Hayward Heater Smoking and Smelling, but working..

[tbird2340]

Just opened last weekend. My heater is billowing gray smoke pretty much anytime it runs, rain or not. It also has a smell to it that’s hard to describe. Video below.

It still heats the pool.. thanks for any help

 

[ajw22]

Have you opened up the panels in the heater to see what if burning.

It sounds like some critters may have nested in it over the winter.

 

[tbird2340]

So I took some of the panels off and blew it out with a leaf blower, put it back together, and fired it up. Instantly whiteish smoke billows out and a gassy smell. Any ideas?

Thanks

 

[ajw22]

You have to dig deeper into the burner can.

 

[tbird2340]

Thanks for the reply. I did find what appears to be fur shown in the first picture. I sucked that all out and turned on and same smell/smoke.

I took top off again just to ask where you are suggesting I did deeper?

Thanks

 

[ajw22]

Sounds like you have some critters who nested in the heater.

You need to get under the heat exchanger and maybe into the fire box.

 

[tbird2340]

Is this stuff like some type of insulation!?

No dead critter found yet. What next!?

 

[ajw22]

Fireboxes have refactory insulation to direct the heat and not melt down the rest of the heater cabinet.

Critters like to chew up that insulation and I wonder if you are missing some.

I have never got that deep into that heater to know what it should look like.

Maybe @swamprat69 @1poolman1 @wireform @Lake Placid can have a look.

 

[1poolman1]

Fireboxes have refactory insulation to direct the heat and not melt down the rest of the heater cabinet.

Critters like to chew up that insulation and I wonder if you are missing some.

I have never got that deep into that heater to know what it should look like.

Maybe @swamprat69 @1poolman1 @wireform @Lake Placid can have a look.

A heater shouldn't look like that, even after years of use. If I were called out to service it, I would not put it back into service, too much damage to the fire box, very "sooted" condition, burners clogged with refractory material, etc.

 

[tbird2340]

A heater shouldn't look like that, even after years of use. If I were called out to service it, I would not put it back into service, too much damage to the fire box, very "sooted" condition, burners clogged with refractory material, etc.

Thanks for the reply. I got the heater is 2015 so used it about 8 seasons.. Tarped it over the winter but left it outside.. Any ideas how this happens or is that about how long they last?

$2K is about my budget to replace.. I see a Raypak 150K BUT is around that much but dont' know much about them.. Any info you could offer would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[SecoSteve]

Tarping your heater traps moisture and most likely contributed to the corrosion.

 

[tbird2340]

In the winter? Why would there be moisture built up inside the heater during the closed seasons?

What is the proper way to protect the heater (sans storing it indoors) during closed seasons?

Thanks

 

[SecoSteve]

I leave mine uncovered over the winter. Moisture will build up under a cover even in cold weather.

 

[1poolman1]

In the winter? Why would there be moisture built up inside the heater during the closed seasons?

What is the proper way to protect the heater (sans storing it indoors) during closed seasons?

Thanks

As long as there is not a large amount of water falling directly on a heater, as from a roof, or trees, or sprinklers, it can be left uncovered in Winter. If there is danger of that, a light covering, a removable shed-like roof, etc. can help. Tarping a heater tight and no ventilation can cause condensation to build up in the cabinet can cause issues.
The damage to that heater looks more like a leaking heat exchanger, but hard to know without seeing it in operation.

 

[1poolman1]

Thanks for the reply. I got the heater is 2015 so used it about 8 seasons.. Tarped it over the winter but left it outside.. Any ideas how this happens or is that about how long they last?

$2K is about my budget to replace.. I see a Raypak 150K BUT is around that much but dont' know much about them.. Any info you could offer would be appreciated. Thanks

My preference would be the RayPak.
When they break, and everything does, they are easier to diagnose and repair. Even the LoNox versions have fewer electronics in them.

 

[tbird2340]

Thanks for the replies! I’ll try the raypak.