Heat Pump plumbed - PSI spiking

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ajw22 said:
You mean your heater?

I see what you mean on Page 35 of the manual - https://cdn.globalimageserver.com/FetchDocument.aspx?ID=A6A43ED9-CCB9-4449-B4AF-AF6111D27828

If you intend to close the pool and winterize it then you need to have that fixed or you will need to open up the unions to blow out the coil.

Or you can plan to keep your pump running in any forecasted freezes.
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I finally got around to adding another valve to make a true bypass; the installer missed that originally on the outlet (upper pipe on HP). Oddly, when I opened the drain plugs on the Heat Pump unions, It's clear a little water is making it past the valves?! When the pump is running and the water set to bypass the HP a short blast of water comes out of the plug(s) when opened. It doesn't seem right that water would be making it past the valves?! Thoughts? Thanks so much!

113577
 
Does water continue to run out of the heat pump? It could be residual pressure that forces a little of water out. If the water continues to stream out, then the valves are leaking. Are those Jandy neverlube valves? When new, they should not leak but a older ones can start to leak a little bit.

If the water continues to leak, take apart the valve and inspect it. Sometimes when valves are glued, some of the glue can prevent the valve from closing properly.
 
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mas985 said:
Does water continue to run out of the heat pump? It could be residual pressure that forces a little of water out. If the water continues to stream out, then the valves are leaking. Are those Jandy neverlube valves? When new, they should not leak but a older ones can start to leak a little bit.

If the water continues to leak, take apart the valve and inspect it. Sometimes when valves are glued, some of the glue can prevent the valve from closing properly.
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Thanks Mas, I'm not sure I understand this question "Does water continue to run out of the heat pump? " Are you saying to relieve the pressure by opening one of the drain plugs, then replace it and come back some time later to see if the pressure has built back up?

They are both brand new Pentair valves - Pentair 263037 & Pentair 263038. Did I mess up by not going with Jandy? I guess I'll dis and reassemble to see if there's any improvement.

Greatly appreciate you insights! I would be lost without this forum
 
When you have the bypass on (HP off) and the drain plug removed, you mentioned water comes out. Is this continuous or does it stop at some point (while pump is running)?
 
I think the valve is just leaking a little. They aren't always perfect. There is really no harm in having water in the heat exchanger unless the chemistry is way off.
 
Slaming isn't an issue but when you say winterizing in FL, what exactly does that mean? Are you in an area where it freezes? Do you completely close the pool or does it still run over the winter? If you drain the pad and fully close the pool then the leaky valve won't matter. If you run the pool over the winter and there are freezing nights, then you would probably want to have the bypass closes anyway to prevent freezing in all parts of the plumbing.
 
mas985 said:
If you run the pool over the winter and there are freezing nights, then you would probably want to have the bypass closes anyway to prevent freezing in all parts of the plumbing.
Click to expand...

If the pool is open in the winter I would prefer keeping the pump running in freezing weather and water circulating through all lines. Moving water is not going to freeze.
 
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