We have a Jandy VS pump and Jandy NG heater both 2 yrs old. About a month ago I noticed that the heater would shut off after a few minutes showing error message to check flow rate. The pump usually runs at the default speed of 1750. If I increase the speed to 2750 the next setting the heater works fine. We backwashed the DE filter even though the pressure had not increased significantly but the problem persists. The pool plumber asked that I run the pump at 2600 for 12 hrs and see if the pressure changes. It didn’t. He said all was well and to run the pump at 2600 routinely as he thinks 1750 is too low. We have a Jandy SWG and all chemicals are in range. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Heater requires faster pump speed
- Thread starter PoolGuy38
- Start date
sktn77a
Gold Supporter
I had the same issue but my filter pressure was 3.
Does your SWG complain about no flow at 1700?
Does your SWG complain about no flow at 1700?
Heater might be more sensitive then the SWG. I think I noticed my SWG was complaining when the heater low flow light came on so not sure which one complained first
I have played around with measuring amp's on mine ( engineering brain ) and bumping up a few hundred RPM didn't make a huge difference..
On your pump you only have 1700 or 2750? Mine pump has 300 rpm steps but it's a vgreeen, maybe the Jandy folks here can chime in
If so try different speeds..
No only the first speed is the factory set default at 1750. I set the second button ( there’s 4 ) to 2600 at the plumbers suggestion.
sktn77a
Gold Supporter
Try lower speeds - maybe 2000 rpm. Will save some electricity, wear and noise. Sounds like 1750 is at the threshold of you heaters flow/pressure sensor.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 55,441
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You need to do some experimentation.
First backwash your DE filter and start with a clean filter and low filter PSI. Then start at 1800 rpm and increase the RPM 100 at a time and see when your heater begins working reliably. Then add 200 RPM and set that into one of the buttons. The reason to add 200 RPM is you will lose some of the flow over time as your DE filter gets dirty.
If you find the heater stops working before your clean filter pressure rises by 20% then add another 100 or 200 RPM to keep the flow up until it is time to clean your filter.
Basically, you have to find the best RPM setting that works for your plumbing setup.
First backwash your DE filter and start with a clean filter and low filter PSI. Then start at 1800 rpm and increase the RPM 100 at a time and see when your heater begins working reliably. Then add 200 RPM and set that into one of the buttons. The reason to add 200 RPM is you will lose some of the flow over time as your DE filter gets dirty.
If you find the heater stops working before your clean filter pressure rises by 20% then add another 100 or 200 RPM to keep the flow up until it is time to clean your filter.
Basically, you have to find the best RPM setting that works for your plumbing setup.
Thanks ajw22. We just backwashed the filter before the current trial. Our pool plumber suggested the 2600 rpm. He thinks that is the best speed. I like your approach though so I’m going to try it.
I found that I could run at 2000 and had no problem with the heater. I did notice that the chlorine level went up to 8. We have a Jandy True Clear SWG. It was set to 40% . It had been between 5-6. I suppose the increase is due to increased flow rate. I’ll lower the SWG to 30% and see what happens. Any thoughts?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 55,441
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I think your SWG may have also been going offline due to low flow before you raised the pump rpms.
Increasing flow rate does not increase SWG chlorine output.
Increasing flow rate does not increase SWG chlorine output.