Hello - Chris from Charlotte NC

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TheClaw

TheClaw

Member
Jul 7, 2019
10
Charlotte, NC
Third season owning a pool, first two went well. This year I kept the pool open year around and when I had sudden algae after a storm I shocked it and nothing happened. At this point I took my water in to a pool store to be professionally checked. Several hundred dollars later and my pool is greener than before. So now I am using the internet and your forum to try and combat the issue. I made another post about satbilizer at 120 ppm so I hope I'm on the right Trail. I'm not sure how much of the 33,000 gallon pool I should drain before starting over. Any tips?
 
Welcome to TFP!! :wave:

First of all, you need a proper test kit. Pool store tests are questionable at best. You can find the ones we recommend at Test Kits Compared. When you get yours, post a full set of results in the following format

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

If your CYA is reading 120, you need to do a dilution test to determine exactly what your CYA actually is, then determine how much to drain it. You do that by using a mixture of half pool water, half tap water, mix, then test. Multiply the results by 2. For example, if you get a reading of 60 with the diluted sample, 60 x 2 = 120.

We can help you better if you fill in your signature with what kind of pool you have, volume, equipment, test kit. See my sig for an example.

Meanwhile, until your test kit comes or you post results, add 3 ppm liquid chlorine to your pool daily. Brush it around or add to the return flow.

Again, welcome to TFP! We can help you get your pool in shape.
 
Before you try to do anything else, I would exchange some water. You need to get the CYA down. Do that before trying to adjust anything else as adding chemicals would be a waste as you change some water. Simple CYA math ..... if you change 50% of your water, your CYA should drop by 50%. My only concern is you are using testing products that we don't necessarily recommend, so be careful about that. When it comes to water testing, you really do get what you pay for. The TF-100 (link below) is a superb kit that will last all season.

Do your best to lower the CYA to about 30-50 so that you can implement a SLAM Process to remove the algae. Keep us posted if you have any questions.
 
Texas Splash said:
Before you try to do anything else, I would exchange some water. You need to get the CYA down. Do that before trying to adjust anything else as adding chemicals would be a waste as you change some water. Simple CYA math ..... if you change 50% of your water, your CYA should drop by 50%. My only concern is you are using testing products that we don't necessarily recommend, so be careful about that. When it comes to water testing, you really do get what you pay for. The TF-100 (link below) is a superb kit that will last all season.

Do your best to lower the CYA to about 30-50 so that you can implement a SLAM Process to remove the algae. Keep us posted if you have any questions.
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Thank you Texas Splash, what is your best estimate on how much liquid bleach and what else should I have on hand after I replace 2/3 of the 33k gallons? I need this swimmable by July 18th
 
TheClaw said:
I need this swimmable by July 18th
Click to expand...
Once you exchange the required amount of water to lower the CYA, simply follow the SLAM Process carefully. It will work and you will see improvement. If by the 18th you haven't passed all 3 SLAM criteria, I suspect at the vert least the water should be blue and able to see the bottom. So even at SLAM FC levels, you can still swim.
 
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