Hayward Prologic and Heater Communication Issue

HandsomeJack

Member
Jun 30, 2022
17
Palm Springs, CA
Hello,
Used this forum a bunch as a lurker the last two years and now am hoping for some help with a goofy problem that has come up. My service guy has looked at this and has not been able to do much. I think he thinks it's OK because the heater does turn on. So need to venture out to see if I can fix on my own.

Inherited my circa 2012 all-Hayward equipment when I bought my house 3-4 years ago and it's been working pretty well with regular little fixes here and there. A few months ago, we started having an issue where the heater will no longer fire when it is in bypass mode and instructed to from the Prologic. Prologic LED lights up and acts like it thinks the heater (H400FDN) is on, but it isn't. The only way I have been able to get the heater to fire nowadays is to take it out of bypass and put it in standby and then fire the heater from the button on the PL or from the Hayward wireless remote). Then it will work, but it ignores the temp set points on PL and uses it's own. Which is bad, but i can sort of live with. However, once it is on it will not turn off from the Prologic. Only way I can get it to shut down is via the more button on the heater and flipping it back to standby.

If there were zero comms happening between the PL and heater I at least think I know what to start checking. But it is communicating in some ways. Just not correctly. A few days a ago I opened up the junction box on the heater to check the wiring and it is wired for a two-wire remote connection like this:

Green and Yellow to the Red terminal block
Black and Red to the Common terminal block

I know from the Hayward documentation that it is supposed to be the orange set of wires and not red for the two wire remote. However, I assume that that there is no way that has ever been touched so it seems like it has been this way forever. Definitely the first time I ever opened that box. But maybe not. It is somewhat possible that a service person maybe got in there to try and fix the issue and made a little change. I can very easily swap that but didn't want to start changing stuff without maybe a little advice.

I opened up the PL side as well but didn't take a picture of that wiring. Can do that shortly if that info is needed.

Thank you very much for any comments you might share.
Sean
 
Welcome to TFP.

Post pics of both ends of the two wire connections.

When the heater is not in bo mode the heater will not let the ProLogic turn it on and off and regulate the temperature. Thermostat control will be from the heater and not the ProLogic box.

13B6E9CC-A697-409F-B74D-1C94F00A8694.png
 
Attached are the photos of the low voltage wiring from the PL to the heater. I can see that I am wired to the red set on the heater and documentation clearly says we should be on orange for the two wire solution. Just don't know if that would matter and/or cause an issue like this since I have to believe that nobody has touched the heater side wiring since day one.

Thank you,
Sean S
 

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Jack, it looks like the jumpers to the POOL and SPA circuits are still in place and permently close the control circuits so the Prologic control relay can not control the heater.

Remove the three spade connectors for those orange and white wires.

Then set the heater control panel back to "bo" remote control.

HandsomeJack.jpg
 
Thanks very much. Headed out to the pad now to give it a try.

Yes, that's the way we have always had it and now it does not respond when in 'bo' mode. Taken it out and put back a few times and it's just unresponsive.
Possible that the wire between the automation system and the heater is bad. I would test the wire between the two for continuity. If there is no continuity, the wire needs to be replaced. To test. disconnect the wire from the automation and the heater. Then take either rend, just one, and twist the wires together, Then using a volt meter, test the other end and see if there is continuity.

You could also check to see if the automation system is putting out the required 24 volts to that wire.
 
Possible that the wire between the automation system and the heater is bad. I would test the wire between the two for continuity. If there is no continuity, the wire needs to be replaced. To test. disconnect the wire from the automation and the heater. Then take either rend, just one, and twist the wires together, Then using a volt meter, test the other end and see if there is continuity.

You could also check to see if the automation system is putting out the required 24 volts to that wire.
I'll see if i can do that. Meant to test the wires already but have not because of the complication that it does work/communicate when the heater is in standby instead of bypass. So it is behaving like a three-wire connection but it is not wired (and we don't want) the three -wire. We used it last night and turned the heater for the spa on from the Hayward remote control and it worked. But it is of course using the heater's thermostat and not the prologic in this mode and I don't think the countdown works either. So there is communication from the automation system but not when the heater is set to the correct mode (bypass).

I may try using the other junction box on the heater as an additional test with a new piece of low voltage wire. maybe I've got a bad terminal or something on the heater.
 

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I believe I have this resolved. I did remove those wires from the terminal block and then we had no comm. When I put them back I swapped red/orange so that my connection was now on the orange set of built-in wires instead of red. Which is how they instruct on the manual. Now when I go to bypass mode I get comm from PL and it seems every test I did works. Definitely works fully in spa mode.
The only explanation I can come up with is that a pool tech moved them around in an attempt to solve a 'heater issue' a few months back. Seems like it could never have worked properly that way it was so it had to have been messed with. This is a vacation home so we're not here all the time and it could have gone unnoticed for a bit.
Thanks for all of the help. This forum is a huge resource for pool owners.
 
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