Hayward H400 IF codes!! HELP!

Re: H400 natural gas heater that was throwing the IF code

I have an 18 month old H400 natural gas heater that was throwing the IF, ignition failure error code when we started the pool last week.
The local "pro" from a large installation and maintenence company that pulls the cover for us and gets the filter up and running told us that the keypad, the controller board and the motherboard needed to be replaced. All for the low price of $650. These things are very complex he explained.....


Engineering101 - I just wanted to send a very big THANK YOU!!! I did what you described, and sure enough, there was a web in the left-most orifice. I used a pipe cleaner on clean of them out. Put it back together and the heater lit right up!
 
Re: H400 natural gas heater that was throwing the IF code

I have an 18 month old H400 natural gas heater that was throwing the IF, ignition failure error code when we started the pool last week.
The local "pro" from a large installation and maintenence company that pulls the cover for us and gets the filter up and running told us that the keypad, the controller board and the motherboard needed to be replaced. All for the low price of $650. These things are very complex he explained.

Not being one to cough up that much dough without a fight I decided to take a look at it.

From the Hayward wiring diagram, It could be one of 4 things: igniter, flame sensor, low gas pressure or the control board

Time for some basic troubleshooting:

1. Is the heater behaving as it is described in the Hayward manual before displaying the IF? Yes it ran though 3 cycles 30 seconds apart before displaying the IF. The blower was operating and I could briefly smell gas as the blower cleared it out between cycles.

2. Is the igniter working? After running through one cycle and displaying the IF, I opened the circuit breaker and removed the igniter; it was still very hot to the touch. I reinstalled it.
Removing the top cover form the H400 to clean out leaves & small twigs that had accumulated I could see the heater core. I closed the circuit breaker to watch the ignition sequence through the heater core BEING CAREFUL NOT TO PUT MY FACE DIRECTLY OVER THE OPEN COVER, I could see the igniter glowing cherry red as it went through the 3 cycles. Yes the igniter was working but I could not see any open flames.

3. Is the flame sensor working? With the breaker open, I removed the flame sensor cleaned up some built up scale by gently using some 600 grit sandpaper. Checked the connection at the controller board, it looked good. At this point I was not sure if the flame sensor was working. I reinstalled it.

4. Is there enough gas pressure? I could get a whiff of gas during the ignition sequence but I had no idea if the pressure was correct or if the orifices were obstructed. I turned off the power and the main gas valve outside the unit. Disconnecting the gas pipe I removed the 4 screws that hold the orifice manifold in place. It came out easily.

Upon inspection, the orifice that is adjacent to the igniter was blocked with a spider web. See the attached pics. The orifice on the left is clear and the one on the right is blocked. I removed the orifice with a 7/16 wrench and cleaned it out with a bamboo skewer.

I reassembled everything, turned the gas on and checked all the joints for leaks with soapy water. Once I was satisfied that there were no gas leaks I closed the circuit breaker and the unit fired right up.

If you are not comfortable with working on gas lines get a plumber or a competent pool tech that you trust to check the gas orifices.

I checked my orifices and they're all clear. I reassembled and have the same problem. I can hear it ignite (it starts rumbling lIke normal), but within five seconds the flame goes out. My unit has one season under its belt.... these hayward units have been nothing but trouble for me. I guess it could be a flame sensor?
 
This should be a new thread.

Which model do you have? You say "one season under its belt" does this mean it's only one year old?

Honest question: Why would this need to be under a new thread? It's not the same size, but same manufacturer and same error code, same symptoms.

Update on my symptoms: I checked the orifices and everything as fine, and I was just going to re-assemble the heater and come back to it later. While doing so, I decided to mess with the gas pressure regulator. Basically all I did was unscrew it some (which should decrease pressure), and try to start it again. That didn't work, so I put it back where it was (which was as tight as I could get it--not sure if it comes from the factory like that or not). I finished the heater re-assembly and tried it one last time, and it worked. I left it lit for 30 minutes, and then I turned it off. I came back a few hours later, and it didn't work--did the same thing as before. Cycled on, flame lit, and then went out within five seconds. Did it 3 times then gave the IF code. So, I left it and then before bed I went out to turn the pump off--and I couldn't help it. I checked one more time. And this time it worked. So now the problem is intermittent, and I'm not sure what I changed to make it start occasionally working...

