Hayward T-cell 15 and Balance issue

[a3po911]

I replaced half of my pool water due to the California wildfire couple weeks ago , then I was stuck on balancing with two issues:

1, my pool seem not able to hold chlorine under sun light, I shocked the water with adding liquid chlorine to make FC to 15, ORP reading around 800. then FC gone to 0 within 1-2 days, ORP drop to 100.
Base on the Taylor test kit, CYA: 50, TA 95, PH 7.5, CH 370, Salt 3500, pool size is around 32K gallon, the water is crystal so far.

2, I am set my Hayward T-cell 15 for 100%, runing pump for 12 hours/day, but the cell sometimes stops generating after 2-3 hours, or 6-7 hours, the screen showing current is 0, cell voltage is about 31.xx V, replay polarity if off.
My Hayward Omnilogic System is about 6 years old, I have two T-cell 15, one is old, one is brand new, both have same issue.

I am appreciate any ideas here.

 

[ajw22]

How many gallons in your pool?

Does your pool pass a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test? If not, follow the SLAM Process using liquid chlorine.

 

[a3po911]

How many gallons in your pool?

Does your pool pass a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test? If not, follow the SLAM Process using liquid chlorine.

About 32K gal water, overnight test is ok, almost no chlorine loss or less than 1 ppm.

 

[1poolman1]

About 32K gal water, overnight test is ok, almost no chlorine loss or less than 1 ppm.

This time of year, pool water is usually too cold for a SWG to operate and they shut down. It needs to be above 50 degrees for the most part. You don't need much chlorine in water that cold, floating tab feeder will usually supply all you need.

 

[a3po911]

I plan to try sodium dichlor chlorine plus liquid chlorine to shock again tonight, the liquid chlorine I bought from homedepot and Walmart seem have problem, the smell wasl not strong at all.

 

[mknauss]

Dichlor raises your CYA.
Your CYA is too high for using ORP. Needs to be lower than 30 ppm.

 

[ajw22]

2, I am set my Hayward T-cell 15 for 100%, runing pump for 12 hours/day, but the cell sometimes stops generating after 2-3 hours, or 6-7 hours, the screen showing current is 0, cell voltage is about 31.xx V, replay polarity if off.
My Hayward Omnilogic System is about 6 years old, I have two T-cell 15, one is old, one is brand new, both have same

Is your T-cell under ORP control?

What is ORP controlling?

Is the T-cell controlled by the % or ORP. It cannot be both.

 

[JamesW]

LCD display will read “COLD” when the water temperature is below 50o F
LCD display will read “HOT” when the water temperature is above 140 o F
If the water temperature reads 215o F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and the cell needs to be replaced.
Cell Temperature Sensor.
Output is scaled back to 20% at 60° F and output stops at 50° F.

 

[JamesW]

https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/aquarite-troubleshooting-guide.pdf

https://www.royalswimmingpools.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/aquarite_troubleshooting_guide.pdf

https://www.poolwarehouse.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Hayward-AquaRite-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf

 

[a3po911]

Dichlor raises your CYA.
Your CYA is too high for using ORP. Needs to be lower than 30 ppm.

My ORP doesn't control anything, reading only, which is combined with Hayward ph dispense system. the cell is controlled by %

 

[a3po911]

https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/aquarite-troubleshooting-guide.pdf

https://www.royalswimmingpools.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/aquarite_troubleshooting_guide.pdf

https://www.poolwarehouse.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Hayward-AquaRite-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf

I am using Hayward Omnilogic system to control the cell, I don't have AquaRite Chlorinator.

 

[a3po911]

LCD display will read “COLD” when the water temperature is below 50o F
LCD display will read “HOT” when the water temperature is above 140 o F
If the water temperature reads 215o F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and the cell needs to be replaced.
Cell Temperature Sensor.
Output is scaled back to 20% at 60° F and output stops at 50° F.

I didn't notice the water temp could be a problem, my old cell was working fine for 6 years, I will check and test again later.

 

[ajw22]

I plan to try sodium dichlor chlorine plus liquid chlorine to shock again tonight, the liquid chlorine I bought from homedepot and Walmart seem have problem, the smell wasl not strong at all.

You need to log the chemicals added and your daily FC loss in PoolMath

You need to chlorinate with Liquid Chlorine and have your pool need 4PPM of FC per day or less, A loss of 15PPM over 1-2 days says you have algae in your water.

You say you pass a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test but the numbers you provide don’t support that.

See that your pool holds chlorine every day for a week before you tackle your SWG problems.

 

[ajw22]

Test your chlorine additions 30 minutes after adding and confirm the FC level.

 

[JamesW]

Water temp reading from cell and water temp sensor?

 

[JamesW]

Can you show the Chlorinator Diagnostic Screens?

Reverse Polarity and recheck the readings.

Show the Diagnostic Screens in both Polarities.



For the chlorinator to be operating, several conditions must exist:

the filter pump must be running, the flow switch must detect flow, the chlorinator setting must be greater than 0%, the water temperature at the cell must be between 50ºF and 140ºF (superchlorinate will run under 50º except during freeze protection),
and the salt level must be within the operating range.

If any of these conditions are not met, the diagnostic screen will show that the chlorinator is off.

Also, depending on the chlorinator setting, the OmniLogic may be in between cycles and the chlorinator is at rest (cell current shows 0.00A).

To force the start of the new cycle, you can touch the Reverse Polarity button.

 

[a3po911]

Can you show the Chlorinator Diagnostic Screens?

Reverse Polarity and recheck the readings.

Show the Diagnostic Screens in both Polarities.

View attachment 628016

For the chlorinator to be operating, several conditions must exist:

the filter pump must be running, the flow switch must detect flow, the chlorinator setting must be greater than 0%, the water temperature at the cell must be between 50ºF and 140ºF (superchlorinate will run under 50º except during freeze protection),
and the salt level must be within the operating range.

If any of these conditions are not met, the diagnostic screen will show that the chlorinator is off.

Also, depending on the chlorinator setting, the OmniLogic may be in between cycles and the chlorinator is at rest (cell current shows 0.00A).

To force the start of the new cycle, you can touch the Reverse Polarity button.

When pump off:


When pump running with 85% speed just now:

The ORP drop to 280 and ph is 7.7, now,, this morning was 600 and 7.5, the ph is also raising fast, today is 50% rainning day.

 

[JamesW]

Hayward scales back production at 60 degrees to 20%.

I do not know for sure if Omnilogic does this or not.

Contact Hayward and ask them.

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hayward.com

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hayward.com

Output is scaled back to 20% at 60° F and output stops at 50° F.

 

[JamesW]

The diagnostics look fine.

Probably just a 20% issue.

Ask Hayward.

 

[a3po911]

Hayward scales back production at 60 degrees to 20%.

I do not know for sure if Omnilogic does this or not.

Contact Hayward and ask them.

Contact Us

hayward.com

Contact Us

Get expert assistance for your pool-related queries! Contact our dedicated team today for personalized solutions, advice, and top-notch support. Reach out via phone at (908) 355-7995 or email for unparalleled customer service and technical support to keep your pool in optimal condition.

hayward.com

Output is scaled back to 20% at 60° F and output stops at 50° F

I'll call Hayward tomorrow, but usually not helpful, I just don't know why my water can't hold chlorine anymore. it's been working for 6 years without any issues.