hayward sp3200dr has died. is it repairable?

jsteggy

LifeTime Supporter
Nov 15, 2011
27
Southern California
Hi, I have a hayward sp3200dr variable speed pump that has stopped pumping. The impeller does not spin - at all. The controller lights up. I checked voltage to the pump and its getting 120 on L1 and L2. but no pump action when I turn it on. Anything else I can check? Would a repair shop be able to fix?
Thanks for the help.
Joe
 
Is the impeller frozen, doesn't spin even when trying with your fingers?

If it is frozen, with the pump off, you can try giving it a few twists with a wrench on the back of the motor. If you can free it up, it may start again.

You can also check the start capacitor on the motor, that would show the same symptom.

Edit: forgot to mention, please make sure the pump is off at the timer and breaker before attempting to twist the impeller with anything, especially your fingers.
 
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You have automation so you want the pump to be compatible with it.

Most likely best to stick with a Hayward pump. Be sure it is compatible with your automation.
 
J, what is the full model number of your pump? I believe you have an Ecostar and are quoting the COntroller DRive part of your pump, AKA SP3200DR...

Either way, Marty makes a good point about keeping your VSP and automation the same, but the only exception I would make is a Hayward Pump. Google the reviews on the ecostar and over 50% are 1-ratings. I'd go w the Tristar perhaps, but definitely not the ecostar....how old is your pump ?
 
J, what is the full model number of your pump? I believe you have an Ecostar and are quoting the COntroller DRive part of your pump, AKA SP3200DR...
I've read those reviews .. dismal. My pump is about 4 years. 1year out of warranty? I'm not looking forward to another hayward pump. Is the Tristar VSP any better - reviews seem to say so. How long do these pumps last? And what do I do with the carcass of this dead pump?
 
J

The smaller TStar 1.85HP seems to be ok, I cannot speak of the 2.7HP TStar. They both have a 4 yr warranty which is good but maybe bad too bc it cuts down on paper wk if they crater btw 2-4 yrs.

Call Hayward and ask to speak to someone in their Engr'ing staff and ask them what's the difference btw the tristar snd EcoStarless besides the rubber seal & 4 yr warranty? Tell him that whatever he says, he must be able to put it in writing, also ask politely for his name at the outset. Tell him that if he cannot provide you a soln to the EcoStarless, that you're gutting your equipment pad of Hayward and going pentair, and you're going to write Clarke Hale and Kevin Holleran ( Pres of Hayward & Pres of Hayward industries, respectively) and inform them that (the person you're talking to) just turned a lifelong Hayward customer to Pentair...let quality drive the Mkt place - good luck

Note: try in earnestness to resolve w tech/Engr, but don't acquiesce
 
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What is the voltage when measuring from L1 to L2?

If you're not getting 220 to 245 volts, there's a problem with one of the wires. Most likely a bad switch or breaker.

You can't measure from L1 to ground and L2 to ground and add them together, especially when both wires are connected to the pump.

If you want to measure each wire to ground, you have to remove the wires from the pump.

Do you control the pump from the Prologic?

If yes, is Remote Control Mode set to Standalone/Hayward in the configuration menu?

Is the COMM Bus Address set to "Pool Filter"?

Are the Comm wires both good?
 
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Hi, The voltage between L1 and L2 is 240v. I do control the pump from the Prologic. The comm lines are both good. But the motor controller complains there's no signal from the prologic. I had someone out to look at it and they suggested the motor controller was the likely issue. Pump is actually a sp3400vsp.
 
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What is the exact measurement between L1 and L2?

Note: Not L1 to ground and L2 to ground and added together.

Can you check the Diagnostic Menu in section 6.9 including the Event Log?

What error codes are you getting?

Is Remote Control Mode set to Standalone/Hayward in the configuration menu?

Is the COMM Bus Address set to "Pool Filter"?


Maybe reset to factory default settings and then reconfigure.

If you disconnect the comm wires, can you operate from the pump controller?
 
Hi James
Here are the diagnostics ... hopefully they shed some light on the issue.
Voltage between L1 & L2 is 238.9 volts +/- 1volt
when I disconnect the comm wires the pump does not operate
Comm Bus Address is set to Pool Filter
Remote mode is set to Standalone/Hayward setting.
error codes:
1: Sensor has failed Previous Power Cycle.
2: Sensor has failed 4 power cycles ago
Diagnostic Menu
Serial Number 0
Drive: 0.00
Display: R3.0.6
Product Version SP3400VSP
Input Voltage too low
Motor Current: 0.0A
Power Usage: 0W
Driver: 0C
Heatsink: 6C
Comm buss: Online
Pump Address: 1

The Prologic controller says Filter: VSP Drive Comm Error
During power on cycle, on the Display: R3.0.6 screen shows initializing... then says Warning: No Comm .
 
The pump is not reading the voltage correctly. I think that Hayward might have a procedure to recalibrate the voltage reading. Call tech support and ask them for the procedure.
 
There's no reason to replace the seals because you're not removing the motor.

If Hayward can't tell you how to reset the drive, ask for a warranty replacement regardless of the actual warranty period.

 
The Prologic controller says Filter: VSP Drive Comm Error

With this error, the drive/controller is toast. And yes, hayward will stick it to you with the price of the "new" same flawed controller that will fail in 12-18 months again. I would trash the whole pump and see how you can get an Intelliflo to work w your system.

To put haywards pricing"strategy" into perspective, how would you like to spend $50,000 on a car, then have the electrical system that controls your engine fail and the car manufacturer tell you it costs $35,000 to replace your electronic module to get your motor to run - NOT GOOD
 

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