The unit might be 18 months old. I bought it from a guy that does builds that had bought one for his own home only to find out it was going to be $5k to get a gas line run to his house. It was still in the original box and crating and had the plastic wrap around it. It ran like a dream last year.
 
Honest question: Why would this need to be under a new thread? It's not the same size, but same manufacturer and same error code, same symptoms.

We prefer that people start a new thread for their questions because there are always different variables for each pool/situation and answering two, or five, different sets of questions in the same thread quickly gets very confusing, especially for the person asking the original question.
 
Honest question: Why would this need to be under a new thread? It's not the same size, but same manufacturer and same error code, same symptoms.

The original thread is a bit old and hasn't been used in a while. Also, many times people see an old thread and do not pay much attention to it as it is old. Just my opinion.

Update on my symptoms: I checked the orifices and everything as fine, and I was just going to re-assemble the heater and come back to it later. While doing so, I decided to mess with the gas pressure regulator. Basically all I did was unscrew it some (which should decrease pressure), and try to start it again. That didn't work, so I put it back where it was (which was as tight as I could get it--not sure if it comes from the factory like that or not). I finished the heater re-assembly and tried it one last time, and it worked. I left it lit for 30 minutes, and then I turned it off. I came back a few hours later, and it didn't work--did the same thing as before. Cycled on, flame lit, and then went out within five seconds. Did it 3 times then gave the IF code. So, I left it and then before bed I went out to turn the pump off--and I couldn't help it. I checked one more time. And this time it worked. So now the problem is intermittent, and I'm not sure what I changed to make it start occasionally working...

The unit might be 18 months old. I bought it from a guy that does builds that had bought one for his own home only to find out it was going to be $5k to get a gas line run to his house. It was still in the original box and crating and had the plastic wrap around it. It ran like a dream last year.

Not sure why you would have messed with the gas valve like that. Your issue has nothing to do with that most likely especially if it has worked fine in the past.

Have you checked/cleaned the flame sensor? As for the orifices, on these units they rarely get clogged because of how they are "sealed" into the unit of sorts. Not that it can't happen but rare.
 
Basically all I did was unscrew it some (which should decrease pressure), and try to start it again. That didn't work, so I put it back where it was (which was as tight as I could get it--not sure if it comes from the factory like that or not).

I think all you did was loosen the cap that covers the actual adjusting screw, then re tightened the cap. The gas adjuster is usually set to somewhere in the middle of it's adjustment, not up against one end of its adjustment. So you (probably) didn't make an adjustment. As stated above, you really shouldn't adjust without a meter connected anyway.

It is good to start a new thread if you want help, Those of us (helpers) that see an old dated thread, may pass over it.
 
Re: H400 natural gas heater that was throwing the IF code

Do you have a picture of where to locate the gas orifice on the heater? I am a novice when it comes to this.

Thanks!


I have an 18 month old H400 natural gas heater that was throwing the IF, ignition failure error code when we started the pool last week.
The local "pro" from a large installation and maintenence company that pulls the cover for us and gets the filter up and running told us that the keypad, the controller board and the motherboard needed to be replaced. All for the low price of $650. These things are very complex he explained.

Not being one to cough up that much dough without a fight I decided to take a look at it.

From the Hayward wiring diagram, It could be one of 4 things: igniter, flame sensor, low gas pressure or the control board

Time for some basic troubleshooting:

1. Is the heater behaving as it is described in the Hayward manual before displaying the IF? Yes it ran though 3 cycles 30 seconds apart before displaying the IF. The blower was operating and I could briefly smell gas as the blower cleared it out between cycles.

2. Is the igniter working? After running through one cycle and displaying the IF, I opened the circuit breaker and removed the igniter; it was still very hot to the touch. I reinstalled it.
Removing the top cover form the H400 to clean out leaves & small twigs that had accumulated I could see the heater core. I closed the circuit breaker to watch the ignition sequence through the heater core BEING CAREFUL NOT TO PUT MY FACE DIRECTLY OVER THE OPEN COVER, I could see the igniter glowing cherry red as it went through the 3 cycles. Yes the igniter was working but I could not see any open flames.

3. Is the flame sensor working? With the breaker open, I removed the flame sensor cleaned up some built up scale by gently using some 600 grit sandpaper. Checked the connection at the controller board, it looked good. At this point I was not sure if the flame sensor was working. I reinstalled it.

