Hayward Swimpure plus not working

Wendigo

Member
Jun 18, 2023
6
Jacksonville, FL
I moved into this house a year ago and was told the salt system wasn’t functional and they’d been using a service that added chlorine. I kept up with the chlorine, but now want to go back to using the salt system. I have a lot of experience tinkering with Autopilot systems, not Hayward. The display on the board works, none of the lights come on. I did see the check flow light after I threw the breaker, which blinked red and then turned off. Things I’ve tried:
- took cell (t-15) to the pool store and had it tested, it’s surprisingly fine
- replaced flow switch which had its wire cut and poorly spliced several times
- had water tested and added salt
This morning I popped open the case and I think I’m dealing with the burnt out coin-like thing on the motherboard. I took pics if anyone can confirm, and what the steps are to fixing it. I figure if that’s it I can start there and then look at replacing the board. If that doesn’t work.
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I have the parts and soldering iron - in watching some YouTube videos the guy mentioned that the capacitors can kill you and to be careful - but never really mentions how to be careful. Are there certain parts on the board I shouldn't touch? Of course when I threw the breaker to pop the case off I didn't realize it still had power and touched it, heh. I haven't removed the board yet, once I do that I'll be trying to solder the thermister this weekend. Any tips?
 
I replaced the thermister today and the cell started generating chlorine. The salt was reading low (2400), so we added 40 lbs. I went out to recheck and now it’s reading the salt level as zero and the amps are 0. Here’s the diagnostics:
0
84
32.1
0
72p
-0
Al-0
r 1.58
T-15
I’ve also noticed that the percentage was changing without the dial being touched. The salt cell was tested as functional by the pool store, any thoughts for next steps? I’m not sure if the cell should be replaced or maybe the entire board. I’ve already replaced the flow switch.
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You need a proper test kit for the salt level. What the cell reports is not the real salt level. The real salt level needs to be compared to what the cell is reporting. If cell/real is 0.75 or less, time for a new cell.

Too high real salt level is what damages the board of an Aquarite.
 
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