We have a Hayward/Goldline Aqua Logic AQL-PS-8 Control Board. Our main pump will turn on with the circuit breaker, but it cannot turn off or on again using the builtin timer. The other pumps, such as the waterfall and pool wall fountain pumps do work by the timer. We recently replaced the C3 supercapacitor on the PCB. It worked at first, but it won't operate automatically. We are thinking of replacing the U2 real time clock chip and the X2 crystal, but we're afraid of damaging the board completely. Anybody with experience changing out the U2 or X2, or have ideas of what would cause the timer to not work the main pump while still controlling the other pumps?
Hayward/Goldline Aqua Logic AQL-PS-8 Not Working Pump Timer
- Thread starter Jomaren
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,484
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
It might be a bad relay. Check for 24 volts dc going to the relay coil.
There should be 24 volts dc to the relay coil when the pump should be on and no voltage to the relay coil when the pump should be off.
If the pump stays powered when there is no voltage to the relay coil, the relay is stuck closed and needs to be replaced.
www.digikey.com
There should be 24 volts dc to the relay coil when the pump should be on and no voltage to the relay coil when the pump should be off.
If the pump stays powered when there is no voltage to the relay coil, the relay is stuck closed and needs to be replaced.
G7L-2A-BUBJ-CB DC24 Omron Electronics Inc-EMC Div | Relays | DigiKey
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I would not pull off the RTC or the crystal yet... you said some pumps work with "the timer" so it sounds like that bit is good. But please clarify - by "timer" do you mean the automation board?
I'm not familiar with Hayward boards (only seen them in photos), but I'm sure they're similar to the Pentair equipment in that there is some sort of relay "driver" that takes a signal from the microcontroller and energizes the relay coil. The relay drivers often fail and I'm wondering if that's what's gone wrong with your board.
So if you don't see 24 vdc for the relay coil - as suggested in Jame's tests above - it's likely to be a dead driver. Please post a picture of your board, but in the one I see online there appear to be two 18 pin chips to the right of the onboard Omron relays... it's hard to read the number because of the conformal coating on the board but it looks like they are MIC 5841 - which are Micrel Latched Drivers, used to power relays. Here's a link to the spec sheet:
Let me know if those are not the correct driver chips!
Tom
I'm not familiar with Hayward boards (only seen them in photos), but I'm sure they're similar to the Pentair equipment in that there is some sort of relay "driver" that takes a signal from the microcontroller and energizes the relay coil. The relay drivers often fail and I'm wondering if that's what's gone wrong with your board.
So if you don't see 24 vdc for the relay coil - as suggested in Jame's tests above - it's likely to be a dead driver. Please post a picture of your board, but in the one I see online there appear to be two 18 pin chips to the right of the onboard Omron relays... it's hard to read the number because of the conformal coating on the board but it looks like they are MIC 5841 - which are Micrel Latched Drivers, used to power relays. Here's a link to the spec sheet:
Let me know if those are not the correct driver chips!
Tom
Since it won't turn off, it's probably a stuck relay. If the coil voltage turns off, but the relay does not open, the relay is stuck.
If the coil voltage won't turn off, then it's a control board problem.
If you turn off power to the whole system, the relay should open, which will be visible by the test button coming out. See test button operating in this video.
If the coil voltage won't turn off, then it's a control board problem.
If you turn off power to the whole system, the relay should open, which will be visible by the test button coming out. See test button operating in this video.
Sorry about that blank message! I will check out the above suggestions when I get home tonight. Here are photos of my PCB model and the relay area for my control panel (I got photos off the internet). To clarify, I did mean my automation board when referring to my timer above. The driver part that Ogdento suggested is correct. Thanks for all your help everyone and I will post an update tonight. I think I will probably end up replacing both the relay and the driver parts.
Hey no worries! It's definitely worth testing the relay and driver before replacing anything, but it sounds like you've got it well under control.
The output stage of the driver (as well as the uln2803 from the pentair boards) is basically two transistors and they can fail open or short (if you ever have trouble sleeping, google "darlington pair")
-Tom
The output stage of the driver (as well as the uln2803 from the pentair boards) is basically two transistors and they can fail open or short (if you ever have trouble sleeping, google "darlington pair")
-Tom
There was 24 voltage for the relay coil when on, and zero when off (but the pump does not turn off), so it sounds like it is just the relay. Thank you everyone!!
Ok, the link that I provided is the best price.
You can get a GLX-RELAY, but it's the exact same thing for up to $80 vs $15 for the one from digikey.
You can get a GLX-RELAY, but it's the exact same thing for up to $80 vs $15 for the one from digikey.
hey that's awesome... please let us know when you're up and running again!