4. Is there enough gas pressure? I could get a whiff of gas during the ignition sequence but I had no idea if the pressure was correct or if the orifices were obstructed. I turned off the power and the main gas valve outside the unit. Disconnecting the gas pipe I removed the 4 screws that hold the orifice manifold in place. It came out easily.

Upon inspection, the orifice that is adjacent to the igniter was blocked with a spider web. See the attached pics. The orifice on the left is clear and the one on the right is blocked. I removed the orifice with a 7/16 wrench and cleaned it out with a bamboo skewer.

I reassembled everything, turned the gas on and checked all the joints for leaks with soapy water. Once I was satisfied that there were no gas leaks I closed the circuit breaker and the unit fired right up.

If you are not comfortable with working on gas lines get a plumber or a competent pool tech that you trust to check the gas orifices.
 
Re: H400 natural gas heater that was throwing the IF code

Do you have a picture of where to locate the gas orifice on the heater? I am a novice when it comes to this.

Thanks!

Please start a new new message not under this one and explain what issues you are having so your issue can be fully evaluated and hopefully we can answer your questions.
 

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H400 natural gas heater that was throwing the IF code

I have an 18 month old H400 natural gas heater that was throwing the IF, ignition failure error code when we started the pool last week.
The local "pro" from a large installation and maintenence company that pulls the cover for us and gets the filter up and running told us that the keypad, the controller board and the motherboard needed to be replaced. All for the low price of $650. These things are very complex he explained.

Not being one to cough up that much dough without a fight I decided to take a look at it.

From the Hayward wiring diagram, It could be one of 4 things: igniter, flame sensor, low gas pressure or the control board

Time for some basic troubleshooting:

1. Is the heater behaving as it is described in the Hayward manual before displaying the IF? Yes it ran though 3 cycles 30 seconds apart before displaying the IF. The blower was operating and I could briefly smell gas as the blower cleared it out between cycles.

2. Is the igniter working? After running through one cycle and displaying the IF, I opened the circuit breaker and removed the igniter; it was still very hot to the touch. I reinstalled it.
Removing the top cover form the H400 to clean out leaves & small twigs that had accumulated I could see the heater core. I closed the circuit breaker to watch the ignition sequence through the heater core BEING CAREFUL NOT TO PUT MY FACE DIRECTLY OVER THE OPEN COVER, I could see the igniter glowing cherry red as it went through the 3 cycles. Yes the igniter was working but I could not see any open flames.

3. Is the flame sensor working? With the breaker open, I removed the flame sensor cleaned up some built up scale by gently using some 600 grit sandpaper. Checked the connection at the controller board, it looked good. At this point I was not sure if the flame sensor was working. I reinstalled it.

4. Is there enough gas pressure? I could get a whiff of gas during the ignition sequence but I had no idea if the pressure was correct or if the orifices were obstructed. I turned off the power and the main gas valve outside the unit. Disconnecting the gas pipe I removed the 4 screws that hold the orifice manifold in place. It came out easily.

Upon inspection, the orifice that is adjacent to the igniter was blocked with a spider web. See the attached pics. The orifice on the left is clear and the one on the right is blocked. I removed the orifice with a 7/16 wrench and cleaned it out with a bamboo skewer.

I reassembled everything, turned the gas on and checked all the joints for leaks with soapy water. Once I was satisfied that there were no gas leaks I closed the circuit breaker and the unit fired right up.

If you are not comfortable with working on gas lines get a plumber or a competent pool tech that you trust to check the gas orifices.
Thank you for sharing this. 2nd season with heater and symptoms just as you described. Spider web at nozzle by flame sensor!!! Used a fine wire to poke inside each nozzle and when I cleaned the one at the flame sensor the wire came out covered in white spider web. Reassembled and it works fine!
 
H400 natural gas heater that was throwing the IF code

I have an 18 month old H400 natural gas heater that was throwing the IF, ignition failure error code when we started the pool last week.
The local "pro" from a large installation and maintenence company that pulls the cover for us and gets the filter up and running told us that the keypad, the controller board and the motherboard needed to be replaced. All for the low price of $650. These things are very complex he explained.

Not being one to cough up that much dough without a fight I decided to take a look at it.

