sanitation methods, I wanted to not use chlorine based system secondary to health problems in the family. After reading what he had to say, came to the conclusion that properly maintained chlorine pool was best for us, and produced the least unwanted side affects.
Good morning, Swampwoman and Pool Amateur.
Now I'm really confused about adding a bypass valve.
What bad things can happen after turning on a pool heater that hasn't been used in at least 5 years? Is there a chance parts could be rusted and rusted water end up in the pool?
If that can happen, I'll leave it and buy a solar cover. I looked up solar covers and thought if I buy one, it would be 12mil. The main complaint from people who bought the 8mil was it only lasted about 1-2 seasons but if it's easier to place and remove from the pool each day then 8mil I agree, 8mil is better.
Ok, Swampwoman. I'll take your advice on the mineral systems.
Since I'll be using liquid chlorine, do you recommend that I purchase a liquidator? I'm thinking that it would come in handy if you're going away for a few days and won't have to worry about returning home and having to fight algae.
It seems like the shallow returns (near the steps to walk in the pool) have strong pressure and are a bit loud. I'm thinking I should slightly adjust the valve to see if that can quiet them down a bit. Is this ok?
Test results as of 12PM, using 5ml
FC-15
CC-1.
Added 2 gallons of 12.5% and 1 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine. It's a sunny day and we will be out until this evening. I wanted to be sure FC doesn't fall below SLAM level.
Now I'm really confused about adding a bypass valve.
What bad things can happen after turning on a pool heater that hasn't been used in at least 5 years? Is there a chance parts could be rusted and rusted water end up in the pool?
If that can happen, I'll leave it and buy a solar cover. I looked up solar covers and thought if I buy one, it would be 12mil. The main complaint from people who bought the 8mil was it only lasted about 1-2 seasons but if it's easier to place and remove from the pool each day then 8mil I agree, 8mil is better.
Ok, Swampwoman. I'll take your advice on the mineral systems.
Since I'll be using liquid chlorine, do you recommend that I purchase a liquidator? I'm thinking that it would come in handy if you're going away for a few days and won't have to worry about returning home and having to fight algae.
It seems like the shallow returns (near the steps to walk in the pool) have strong pressure and are a bit loud. I'm thinking I should slightly adjust the valve to see if that can quiet them down a bit. Is this ok?
Test results as of 12PM, using 5ml
FC-15
CC-1.
Added 2 gallons of 12.5% and 1 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine. It's a sunny day and we will be out until this evening. I wanted to be sure FC doesn't fall below SLAM level.
Actually, George, your water has already been running through the heater since you don't have a bypass.
When you're ready to fire it up there's no harm in so-doing.
I never personally used a liquidator. If you're doing the TFP method the rest of the time, there's no harm in using a few pucks to keep the FC up when you're on vacation. Once you have a test kit and know where to keep you're levels, you've actually got a lot of control that way. That's the beauty of TFP.
Once you've had a season with your pool just dosing manually, you might ave a better feel for whch option suits your lifestyle best. No need to do either right now.
When you're ready to fire it up there's no harm in so-doing.
I never personally used a liquidator. If you're doing the TFP method the rest of the time, there's no harm in using a few pucks to keep the FC up when you're on vacation. Once you have a test kit and know where to keep you're levels, you've actually got a lot of control that way. That's the beauty of TFP.
Once you've had a season with your pool just dosing manually, you might ave a better feel for whch option suits your lifestyle best. No need to do either right now.
100% agreement on what Swampwoman said. Especially waiting till next season to see what semi automated system you like best. Been many complaints about liquidator and some where it works fantastic, but most either go Steiner pump or SWG. I am still collecting info to see what I want eventually. Been leaning toward SWG and since I now know that is how Swampwoman went lean there even harder, but pros and cons on both. I use chlorinator with 3" pucks for vacation. Just know your CYA level and adjust accordingly, If it will get too high, empty out some water before you go. The big thing is know what you put into pool is going to do before you put it in. This is not an option for some who can't do some water exchanges. Also because we are in the northeast, you will see significant drop in CYA over winter.
This way you have time to educate yourself so when you buy you, you buy what is best for you and do not waste money.
