Hayward Heater IF Code

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xiownthispla

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Jul 16, 2020
7
Omaha
I finished building my pool a few weeks ago and I haven't been able to get the heater to work. Everything is brand new. It's a Hayward H350FDN. My gas company has come out and installed a bigger meter to support the 350,000 btu for it. Plumber installed new gas line with regulator.

We measure 8.5"WC on the inlet but it's impossible to measure the output since the heater fires up, we can smell gas and then shuts off right away (blower still goes). Then it cycles 5-6 times or so and spits out the IF code. I have tried cycling this way for over an hour with no luck. Also removed the manifold to clean the burners to make sure no webs were there. Tried to increase/decrease pressure on the adjustment screw as well.

So after trying all this I contacted Hayward support in hopes a tech would come out to help. They sent me a link to check my authorized repair dealers in the area and there are only a few. I've been waiting 2 weeks for the first dealer to come out after they said they would on Wednesday and they won't call me back now lol. So I have another dealer coming in 2 weeks. But is there something else I should try while I wait? I don't want to mess anything up since it's a brand new unit, but I'm willing to try any suggestions you might have. It's getting colder at night now and my 1 year is getting chilly in the pool during the day and I would to heat it up for him.

Thanks!
 
How long is your gas line run from the meter? Was the air in the gas line bled up to the union by the heater after the gas line was hooked up to insure that there is only gas in the gas line and not a gas/air mixture. If not you may have a gas/air mixture that will smell like gas, but not ignite. There should be both an inlet and outlet gas pressure tap on the gas valve so that you can both pressures with the heater running.
 
I am not sure I will have to measure when I get home, but it's probably 30-35ft line (the plumber installed it). I am also not sure about the air being bled, I wasn't home when the plumber installed the line, but I assume the plumber knows to do this? The inlet pressure is 8.5"WC, but the outlet pressure when I measure doesn't seem to change when the heater tries to ignite, no pressure change basically at 0.
 
I did most it myself so I installed the heater except for the gas line, there’s no professional pool company that was here.

I called another Hayward authorized dealer and they suggested putting a piece of tape on the intake to reduce air going in. They said they have encountered some heaters that wouldn’t ignite because of too much air. So i did and it worked great! It’s been running for a few hours now.

Is there maybe a different plate i can install with less holes? Even though the tape has solved my issue i feel like I don’t want to have tape there, would rather change that plate if there’s one with less holes for less air to go in.

Here’s a pic of the tape, little hard to notice but it’s there.
 

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A simple piece of square sheet metal with slots cut into opposing sides that could be mounted with 2 screws would allow you to adjust the amount of air intake until slightly more than the minimum blockage required to maintain the heater firing was achieved while at the same time hopefully maintaining a correct burner flame.
 
swamprat69 said:
A simple piece of square sheet metal with slots cut into opposing sides that could be mounted with 2 screws would allow you to adjust the amount of air intake until slightly more than the minimum blockage required to maintain the heater firing was achieved while at the same time hopefully maintaining a correct burner flame.
Click to expand...
That would work as well, I will have to search around for something like this maybe, thank you!
 
Before doing that, I would confirm the inlet and outlet pressures at the gas valve with the heater running as per manual on page 34, https://hayward-pool-assets.com/ass...uals/UHS-Service-Installation-011717-RevT.pdf Inlet should be between 4.5"WC and 10.5"WC and outlet should be between 1.8"WC and 2.0"WC while the unit is heating. Also while going through the manual, I noticed that the unit ships with a high altitude plate for the blower. Are you sure that the high altitude plate is not the one that is in place on the heater??
 

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I would also contact Hayward to make sure that blocking the combustion air inlet has been approved by them and is not just a fix that a dealer used to get the heater to run. They would also be able to tell you what combustion air inlet plate you have installed by size/configuration of the plate opening.
 
So we had a warm summer and didn't need the heater and I got real busy and didn't work on it... checked out the gas valve voltage and it does stay on for nearly 4 seconds. I checked the other interlocks by jumpering them with no luck. All I can think of is checking the flame tubes in the fire box but they're a pain to access... not sure what else to do
 
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