From the Hayward wiring diagram, It could be one of 4 things: igniter, flame sensor, low gas pressure or the control board

Time for some basic troubleshooting:

1. Is the heater behaving as it is described in the Hayward manual before displaying the IF? Yes it ran though 3 cycles 30 seconds apart before displaying the IF. The blower was operating and I could briefly smell gas as the blower cleared it out between cycles.

2. Is the igniter working? After running through one cycle and displaying the IF, I opened the circuit breaker and removed the igniter; it was still very hot to the touch. I reinstalled it.
Removing the top cover form the H400 to clean out leaves & small twigs that had accumulated I could see the heater core. I closed the circuit breaker to watch the ignition sequence through the heater core BEING CAREFUL NOT TO PUT MY FACE DIRECTLY OVER THE OPEN COVER, I could see the igniter glowing cherry red as it went through the 3 cycles. Yes the igniter was working but I could not see any open flames.

3. Is the flame sensor working? With the breaker open, I removed the flame sensor cleaned up some built up scale by gently using some 600 grit sandpaper. Checked the connection at the controller board, it looked good. At this point I was not sure if the flame sensor was working. I reinstalled it.

4. Is there enough gas pressure? I could get a whiff of gas during the ignition sequence but I had no idea if the pressure was correct or if the orifices were obstructed. I turned off the power and the main gas valve outside the unit. Disconnecting the gas pipe I removed the 4 screws that hold the orifice manifold in place. It came out easily.

Upon inspection, the orifice that is adjacent to the igniter was blocked with a spider web. See the attached pics. The orifice on the left is clear and the one on the right is blocked. I removed the orifice with a 7/16 wrench and cleaned it out with a bamboo skewer.

I reassembled everything, turned the gas on and checked all the joints for leaks with soapy water. Once I was satisfied that there were no gas leaks I closed the circuit breaker and the unit fired right up.

If you are not comfortable with working on gas lines get a plumber or a competent pool tech that you trust to check the gas orifices.
Great post. This was my problem exactly. Thanks.
 
H400 natural gas heater that was throwing the IF code

I have an 18 month old H400 natural gas heater that was throwing the IF, ignition failure error code when we started the pool last week.
The local "pro" from a large installation and maintenence company that pulls the cover for us and gets the filter up and running told us that the keypad, the controller board and the motherboard needed to be replaced. All for the low price of $650. These things are very complex he explained.

Not being one to cough up that much dough without a fight I decided to take a look at it.

From the Hayward wiring diagram, It could be one of 4 things: igniter, flame sensor, low gas pressure or the control board

Time for some basic troubleshooting:

1. Is the heater behaving as it is described in the Hayward manual before displaying the IF? Yes it ran though 3 cycles 30 seconds apart before displaying the IF. The blower was operating and I could briefly smell gas as the blower cleared it out between cycles.

2. Is the igniter working? After running through one cycle and displaying the IF, I opened the circuit breaker and removed the igniter; it was still very hot to the touch. I reinstalled it.
Removing the top cover form the H400 to clean out leaves & small twigs that had accumulated I could see the heater core. I closed the circuit breaker to watch the ignition sequence through the heater core BEING CAREFUL NOT TO PUT MY FACE DIRECTLY OVER THE OPEN COVER, I could see the igniter glowing cherry red as it went through the 3 cycles. Yes the igniter was working but I could not see any open flames.

3. Is the flame sensor working? With the breaker open, I removed the flame sensor cleaned up some built up scale by gently using some 600 grit sandpaper. Checked the connection at the controller board, it looked good. At this point I was not sure if the flame sensor was working. I reinstalled it.

4. Is there enough gas pressure? I could get a whiff of gas during the ignition sequence but I had no idea if the pressure was correct or if the orifices were obstructed. I turned off the power and the main gas valve outside the unit. Disconnecting the gas pipe I removed the 4 screws that hold the orifice manifold in place. It came out easily.

Upon inspection, the orifice that is adjacent to the igniter was blocked with a spider web. See the attached pics. The orifice on the left is clear and the one on the right is blocked. I removed the orifice with a 7/16 wrench and cleaned it out with a bamboo skewer.

I reassembled everything, turned the gas on and checked all the joints for leaks with soapy water. Once I was satisfied that there were no gas leaks I closed the circuit breaker and the unit fired right up.

If you are not comfortable with working on gas lines get a plumber or a competent pool tech that you trust to check the gas orifices.
Old thread but sounds like my issue..I pulled the tube back and blew out the burners but will check each orifice now!
 
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