Hayward H150 Heater - Clicking/Popping Sounds
- Thread starter neeber34
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,693
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That 90 degree elbow into the pump suction is not goof for water flow.
Lots in your plumbing is inefficient for good flow.
Show me the heater water connections.
I think you have a collapsed flex hose somewhere. Maybe where the hoses go behind the heater.
Lots in your plumbing is inefficient for good flow.
Show me the heater water connections.
I think you have a collapsed flex hose somewhere. Maybe where the hoses go behind the heater.
Attachments
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,693
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Those 90's into the heater are also not good for flow.
I would bet hard piping your equipment using 2" Schedule 40 PVC will fix your flow problem.
I would bet hard piping your equipment using 2" Schedule 40 PVC will fix your flow problem.
Ok, I will look into that.
The thing I'm struggling to understand, is it worked fine for the last 2 years, and for the first day of operation so far this spring.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,693
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,693
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
It's up to you.
For $150 the flowvis may give us some more data. It may confirm your actual flow is less then the heater requires. Then you will need to dig into your plumbing.
Your problem is either external to your heater in your plumbing or internal to your heater. It takes someone hands on trying different things. I might disconnect various pieces of your flex hose and visually examine it on the inside. I might run your pump and see the amount of water going in or out of your filter or into the heater.
Maybe the heater needs to be disassembled and the internals examined.
If you are not capable of digging into your equipment then you need to find someone locally.
Dumb question - to check the water going into the heater - disconnect the in line to the heater and turn the pump on?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,693
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You could and things will get awful wet if you don't have someplace to point the line to.
Your heater needs 40-50GPM. Unless you know what 50 GPM looks like versus 20 GPM I don't know what it would tell you.
Ok thanks.
Tomorrow I'll pull some lines off and take a look to see if anything looks pinched.
I spent some time this weekend on this.
I disconnected every line, blew them out, cleaned everything, put it all back together.
Now I can't get air out of my lines. I constantly have bubbles through my jet.
I've back washed, refilled the lines and pump, and no matter what, I've still got air.
I don't have water leaking anywhere.
Any ideas why? Or how to solve it?
I'm trying to make sure I don't have any flow issues.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,693
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You have a suction side air leak.
Water does not leak out from the suction side. Air is pulled in.
Check the connections and hose going into the pump.
Water does not leak out from the suction side. Air is pulled in.
Check the connections and hose going into the pump.
Pulled all my connections again, re-wrapped t-tape everywhere it could use it. Solved the air problem, running with great flow. Good suction in the skimmer and lots of power at the jet.
Still having the heater issue. Let it run for about 5 minutes, no error codes, ran and got hot.
Noticed the lines from the heater 'pulsing' while it ran.
Video of that attached.
Waiting on a call back from the gas fitter, still trying to find it myself if I can.
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