Solar cover works with heater to retain heat, decrease your heating bill. My 12 ml is going to last 3 years, this is last , hope it makes it
This way you have time to educate yourself so when you buy you, you buy what is best for you and do not waste money.
Solar cover works with heater to retain heat, decrease your heating bill. My 12 ml is going to last 3 years, this is last , hope it makes it
Ok, Thanks for the great info.
I read on one of TFP's websites that boric acid (level of 30-50) is recommended not only to add an extra spark to the water but I think it mentions it protects the chlorin and doesn't affect the PH and TA.
I purchased a 55 lb. bucket, which would bring my Borate level to 30-35.
At what point can I add this to the pool?
I read on one of TFP's websites that boric acid (level of 30-50) is recommended not only to add an extra spark to the water but I think it mentions it protects the chlorin and doesn't affect the PH and TA.
I purchased a 55 lb. bucket, which would bring my Borate level to 30-35.
At what point can I add this to the pool?
Borates are wonderful and in addition to sparkliness, also help control ph rise.
But please finish the slam, then give us a new baseline reading on all your chemistry first, AND address stains first. Because stain treatment sometimes requires adjustments that are more difficult once borates are added So sit tight on it for now, but we'll be there SOON!
But please finish the slam, then give us a new baseline reading on all your chemistry first, AND address stains first. Because stain treatment sometimes requires adjustments that are more difficult once borates are added
So sit tight on it for now, but we'll be there SOON!Ok, thanks.. I will put the boric acid on ice...for now.
Test results as of 8PM.
FC-9
CC-0.
I'm not sure if the 12 noon test was correct. I was home alone at the time of the test and I have a color vision deficiency, so it's possible that the earlier score was lower than I thought or the loss of chlorine could have come from the sun. It was hot and sunny today and the pool gets hit by the sun during most of the day.
I added 4 gallons of 12.5% chlorine at 8PM.
I retested at 9PM.
FC-17.5
CC-.5
I will test again in the morning before sunrise. Would this count as an OCLT test? I am not sure if all the chlorine from the 4 gallons registered on the test yet.
All the more reason to retest before sunrise.
Should I continue to keep the valve to the drain almost off? and when I vacuum to waste tomorrow, should the valve to the drain be completely off?
I will try to connect the leaf canister but it appears that I may need one of those 3-4 ft. hose connectors. For now, I will try to connect one side to the vac plate and the other to the hose.
Test results as of 8PM.
FC-9
CC-0.
I'm not sure if the 12 noon test was correct. I was home alone at the time of the test and I have a color vision deficiency, so it's possible that the earlier score was lower than I thought or the loss of chlorine could have come from the sun. It was hot and sunny today and the pool gets hit by the sun during most of the day.
I added 4 gallons of 12.5% chlorine at 8PM.
I retested at 9PM.
FC-17.5
CC-.5
I will test again in the morning before sunrise. Would this count as an OCLT test? I am not sure if all the chlorine from the 4 gallons registered on the test yet.
All the more reason to retest before sunrise.
Should I continue to keep the valve to the drain almost off? and when I vacuum to waste tomorrow, should the valve to the drain be completely off?
I will try to connect the leaf canister but it appears that I may need one of those 3-4 ft. hose connectors. For now, I will try to connect one side to the vac plate and the other to the hose.
With the sediment gone, you can open the drain valve IF you're maintaining good pressure with it open.
To vacuum, you always want the drain completely closed.
Last night would not count as an OCLT as 8 pm is still light out. If you had tested right after the sun went down, then tested early this am, then it would qualify as an OCLT
To vacuum, you always want the drain completely closed.
Last night would not count as an OCLT as 8 pm is still light out. If you had tested right after the sun went down, then tested early this am, then it would qualify as an OCLT
Ok. Test results as of 9AM.
FC-16
CC-.5
Wife and I vacuumed to waste after the test with the drain off. Looks like there was some leftover dirt from Saturday's big vacuum job. After vacuuming was done, I turned the pump off, cleaned the pump basket(not much silt)the skimmer basket had more. I turned the valve from skimmers only to skimmers and drain on and ran the pump for 5 minutes when I realized I should Backwash and Rinse. During the first minute, the water was dark and filthy....glad that's out.
