Heat Pump By-pass/ two 3-way diverter valves or one with check-valve

[Drb1]

I have started the plumbing for by-passing the heat pump but ran into a concern. According to all instructions the check-valve should be at the lowest point of the plumbing. This is not quite possible for me because after the heater the returns then run underground. Will the check-valve work anyway? My plan was to put a 90-degree check-valve to the heater output attached to a 2" Y. I would then run a 45 elbow to the 3-way diverter and attach that to the Y.

My other option would be to attach another 3-way diverter to the heater output and other diverter.

I think the reason I like the check-valve better is because it may be simpler to use and only having to turn one valve.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Daren

 

[ajw22]

I don't know what all instructions say that the check-valve should be at the lowest point of the plumbing.

Put the Check Valve on the heater output line.

Using two diverter valves sets you up for damage if someone does not realize that two valves must be opened and only opens one. Or if someone gets the two valves out of synch.

With a 3-way diverter and check valve a misset valve cannot cause any damage.

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[DavidArmenB]

I don't know what all instructions say that the check-valve should be at the lowest point of the plumbing.

Put the Check Valve on the heater output line.

Using two diverter valves sets you up for damage if someone does not realize that two valves must be opened and only opens one. Or if someone gets the two valves out of synch.

With a 3-way diverter and check valve a misset valve cannot cause any damage.

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Well said. I am also for one three way valve and a check valve. The three way valve will not cause any issue no matter where it is set in its’ 180 degree range. it will only go from 100% bypassed to 0% bypassed on the other end of the valve range.