Added 3 gallons of 12.5% chlorine after the Backwash at 11AM.
FC-16
CC-.5
Wife and I vacuumed to waste after the test with the drain off. Looks like there was some leftover dirt from Saturday's big vacuum job. After vacuuming was done, I turned the pump off, cleaned the pump basket(not much silt)the skimmer basket had more. I turned the valve from skimmers only to skimmers and drain on and ran the pump for 5 minutes when I realized I should Backwash and Rinse. During the first minute, the water was dark and filthy....glad that's out.
Added 3 gallons of 12.5% chlorine after the Backwash at 11AM.
I just used pool math to go from FC=16 to target of FC=20, I got add 1gal and 2 cups of 12.5% chlorine, so I either made a mistake or your FC is going to now be about 26. That is too high.
Yes, Pool Amateur. I did it this way because by the time I'll be available to add more chlorine, late in the afternoon, the strong sun would have knocked it down somewhat. Can an FC of 26 harm the liner or the equipment?
As long as the FC and CYA match up can I let the kids go swimming during the SLAM process?
FC-10.
CYA-0-20.
With all the vacuuming to waste recently, the CYA level has dropped. I will add some chlorine and stabilizer after the kids get out of the pool.
Short term, I would say NO. Your levels should drift down pretty quickly. If you kept your levels this high all the time, the liner would fade a lot faster than normal and of course shorten the life span of the liner, equipment, etc. It is when powdered chemicals are allowed to sit on the floor or a 3" tablet that can cause problems.
Ok, Thanks Catanzaro.
The kids had a great time. After about 40 minutes it turned cloudy(weather not the pool) and they reluctantly got out. Added 3 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine around 5:30PM and I put stabilizer in a suspended sock near the deep return.
The kids had a great time. After about 40 minutes it turned cloudy(weather not the pool) and they reluctantly got out. Added 3 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine around 5:30PM and I put stabilizer in a suspended sock near the deep return.
Wow. That's a nice blue pool. Is it clear to the bottom? Post a pic looking down into it in the deep end with a skimmer pole for contrast.
For future reference: if a pool hasn't been opened in 5 years, apparently it takes a month to get it good.
For future reference: if a pool hasn't been opened in 5 years, apparently it takes a month to get it good.
Agree with Catanzaro, especially if it drops from 26 to 10 in 2.5 hours at CYA=30, but that tells me still have some organics to kill. It is also possible with all the water exchange you did drop your CYA pretty low. But the big thing is you knew what was happening and had a plan, so I think that is a good job, even if not perfect.
Not only is it a nice blue pool, it is a nice pool period. I am jealous.
Also if you think viability is good in deep end, throw a dime in, if you can easily see whether heads or tales, viability is good.
Yes, Pool Amateur. It appears the CYA is non existent from all the vacuuming to waste and adding new water. I'll be adding in the next few days and take a new CYA test in a week.
This morning, the deep end was a bit cloudy. After we vacuumed to waste it was still cloudy. When I returned in the after 3 to 4 hours and I saw the pool sparkling, I could not believe it. Yes, it was clear to the bottom. I will take a new pic tomorrow Fingaling with the skimmer pole. Big rainstorm today for a few hours so I don't know how it will look tomorrow.
That's a good suggestion, Pool Amateur...about the dime. Since the deep end is I think, about 10 feet deep I'll toss a nickel though.
I have not forgotten about your suggestion to place a slime bag in the pool to help with filtering small stuff.
Where exactly is the slime bag placed?
This morning, the deep end was a bit cloudy. After we vacuumed to waste it was still cloudy. When I returned in the after 3 to 4 hours and I saw the pool sparkling, I could not believe it. Yes, it was clear to the bottom. I will take a new pic tomorrow Fingaling with the skimmer pole. Big rainstorm today for a few hours so I don't know how it will look tomorrow.
That's a good suggestion, Pool Amateur...about the dime. Since the deep end is I think, about 10 feet deep I'll toss a nickel though.
I have not forgotten about your suggestion to place a slime bag in the pool to help with filtering small stuff.
Where exactly is the slime bag placed?
Did you already buy te slimebag? If not, there's likely no need. Passing the slam and having your filter working right should be all you need now.